I dun goofed
06-08-20, 10:01 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I dun goofed
Alright so i come here to repent and seek guidance. My brother had to travel overseas for work, and he asked me to watch his place. As a incentive i get to drive his Rflex-7. Nothing too crazy, stock turbos, cat delete, tune, fuel upgrade. I come from the world of pistons and dont know much about rotors. So i hop into the flex mobile and crank it. Brap brap brap it went. Drove it for a bit, gave some sick head nods to other car enthusiasts. Had my fun and decided to head back. When nearing his house, the oil pressure light comes on just as im about to pull into the garage. Like a good brother i tried to do him another solid, and refill his oil and tell him about it when im able to speak to him again (he's overseas). Checked the dip stick, and yep, a little low. Found a quart of oil. Huh, interesting name, Idemitsu. Never heard of it, but its probably some expensive ****. Filled it with the quart until im able to buy some more the next day. Next day comes, hop into the Rflex-7, but its acting different. After letting it warm up for a good 5 minutes, i headed for the auto store, except its also acting a bit different when i go to drive it. Backfires almost every time i give it gas, **** load of smoke when i let off the gas as well. I noped outta the idea of continuing to drive it, and headed back to his garage. I start googling my *** off. Nada. I grab the empty bottle of oil premix and i realized i dun goofed after looking up Idemitsu. I drain the oil, and left it draining until nothing else was coming out of it, also replaced the oil filter. But it still has the same symptoms. How badly fucked is this scenario? Anything else i can try to fix my **** up? And yes i will own up to my mistake and tell my brother about this
06-09-20, 12:13 AM
#3
Ohhh nooooo, drain and maybe try to flush it? Chances are the premix was definitely ******* with the oil. Sounds like you replaced it once, cycle it through by idling and replace the oil again and hopefully most of it gets drained out of the system. At the least you got to flush out that **** from the system, it's most likely got an oil cooler than holds some oil too and probably mixed into there. Once that **** is chased out with some 20w-50 or whatever your brother uses it'll stop throwing a hissy fit best case. I figure you already know what worse case is... Premix might be too thin and is working it ways past the seals and causing smoke with the lovely heat the FD puts out. Definitely flush that **** out. You didn't push it did you? If your lucky the bearings survived because you didn't push the motor and once you get all that crap out your golden.
06-09-20, 12:13 AM
#4
Putting a little premix in the oil wouldn’t royally screw the engine most likely. It’s not smart, but I’m sure it’s fine. Just drain it and refill it. On the firewall next to the throttle body is a little black sensor (MAP sensor). If the vacuum hose fell off the bottom of it the car will run like butt toots. Make sure it’s hooked up. No CEL’s?
Matt
Matt
06-09-20, 12:17 AM
#5
That light in the oil pressure gauge is not an oil pressure light. It's a low oil level light, there's a level sensor in the oil pan. If it came on the oil level was very low. I can't think why low oil level would make the car backfire, but maybe you're using that word to describe something different than what I would call a backfire. How did the old oil look when you drained it? Were there any sparkly metal bits in it? Did it smell strongly of gasoline? Did it smell burnt?
Time to search and learn how to do a compression test on a rotary engine. Be careful not to mix up the spark plug wires if you do it, swapping the front & rear trailing (top) plugs can cause problems for sure.
Time to search and learn how to do a compression test on a rotary engine. Be careful not to mix up the spark plug wires if you do it, swapping the front & rear trailing (top) plugs can cause problems for sure.
06-09-20, 12:19 AM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
After i added the premix like an idiot and the symptoms started showing when I was driving, I didn't do any pulls. After checking this forum for the recommended oil, I changed the oil out and put in some 20-50. I'll do another oil change or two again, and hopefully the smoking and backfiring will stop. Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated
06-09-20, 12:22 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Putting a little premix in the oil wouldn’t royally screw the engine most likely. It’s not smart, but I’m sure it’s fine. Just drain it and refill it. On the firewall next to the throttle body is a little black sensor (MAP sensor). If the vacuum hose fell off the bottom of it the car will run like butt toots. Make sure it’s hooked up. No CEL’s?
