bus

Well, I got some free money just laying around so I was wondering what U guys think I should buy to make my car a bit quicker. My FD is still stock, besides the exhaust and koyo radiator. I will take any opinions.
THNX-

XSTransAm

put it in the bank for when your engine blows.

Scrapiron7

I agree!

SlingShotRX7

Get a :

HKS air intake
Greddy Stock Mount Intercooler
Bonez Stainless Steel Downpipe

You in luck I am selling all that.
Ill sell you all 3 for 1k. SHIPPED..

then youll have 3 K for exhaust and Radiator, and
aluminum AST, and youll have all the reliability Mods done.

oh yea don't forget to do the SILICONE Hose JOB.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

finish all the reliability mods first

then put the rest in the bank for an engine rebuild

if you have enough left over, then do the the above

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

listen to the veterans....save it for an engine

dexmex88

engine, you will need it, I wish I had the 4K for my blown one right now.

SlingShotRX7

Oh yea.. Buy my stuff and get yourself a Midpipe
and APEX PFC and get a tune. And youll be in the 12's.

Don't let these guys scare you..

I know you don't want your FD to be a DOG..

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

no offense but who are you gonna listen to? people who have well over 1000 posts under their belt and have been here for a while, or a guy with 178 who just wants to make some money off of you?

SVT Squasher

Put it in the bank, save another 6k and do the LS1/T56 convertion. You will get longer life out of the motor with better gas milage (we all need that right now).

Realy, even thou Im doing the conversion. You should spend it on a new motor no mater what it is. If you want to keep the rotory I would start building a nice street port motor and have it sitting there while you do the other mods to you car that will compliment the new motor. That way if you blow yours you have a replacement right there. Who knows you could blow a O-ring tomarrow.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

^^jeez, now im scared..

so far, no engine problems (knock on wood)..

kinda funny to be scared everytime you start your 7, you never know whats gonna happen next..LOL

XSTransAm

for the price of the ls1 conversion you could buy 3 rotarys. If you get 50k miles each engine (fairly low average) then you equal the cost of the v8 which will last about 150k miles.

so its about the same cost, the question is then do you want your one out of a billion origonality, or do you want a corvette that looks like an rx7.

I like the ls1's and seeing a few ls1 rx7s is cool and all, but it ruins the point of the car. If i wanted an ls1 i would have bought a vette or a transam.

fastcarfreak

I will have to disagree about putting it all away for a new motor. You want to make your car faster so you will be in the same boat if you blow your motor and get a new one in there. If i were you, before anything else, get a Apexi Power FC, This way if you do blow your motor, you can buy a ported motor instead of a stock ported one. A ported motor will not be able to safely run off of the stock computer. After the computer, i would go with a downpipe and intake. Then the rest of the reliability mods. After this, you should still have a big chunk of change that you definately should now save for when you are gonna want/need that ported motor that allows you to go a lot faster. Good luck with everything. If you are afraid that everytime you hit the gas in these cars your gonna blow a motor, then you just like the rest of the rotor hating world. Also you will never truly enjoy your car if you have that thought of it breaking as soon as you hit the gas. On the other hand, dont go and beat the **** out of your car and keep it well maintained.

Adam

JaNusSolSumnus

Let me be the first to say postcount does not mean a DAMN thing. While the guy peddling his wares off to you is a little detouring I wouldnt go and be afraid of your car because the 'vetarens' all blow their motors.

Many are running high milage engines, stock or otherwise with no issues at all. I'm turning 61k right now while many of the 'vets' are running their 3rd motors and only get about 30k out of each... I consider that an error in driving or tuning habits... I know several with over 100k on their origanal engines.

If you were to save the money I'd say only for any emergancy, not just incase the motor goes.... but if you wanted to spend it, I'd say get the AST, downpipe +midpipe (RX7store has a great deal on the combo), boost/water temp gauges and Apexi PFC. That will be about $1500 spent, yield another $400-1000 for good tuning and you still have atleast another $1500 to spend elsewhere.

Just out of curiosity, how many miles does your FD have rigt now?

~Kris

bus

My Fd is about to break the 70k mile mark. Also I'm in no hurry to spend my money, I was just asking for opinions. Plus I want to thank everyone who has posted in my thread, keep them opinions coming.

