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-   -   How to Test your solenoids, actuators, and other turbo stuff (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-test-your-solenoids-actuators-other-turbo-stuff-802060/)

dgeesaman 11-22-08 02:31 PM

How to Test your solenoids, actuators, and other turbo stuff
 
This thread is to compile the testing information for stock turbo control parts.

I firmly believe that anyone can make their stock turbos run well if they thoroughly test everything under the hood and get it up to spec. The trouble is most people don't know how to properly test each component. It doesn't help that the Mazda FSM test procedures are incomplete or insufficient. (I can't imagine how many thousand$$ would have been saved in dealer bills if the FSM had more detail on this).

My approach to the so-called "vacuum hose job" is to invest $100 in these tools, another $50 in spare solenoids. Then test everything and reassemble with new vacuum hoses and only the solenoids that work perfectly. You can find links about the hose job in the FAQ.

Please give me the weekend to finish most of this thread before adding questions and stuff.

Sgtblue 11-22-08 02:33 PM

Subscribed. :)

dgeesaman 11-22-08 02:39 PM

Tools
 
1 Attachment(s)
First, the tools I use for testing.

1) Mityvac vacuum pump kit. Get the Silverline Plus version because it has both pressure and vacuum readouts on the dial.
2) Extra vacuum hose. I prefer silicone because it's extra stretchy and it seals really well.
3) Tee fittings. McMaster-Carr has these under "tube fittings"
4) A 9V battery. The solenoids usually work pretty well at 9v versus the normal 12v, and I figure it's a more conservative test if the solenoid coils aren't energized to their full potential.
5) Connector pigtails I got off of a trashed wiring harness. This makes the electrical tests a lot easier. Not necessary but very handy.
6) A multimeter (not pictured)
7) An extra boost gauge can come in handy. Just don't bang it around like I did or else it won't zero out anymore. :( It will still work well if you compensate the readings by that amount.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1227386273

dgeesaman 11-22-08 02:57 PM

A quick look at some of the components I'll test
 
1 Attachment(s)
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1227387330

I don't have any spare actuators laying around, but those are easier to describe without pictures.

dgeesaman 11-22-08 03:24 PM

2 Attachment(s)
First, I'll test the basic rack solenoid.

In case you're not aware of it, a rack solenoid is a 3-way valve controlled by an electromagnetic coil. With no voltage, there is a spring inside that pushes the plunger into contact with one port of the solenoid and seals it off. When the coil is energized with 12v, the plunger gets drawn in the other direction, opening that port and sealing the other port.

Said another way, each solenoid has a source port ("A"), a dump port ("C"), and an output port ("B"). When not energized, the solenoid shuts off A and sends C to B. When energized, the solenoid shuts off port C and directs port A (usually connected to vacuum or pressure source) through port B. The output B is usually sent toward an actuator, the source is either the pressure or vacuum tank, and the dump port is usually sent to atmosphere. In a few cases when a normally open logic is required, C is used as the source and A is dump.

I lump all of the rack solenoids together because they are the same thing. The difference between them is only markings and the position of a filter if it has one. The filter is the black plastic thing with the polyester wool inside. You can pop them off and move them around depending whether the vacuum diagram calls out for one on that solenoid. My approach is to label each one and make up a chart noting the test results. I find that if I buy a full spare rats nest worth of solenoids, I have no trouble getting one full rack worth that pass the tests.

Most of the rack solenoids switch between full engine vacuum (about 20-25in"Hg) and atmospheric (zero) pressure. The turbo control pressure solenoid operates between pressure and atmospheric.

The most common failures are leakage of the plunger at one or both positions, a bad coil, and simply getting stuck. Some of these will happen only when the solenoid is hot, so I do each test cold and then repeat them with the solenoids hot. I do this carefully by heating the oven to 250F with the solenoids on one of those insulated cookie pans and covering them all with foil. About 10min in a warm oven gets everything nice and hot. I only take them out a couple at a time for hot tests because they cool off quickly.

You can find info in the FSM about testing this type of solenoid on page F-177. Basically it says to check for continuity over the electrical coil, and to use 12v to ensure the plunger moves inside the solenoid.

First, the resistance test:
Use your multimeter and test the resistance across the terminals. It should be about 40ohms, or a little more if the solenoid is hot. If it shows a resistance above 60 or below 30ohms, junk it.