Matt
Matt
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06-09-20, 12:29 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
That light in the oil pressure gauge is not an oil pressure light. It's a low oil level light, there's a level sensor in the oil pan. If it came on the oil level was very low. I can't think why low oil level would make the car backfire, but maybe you're using that word to describe something different than what I would call a backfire. How did the old oil look when you drained it? Were there any sparkly metal bits in it? Did it smell strongly of gasoline? Did it smell burnt?
Time to search and learn how to do a compression test on a rotary engine. Be careful not to mix up the spark plug wires if you do it, swapping the front & rear trailing (top) plugs can cause problems for sure.
Time to search and learn how to do a compression test on a rotary engine. Be careful not to mix up the spark plug wires if you do it, swapping the front & rear trailing (top) plugs can cause problems for sure.
06-09-20, 02:15 AM
#9
Gasoline smell is fairly normal rotaries love to wreck the oil. My car burbles but not necessarily backfires/smokes. If you get into it and boost a little then let off some cars will give you a little burble/flame shenanigans if it's tuned for it. A bad connection on your MAP sensor could mess with it too. make sure the vac hose isn't split/rock hard.
06-09-20, 03:04 AM
#10
A little bit of 2t in the engine oil wouldnt have hurt it. The gasolene smell is normal and why we should change oil often.
as to why it started running rough, i think its a coincidence. Check your Maf sensor, sparkplugs, etc. If the thing was that low on oil i would be looking into why that was too.
as to why it started running rough, i think its a coincidence. Check your Maf sensor, sparkplugs, etc. If the thing was that low on oil i would be looking into why that was too.
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JuSanBee (06-09-20)
06-09-20, 02:15 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok so update on where i am at with all of this currently:
1. drained and replaced oil
2. pulled and cleaned 2 of the spark plugs (ones closest to throttle body). It wasnt too badly caked. It looks like my brother replaced it fairly recent from the looks of it. Couldnt get to the other 2 plugs yet
3. let car idle after oil change so good oil can circulate throughout
More fuckery:
1. Car now eventually dies now after idling for a bit. Low battery light flickers on and off before dying
2. Pulled and replaced battery thinking it was the battery. Also pulled a back muscle in the process
3. Found what looks to be an oil leak?
Heres a video of it idling and smoking for a bit before it died, and also the leak after taking off the under tray cover. https://imgur.com/a/HyUhpyz. From the video, can someone help me identify where the leak is coming from? Sorry for the potato quality
1. drained and replaced oil
2. pulled and cleaned 2 of the spark plugs (ones closest to throttle body). It wasnt too badly caked. It looks like my brother replaced it fairly recent from the looks of it. Couldnt get to the other 2 plugs yet
3. let car idle after oil change so good oil can circulate throughout
More fuckery:
1. Car now eventually dies now after idling for a bit. Low battery light flickers on and off before dying
2. Pulled and replaced battery thinking it was the battery. Also pulled a back muscle in the process
3. Found what looks to be an oil leak?
Heres a video of it idling and smoking for a bit before it died, and also the leak after taking off the under tray cover. https://imgur.com/a/HyUhpyz. From the video, can someone help me identify where the leak is coming from? Sorry for the potato quality
06-09-20, 09:49 PM
#12
Are you positive it’s an oil leak and not coolant? This turbo coolant line looks like it’s leaking or something above it is and it’s trickling down. Those hoses are prone to busting since they’re really close to the turbos and they bake.
Other than that it’s kind of tough to see anything else. Looks like the turbos are non sequential? Looked like an actuator was removed and the vacuum hose for it was capped with a bolt.
Make sure the spark plug wires are properly seated since you pulled them.
Matt
06-10-20, 07:56 AM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Are you positive it’s an oil leak and not coolant? This turbo coolant line looks like it’s leaking or something above it is and it’s trickling down. Those hoses are prone to busting since they’re really close to the turbos and they bake.
