jimlab

Duck???

It's only a brake duct if it directs air to the brakes. The air passing through the side openings in the front bumper and through the oil cooler(s) flows up and over the wheel beneath the fender and exits through the vent in the side of the fender. It's an oil cooler duct, not a brake duct. No air passing through there goes anywhere near the brakes.

The R models were the only ones with brake ducts, and the ducting attaches to the bottom of the belly side panels and connects to the openings in the R model front spoiler.

Now, do we have all of our "ducks" in a row?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Very funny Jim. You're a real quack up

Domestic513

Any pics of the finished product?

gfelber

How about a 650 HP LeMans class winning Ferrari 550 Maranello?



Note the air intake ducts are the black radiused inlets.

Gene

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Oopps I didn't even catch that. LOL

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Nice I guess I should have been more specific. I really meant production high performance vehicles. Not one that has been converted for track use. This car has been re-designed to be driven on a track not public roads where it wont experiance intersection dips and pot holes(places that hold water). Besides its still higher than the oil cooler duct. Also this car in stock form has it's intake in the hood.

jimlab

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...ted/index.html

I happen to be putting my intake in the same location, and I'll be using an inline AEM Air Bypass Valve (not that I'll ever drive my car in the rain) as protection.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

You know Jim I saw that same thing along time ago. Let us know how well it works. As for my personal car, I will be modifying the front air scoup of my Scoot Hood for my cold air intake.

TT_Rex_7

Thats what I really wanted to do, but then I decided to keep my car stock on the oustide, besides upgrading the wheels. I'm sure that'd probably be the best area for an intake. Although I wonder how much the engine temps will effect the duct, since its sitting inside the bay, but the air will be rushing through there so fast, it probably wont make much of a diffrence.

-Alex

t-von

iTrader: (8)

We'll see how well it works when I finally get some things completed. I have big plans for both of my oil cooler ducks.

Kevin T. Wyum

I wouldn't worry about the engine heat on the hood duct, I'd worry about the opening being a low pressure area and not having much in the way of airflow there.

Kevin T. Wyum

jimlab

BTW, as far as the argument about ambient air temperature above asphalt on a hot day... the air temperature 1, 2 or even 3 feet above the asphalt is not going to be significantly different than the temperature 6 inches above the road surface, and regardless, outside air temperature will certainly be significantly lower than the temperature under the hood.

In other words, there's no valid reason for not pulling air from the front of the bumper if you're able to.

SpoolinRX

iTrader: (6)

I was fallowing along for a real long time, but now i just think its gettin kinda old

jimlab

I don't blame you one bit. Fallowing can get old in a hurry.

SpoolinRX

iTrader: (6)

umm yeah ok... no offence but you’ve come up with better

teamstealth

LT1-7, nice fabrication on the duct!

t-von, How about the M3 CSL?


I cant find a picture of this, but i know for a fact the new Porsche GT3RS's cold air intakes are under the rear of the body, and at 140+ mph theyve shown a gain of 35hp from the cold ram air. Innovative enough to be outlawed for LeMans racing.

Last example would be the one-off Lingenfelter TT Z06 that will do 0-60 in 1.97 seconds and the quarter in 9.24s at 150.27 mph. Makes good use of the front license plate area to ram air directly up and into the engine


I think theres some merit to using a low cold air intake

ijneb

LOL come on now Jim, you can do better than this.

How many of you guys go full boost (WOT in Jim's case.. well one day) after fording a river?

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

That Lingenfelter got into the 8's on street legal drag radials on a later run.

gfelber

Regardless of whether it's production or not, it refutes your premise that this is a suboptimal location due to radiant heat off of asphalt. I certainly think Prodrive did their homework on this car as it beat the factory supported C5Rs at Lemans in 2003.

I agree with Jim that the ambient temps are not going to be appreciably different 3" above the asphalt compare to, say, 5" inches or a foot (the average environmental lapse rate for temperature reduction per change in altitude is 3.3 degrees per 1000 feet). And no, it's not higher than the FD oil cooler duct location. This car sits extremely low- the intake trumpets are roughly a few inches above my anke (I'm the one who took the picture). This pictures shows that car on jacks.