Second, the basic leak test:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1227387488

Apply full vacuum (25") and full pressure (15psi) to port A. If it leaks (slow leaks are not acceptable to me), junk it. If it passes the vacuum test but not the pressure test, you can still use it anywhere except the turbo control solenoid.

Third, the energized leak test:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1227388028

Set up like this, using your spare boost gauge or some other way to close off the output port B of the solenoid. Just a section of hose with a golf tee in the end will work if you don't have a spare gauge.

Connect the power source to the solenoid. It should click open immediately, and release immediately when the power is removed. I find that sometimes a solenoid that's been sitting on the shelf can stick, so you can give it a good rap and see if that gets it moving again. If a few taps doesn't get it moving freely, junk it. If you think you freed up a solenoid like that, let it sit and try it again tomorrow to be sure.

This time keep the solenoid energized and apply full vacuum with the pump. If you have a boost gauge on the output end you should see it clearly. Now let it sit for a moment and see if it leaks. Junk it if it leaks. Now disconnect the power and see that the vacuum immediately vents through port C, and the vacuum isn't leaking at A. Junk it if it leaks (becoming a theme here?)

Repeat the energized test again, using pressure. I start with 12psi. Pay close attention this time to whether it releases immediately after disconnecting the power. If it hisses for a bit before snapping open, it's not a good thing. If it sticks and won't release, it's not good either. This means the spring is too weak or the plunger assembly is too gunked up to push the port open against the pressure. I like to repeat the test a few times at increasing pressure until I figure out how of a pressure the solenoid can handle. If many of your solenoids don't pass this test but they pass the vacuum version of the tests, just be sure to only use them in a position where they will see only vacuum. I pick the solenoid that handles the highest pressure without sticking and use it as the turbo control solenoid. (Bonus tip: if you install a pressure regulator on the pressure tank, you're basically preventing this solenoid from getting stuck by excess pressure)

tt7hvn 11-22-08 04:28 PM

this is awesome, good job and keep it up

(i know you're just trying to get to your 10,000th post!)

DaveW 11-22-08 05:52 PM

Thanks, Dave. How do you find the time for this stuff? Don't you sleep?

I haven't needed this yet, but you never can have too much good info.

RLaoFD 11-22-08 07:24 PM

Thanks! this is very good info! :icon_tup:

cabaynes 11-22-08 10:19 PM

Do you feel the need to heat up these pieces in a toaster oven prior to testing? We have been doing that at our garage for some time now, to get them to an "operating temperature" such that they would see inside the engine bay.

MOBEONER 11-22-08 11:16 PM


Originally Posted by dgeesaman (Post 8742321)


Please give me the weekend to finish most of this thread before adding questions and stuff.

guys we all know this thread will be awesome but please lets keep our comments until the end of the write up..

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:03 AM

Check valve
 
Check valves are easy. You hook up the mityvac to the "back" of the valve (noting the arrow pointing "forward") and apply at least 25in vacuum. If it leaks, junk it. Then switch your pump and make sure it takes less than 1psi to slowly draw air through. If it takes more than 1psi to crack open, junk it.

Or hook up the mityvac to the "front" and apply 15psi pressure. Max cracking pressure should then be about 2" vacuum.

FSM covers this on page F-90.

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:17 AM

Wastegate and Precontrol Solenoids
 
1 Attachment(s)
These are on/off solenoids, mounted as a pair. If one fails you pretty much have to junk them both. Fortunately they tend to last longer than some other solenoids.

They act as a boost control solenoid, with pressure from the wastegate or precontrol actuator always on port A. The ECU rapidly pulses 12v to the coil and causes it to open and close rapidly, keeping the pressure in the actuator about 4psi less than what is coming in from the turbos.

The FSM covers this on page F-93.

Set up with your vacuum pump on port A:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1227446032

So start by applying 12psi pressure to port A. Junk it if it leaks. Then use the 9v battery to test that it opens under 12psi pressure. It should open immediately.

Last, check the resistance across the coil. It should be about 30 Ohms.

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:20 AM

Purge control solenoid
 
The purge control solenoid is an emissions thing. If you are having turbo control problems you might choose to skip this solenoid.

It operates just like the wastegate and precontrol solenoids except that it's under vacuum.

Hook up your vacuum pump to port B and apply 25" vacuum. It should not leak and it should open when you apply voltage.