Other than that it’s kind of tough to see anything else. Looks like the turbos are non sequential? Looked like an actuator was removed and the vacuum hose for it was capped with a bolt.
Make sure the spark plug wires are properly seated since you pulled them.
Matt
Im pretty sure those turbos are stock sequential. My brother never mentioned anything to me about making a change to non-sequential. Ill try and call the shop he took it to have the motor built and confirm with them
Heres a picture of the spark plugs i pulled the other day https://imgur.com/a/bqIfQqD. Should that wire be more flush? I cant seem to push it in any further into the plug
06-10-20, 08:30 AM
#14
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I think the car isn't as well sorted as you thought when you went for a drive. Looks like there's a number of various issues that you're discovering.
For sure the car is non-sequential, I can see where the precontrol actuator would bolt to. It does look like one of the turbo coolant hoses are leaking, as stated this is a common problem. Both should be replaced with new Mazda parts, don't cheap out and try and use some generic hose or something, that will fail in short order.
Basically I don't think you did anything harmful to the car. I think the car as it sat before you drove it was in need of a good deal of work. It looks like it's going to need some time, some money, and some skill to get things sorted out and go through multiple problems, I don't know if you want to try and tackle that or let your brother sort it out when he gets back. If you just want to keep the car from having further problems while he's gone you can simply make sure you have a full tank of gas and start the car and let it run for 15-20 minutes every week or so. Maybe a short drive around the block once it's warmed up to exercise the brakes.
Dale
For sure the car is non-sequential, I can see where the precontrol actuator would bolt to. It does look like one of the turbo coolant hoses are leaking, as stated this is a common problem. Both should be replaced with new Mazda parts, don't cheap out and try and use some generic hose or something, that will fail in short order.
Basically I don't think you did anything harmful to the car. I think the car as it sat before you drove it was in need of a good deal of work. It looks like it's going to need some time, some money, and some skill to get things sorted out and go through multiple problems, I don't know if you want to try and tackle that or let your brother sort it out when he gets back. If you just want to keep the car from having further problems while he's gone you can simply make sure you have a full tank of gas and start the car and let it run for 15-20 minutes every week or so. Maybe a short drive around the block once it's warmed up to exercise the brakes.
Dale
06-10-20, 09:46 AM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I think the car isn't as well sorted as you thought when you went for a drive. Looks like there's a number of various issues that you're discovering.
For sure the car is non-sequential, I can see where the precontrol actuator would bolt to. It does look like one of the turbo coolant hoses are leaking, as stated this is a common problem. Both should be replaced with new Mazda parts, don't cheap out and try and use some generic hose or something, that will fail in short order.
Basically I don't think you did anything harmful to the car. I think the car as it sat before you drove it was in need of a good deal of work. It looks like it's going to need some time, some money, and some skill to get things sorted out and go through multiple problems, I don't know if you want to try and tackle that or let your brother sort it out when he gets back. If you just want to keep the car from having further problems while he's gone you can simply make sure you have a full tank of gas and start the car and let it run for 15-20 minutes every week or so. Maybe a short drive around the block once it's warmed up to exercise the brakes.
Dale
For sure the car is non-sequential, I can see where the precontrol actuator would bolt to. It does look like one of the turbo coolant hoses are leaking, as stated this is a common problem. Both should be replaced with new Mazda parts, don't cheap out and try and use some generic hose or something, that will fail in short order.
Basically I don't think you did anything harmful to the car. I think the car as it sat before you drove it was in need of a good deal of work. It looks like it's going to need some time, some money, and some skill to get things sorted out and go through multiple problems, I don't know if you want to try and tackle that or let your brother sort it out when he gets back. If you just want to keep the car from having further problems while he's gone you can simply make sure you have a full tank of gas and start the car and let it run for 15-20 minutes every week or so. Maybe a short drive around the block once it's warmed up to exercise the brakes.