Gene

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Just thought I would re-post my original post from the second page. What I originally said was true about it being hotter the furthure down you go. I'm sticking to that fact. Also I think there is a general misconception about the term "COLD AIR". Guys really think about this for a sec.

I'll use the Porsche GT3Rs mentioned above for an example. The intake is in the rear and under the body of the car(maybe 4" off the ground). I don't dought for one second that it wasn't designed to increase hp at those kinds of speeds. I believe the increase comes more from the ram air effect and not necessarily because it's "COLD AIR". All I said was that having an intake that low would still suck in hot air. Thats a fact especially on a hot summer day. Can this hot air still make extra hp? Yes it can. I never said it couldn't. If the asphalt surface temps are around 120+ degrees, the air above is going to be nearly the same. So the term "COLD AIR" really doesn't apply in the summer. I would call it cooler air. I hope this explanation makes a little more since.

LT1-7

It's OK t-von. Just let it go. We won't make fun of you

iluvmy3rdgen

That's a really sweet intake design LT1-7.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

No it doesn't! The radiant heat off the asphalt hasn't been my only argument. I've clearly talked about how having a spot that low could easily suck in water as well(see my second post on this thread). I just didn't mention that in my first post. If I was to design a pure track car, I would do the same thing. The car on this thread is a street driven car. Big differance because a street car has more variables to worry about. Also the main reason I asked to see intakes from high performance production vehicles is because I know manufacturers aren't going to put an intack that low because they have to worry about other things being sucked into the intake. Hot air isn't their main concern.


I could tell that the car was on jack stands. Like I said this car has been modified to be a pure track car. So it wont experiance the pot holes and intersection dips that a regular production high performance car will. Once again I'm not just talking about the intake sucking in hot air. This car (in it's current condition)would practically be undrivable on public streets in low lying areas that flood.

iluvmy3rdgen

I know that it's a honda but I had a Prelude and it was lowered to the max, the front bumper was near 3 inches off the ground max, for looks mainly but also some handling. Well the intake that I put on it was ram air from the nose of the bumper and was similar to LT1-7's design but it was a little smaller in diameter, only about 3 - 3.5 inches. I had a mesh grille around the inlet of the intake to prevent dirt from entering but recessed into the tube for esthetics. The intake had an AEM bypass valve as jim showed and i didn't have a filter on it. The car was an everyday driver and through ran or shine the car ran fine. No hydro-locking occured. I watched out for dusty or dirt roads and went slow but besides that I beat the hell out of the car until I sold it. Point is from a stock warm air, ram air design
the intake temps dropped about 20-30 degrees with the cold air design.


If you think that the heat from the road is a concern I think you should reconsider that. I thought the same thing but on a nice hot summer day have someone drive a car and stick your hand out the window going about 55 or higher and try and reach as close to the ground as possible. Although the heat radiating off the ground is hot at a stand still, moving it will still cool your hand down. Relative to the air temps in the engine compartment of a rotary or even piston engine even, I would say it's safe to call that cold air.

LT1-7

For water to be sucked into the duct and into the turbo, a couple of things have to happen. He'd have to run WOT at high speeds and submerge the whole front end of his car into water. Rain drops and splashes of water is not going to make its way up that pipe and into the turbo. You haven't even seen the whole system yet so to make guesses at it just annoys the hell out of me. Take a vacuum for example. Submerge the hose in a tank of water. It will suck up water, that's a given. Now take that same hose and only expose water to a quarter of the hose. You'll see water doesn't want to go up that hose because there's not enough force pushing it up. Now my point is water will more thank likely puddle up in the box I made on rainy days. But it takes some triple digit speeds as well as some high vacuum to suck water up there. And if it is raining, I boubt Dean's going to be hot rodding his car on flooded streets. So no, this system probably wouldn't be the best for say your daily driven honda accord but we're not talking about the same cars in the same situations here are we?