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:27 AM

Turbo Control Vacuum Solenoid
 
1 Attachment(s)
This is the solenoid that mounts onto the ACV.

It looks like a purge control solenoid but it's not the same thing. That plastic cap on the end actually covers the dump port (pull it off if you're curious), at which point you can clearly see this is a 3-way valve.

It operates by switching vacuum. It opens and closes exactly with the turbo control (pressure) solenoid in the rack, in fact the wiring joins within the harness and is controlled by one pin on the ECU. One applies pressure to one side of the actuator, the other applies vacuum to the opposite side. I suspect this is because the spring in the actuator is much stiffer than the others.

Set up like this, with a dead-end on port B and your vacuum pump on port A.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1227446631

Just like a rack solenoid, test to see that it does not leak with 25" vacuum. Then energize it and see that it opens cleanly and again the vacuum does not leak.

Coil resistance should be about 37 Ohms.

There is no coverage for this solenoid in the FSM. I believe Mazda added it at the last minute to improve the response of the turbo control actuator.

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:46 AM

Air Bypass Valve and Charge Relief Valve
 
Enough solenoid stuff.

The ABV and CRV work like blowoff valves. The ABV is a true blowoff valve, opening only when there is vacuum at the intake plenum. This way when you let off the throttle under boost, the butterflies close and you have vacuum on the engine side and full boost still being produced on the intake side. That's like slamming your spinning turbo into a brick wall; so by opening the ABV that boost vents off into the airbox and allows the turbos to spin down gracefully. The FSM covers ABV testing on F-77.

The CRV is a little different. It operates by giving boost somewhere to go (the airbox) when the secondary turbo is in the pre-spool state. It closes when the secondary goes online at 4500rpm. If the CRV does not close fully you can see loss of boost above 4500rpm. The FSM covers the CRV testing on F-88.

Testing is pretty simple: hook up your vacuum pump to port A. Apply a small amount of vacuum (7 to 9 inHg) and you should hear a gentle pop as the valve opens. Junk it if it doesn't open and close crisply.

Ideally you should also hook up the vacuum pump to port C and apply 15psi of pressure with a check valve in line. Junk it if it leaks. Then you can disconnect the pump at the check valve, leaving 15psi still applied to port C. Now apply 7-9inHg at port A, and it should snap open and vent the pressure. Unfortunately I haven't put together fittings that will adapt from that large opening on port C to my vacuum pump.

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:51 AM

Other Actuators
 
Other actuators:
The other actuators are pretty well covered by the FSM. I basically use the vacuum pump to apply whatever amount the FSM says it take to open the actuator. If it leaks I junk it. If it doesn't move smoothly I junk it. No pics because I don't have spare actuators laying around.

The actuators have bigger vacuum lines than the solenoids. I have an adapter fitting that jumps from the small vacuum hose to the larger size and this helps me get a good leak-free test setup.

Turbo Control Actuator: F-86
(Note, you don't have to do both a vacuum and pressure test on this one, just one or the other).
Charge Control Actuator: F-87
Wastegate actuator: F-90
Precontrol Actuator: F-89

dgeesaman 11-23-08 07:56 AM


Originally Posted by stokedxiv (Post 8743171)
Do you feel the need to heat up these pieces in a toaster oven prior to testing? We have been doing that at our garage for some time now, to get them to an "operating temperature" such that they would see inside the engine bay.

Yes, I have found solenoids that pass when cold and fail when hot and vice-versa. So I do all tests hot and cold.

I use a regular oven and one of those "air bake" cookie pans. I don't trust a toaster oven.


Originally Posted by tt7hvn (Post 8742511)
this is awesome, good job and keep it up

(i know you're just trying to get to your 10,000th post!)

Ha, not quite. I'm limited to just a couple of attachments per post, which is why it has to be a thread.

jmadams74 12-02-08 10:40 PM


Originally Posted by dgeesaman (Post 8743616)


Ideally you should also hook up the vacuum pump to port C and apply 15psi of pressure with a check valve in line. Junk it if it leaks. Then you can disconnect the pump at the check valve, leaving 15psi still applied to port C. Now apply 7-9inHg at port A, and it should snap open and vent the pressure. Unfortunately I haven't put together fittings that will adapt from that large opening on port C to my vacuum pump.