Dale
06-10-20, 10:57 AM
#16
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/M...d-Hoses-Pipes/
You can see the two hoses at the top of the page. The Mazda part numbers are there.
Local dealer may take you to the cleaners on the prices. Atkins is a good shop but their prices can be a little high and shipping is often high.
Ray Crowe is an amazing source for parts, here is his contact info -
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...-days-1115185/
Best prices hands down and he will get you the right part for sure.
Dale
You can see the two hoses at the top of the page. The Mazda part numbers are there.
Local dealer may take you to the cleaners on the prices. Atkins is a good shop but their prices can be a little high and shipping is often high.
Ray Crowe is an amazing source for parts, here is his contact info -
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...-days-1115185/
Best prices hands down and he will get you the right part for sure.
Dale
06-10-20, 11:24 AM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
06-10-20, 12:49 PM
#19
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep. Call Ray up, he will probably beat Atkins' price and beat them on shipping too. Great guy and easy to work with. You can just tell him the parts you need and he knows just what to get, he knows every square inch of these cars. He has a sweet 3-rotor FD too.
Dale
Dale
06-11-20, 01:24 AM
#20
That thing didn't even try to warm itself up! my stock ECU usually had it idle about 1500rpm on cold start till it warmed up and sealed up. Makes me wonder if idling too low while cold could cause it to die and not have enough idling umpf to drive the accessories.
06-11-20, 03:09 PM
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I caved, and brought it to a shop. Since pulling that battery, my back is still jacked. No crawling under rx7's for me for a bit it seems. Ill post the diagnosis once i hear back from the shop. They did say that whichever shop built the motor, didnt understand the turbo. Turning it to non sequential was a shitty shortcut. Not sure how accurate that statement is
06-11-20, 03:19 PM
#22
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Non-sequential was big back in the day (90s) as a way to make more power when there were very few single turbo options out there. Most of the people that have done it just couldn't figure out some quirk in the sequential system and gave up, or thought they were cool "ripping all that junk out".
I think now people have a more "adult" approach to it. The big advantage with the twins is the fat power band. You can have good power from 2000 RPM to redline. Going non-sequential gets rid of the one thing that makes the twin turbos worthwhile.
Going back to sequential can be a chore depending on how it was done, tracking down a lot of little parts that either went in the trash or were mangled so they can't be used with their original purpose.
Dale
I think now people have a more "adult" approach to it. The big advantage with the twins is the fat power band. You can have good power from 2000 RPM to redline. Going non-sequential gets rid of the one thing that makes the twin turbos worthwhile.
Going back to sequential can be a chore depending on how it was done, tracking down a lot of little parts that either went in the trash or were mangled so they can't be used with their original purpose.
Dale
06-11-20, 03:34 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This shops statement is pretty much aligned with your statement Dale (leaves me knowing i made the right choice in shop). This car is losing the boost at the high end rpms. I just called and added to my work order that they help me identify what is missing to bring it back to a sequential setup. So far you guys have helped identify the actuator is missing
Last edited by Chad-Flexington; 06-11-20 at 03:36 PM. Reason: repetitiveness
06-11-20, 07:05 PM
#24
You sure your brother would be okay with that? I mean it could cost a bit... I just know if someone took my car to a shop without my knowledge I'd flip. Granted last shop I dealt with tried to joy ride it. ******* didn't realize I set valet mode on the ECU and it logs at full throttle.
06-11-20, 09:00 PM
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I spoke with my brother the other day and told him about all the issues I'm discovering. He said he knew about the minor leak, but not all the other issues. He did give the thumbs up for me to take it to the shop. I'm going to front the cost and he will be reimbursing me once he gets back. I'm stupid, but at least respectful of other people's property. I might end up buying this off of him if I can get all the issues sorted out. I don't really get the vibe of them taking the car for a joy ride. They're very reputable, and the owner has a much better condition fd than what I brought in
Last edited by Chad-Flexington; 06-11-20 at 09:02 PM. Reason: .
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JuSanBee (06-12-20)