RecKleSs

1. Compression test. This will allow you to see how healthy your engine is, and hopefully you will not need a rebuild. Cost $50.
2. Replace your air separator tank. The OEM AST is a POS and can cause an engine fire! Cost $150. www.pettitracing.com
3. Fan Mod. One of the best mods to reduce temps. Cost $50.
4. Stainless Steel Downpipe. Outstanding mod for reliability and power. Cost $250-300. Doesn't include labor.
5. Tie-wrap. Cost I think around $500. I had this mod done about 7 years ago.
6. Short shifter. OEM is a POS. I have Pettit's and it's great. The B&M is also good. Cost $200-300.
7. Intake. Be careful which one you pick, some will not work with an aftermarket IC. Cost $200-500.
8. ECU. Power FC or Pettit Racing. If you don't have a good tuner, go with Pettit's ECU. Cost $1,300 PFC and $800 Pettit's.
9. Upgrade fuel pump. Cost $300.
10. Upgrade secondary injectors to 1300cc. Cost $300.

This comes out to $2,900. This doesn't include labor, except for steps 1, 3, and 5. You should be able to complete the task on your own, it's pretty simple. I would take the downpipe to a shop, because it can be a PITA.

10. IC. OEM is a POS! Stock mount locations can cause a lot of heat soak. I prefer front mounts or V-mounts. Cost $1300-2300. www.rotaryextreme.com

- I'm assuming that the car is in mint condition and all the basic maintenance have been performed. For example, new NGK wires, plugs, and all your fluids has been changed.
- I forgot to add a boost gauge, you will not need one if you go with the PFC. I have the PFC and have a $300 boost gauge, I find it very useful. It's your choice, and most prefer to have both.
- Tires. Extremely important and usually overlooked. Cost $600-1000.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=294691 Very useful link and should be a sticky.

bus

Reckless thnx 4 all the helpful info, also thnx for the link, thnx to everbody .

Scrapiron7

Yup. You know more than the rest of the forum who have owned their cars for years..

FD3RotorTurbo

iTrader: (1)

Buy a Power FC no questions asked!!!

RedRx00

i dont know about anyone else on here, but most of the time while im reading threads i always look at each persons post count. it kinda gives you an idea of how long they've been around and its really easy to say but the longer you've been around the more your gonna know. im not sucking up to these guys with over a thousand posts, im just sayin i would take their word over someone with a hundred or two. But hey on here its just about getting what you need to know, and the other thing is its always gonna be YOUR car so you can do whatever the hell you want to it(and just hope it runs,LOL) but just puttin in my two sense and gettin my post count up(yea right long way away from four digits,haha)

BicuspiD

???????

RecKleSs

I deleted my AST. Instead of deleting the AST you can replace it with an aftermarket product, which will not break. This link should work http://www.pettitracing.com/Frameset.html

Important...Do not get the Power FC if you can't trust a tuner around your area who has a lot of knowledge with the unit. It is possible to get Steve Kan to fly to your area, however, you need a few people that are willing to pay for his skills.

The link sucks. Go to the above link and click on maintenance & lubricants.

MrRx

iTrader: (1)

Just to toss it up a bit, If you drive the car nicely it will treat your nicely....for example my father's car, he raced it once or twice total, always let it cool down everywhere he stops, changes the oil at the normal times. He got 153k out of his motor before it blew, and This is the stock motor that came in the car from mazda. Dont belive me call up Mutasim jaloudi at Mzmperformance.com, 512-837-6200....now my car on the other hand which was raced before i owned it, only got 78k....im now siting at 103k with no powerloss....I recently Dynoed at 240hp, with minor mode and no tuning....so before you get all worried abuot your engine blowing up, remember if your nice to it, it will be nice to you.

JaNusSolSumnus

I'm not saying I'm an expert by any means, but many of you have no trouble touting it... I was mearly pointing out the fact that you all act as if you know all and say that the rotary IS DOOMED after 50k when many have more than double the miles on their orignal motors.

~Kris

XSTransAm

its possible to get 100k out of an engine. however somtimes we arent all that lucky.. my car has 68000 miles on it and im putting in the 3rd engine.

first engine was replaced before i got the car so i dont know why it blew

this one went cause my brother took the car out while i was away and boosted it without letting it warm up.

**** just happens sometimes, i speak from experience when i say dont count on the engine not blowing.

also if you search you will find that the average life span of turbo rotarys is about 75k. ive seen numbers as low as 2k miles and as high as 140k miles.

a pfc/dp would be a good first mod provided you have somone to tune it. However i would have at least half the amount of a rebuild in the bank in case it comes up. just so your not totally screwed when it does like me.