There is another step necessary to check the pressure side of port C. The key (as indicated above) is to determine if the "C" opening will hold the maximum boost when closed, and if the passage "C" to "B" is open when vacuum is applied to "A". While the test correctly discusses the vacuum to "A" issue, what is missed is that, during normal operation, when the CRV is closed, pressure is being applied to "A". Therefore, to test the CRV, put a T on your mityvac line and apply pressure to both "A" and "C" simultaneously. I've never seen a CRV that would hold 15 PSI on "C" without applying pressure to "A" and many people have needlessly replaced their CRV when it was actually working perfectly well. For testing "C" my vacuum/pressure pump/gauge came with a neat adapter that looks like a bottle cork on one end (fits tightly into "C") and has a regular tubing connection on the other end.

PS. Great idea to put this all in one thread as you usually need to test all this together to really trouble-shoot boost problems!

Sonny 12-03-08 01:05 AM

Nice writeup. Another good power source for testing solenoids is an old PC power supply. Turn on the switch and you've got an instant +12v (and +5v) on any of the connectors for powering the hard drives.

Sonny

BOOSTscoop 12-03-08 01:10 AM

sub

squealy 12-03-08 09:50 AM


Originally Posted by Sonny (Post 8768588)
Nice writeup. Another good power source for testing solenoids is an old PC power supply. Turn on the switch and you've got an instant +12v (and +5v) on any of the connectors for powering the hard drives.

Sonny

ooh.. brilliant!, i hadn't thought of that! I may just have to set up a test area for solenoids with my old power supply! Hopefully this will help me get an intermittent boost issue solved, and the idle problem i've been having.

Thanks for the great writeup!:icon_tup:

somchhir1 12-03-08 10:31 AM

thanks for the know how......

M104-AMG 01-17-09 08:57 PM

FWIW, I had a 50% failure rate on NEW from Mazda OE solenoids.

In short, test them even when new!

:-) neil

scotty305 01-24-09 07:34 PM

Seems like this thread belongs in the Archive section.

phinsn98 01-25-09 07:39 AM

great post

MOBEONER 01-25-09 07:59 AM

damn-dgeesaman- you changed your picture and now you messing me up when i scroll down threads

beckrx 01-25-09 04:04 PM

What are your thoughts on spraying silicone spray into a sticky rack solenoid?

dgeesaman 01-25-09 05:53 PM

You could try it, but nothing I've tried has worked to unstick a sticky solenoid.

taylor7787 01-31-09 03:02 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by squealy (Post 8769000)
ooh.. brilliant!, i hadn't thought of that! I may just have to set up a test area for solenoids with my old power supply! Hopefully this will help me get an intermittent boost issue solved, and the idle problem i've been having.

Thanks for the great writeup!:icon_tup:

so you guys spoke of using a power supply and this is my take on it
did this this afternoon
it also works for testing car electronics, as you can see im testing a dvd deck i pulled out of a 240 i bought
let me know what you think, i think it should be easier to test solenoids with this rather then holding 3 wires at once and pumping the mityvac while trying to watch for leaks.


Attachment 706489
Attachment 706490
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/DSCN2535.jpg
Attachment 706491
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/DSCN2536.jpg
Attachment 706492
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/DSCN2538.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7/DSCN2539.jpg

beckrx 03-14-09 07:05 PM

Are the small and large diameter check valves interchangeable or do I need to make retain size consistency when changing these check valves?

IMZman 03-14-09 08:46 PM

A check valve is a check valve.

Do a search for "Dale Clark". He will sell you some nice check valves which use a VITON (damn near indestructible) diaphragm. They are smaller, nicer and way cheaper than OEM. Don't quote me...but I believe he will ship you four for $15 give or take a couple bucks. Get a half dozen then you'll have a spare of two depending on how many you want to swap out.

Sgtblue 03-15-09 05:39 AM


Originally Posted by IMZman (Post 9044652)
A check valve is a check valve.

Do a search for "Dale Clark". He will sell you some nice check valves which use a VITON (damn near indestructible) diaphragm. They are smaller, nicer and way cheaper than OEM.

They also have a single 'barb' on each end and stay very well.
-----> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...1%7C240%3A1318

Wrenchrash 03-15-09 05:53 AM

You are FANTASTIC, the information you give is price less to all of us RX7 owners who mechanic on our own cars, because most Mazda Dealers are FRIGHTENED of the word RX..
Keep up the great work as this sight will be looked at by future historians of the RX7.

Julian 03-15-09 03:54 PM

Fantastic writeup

Turn1First 04-02-09 12:55 PM

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. Your help is appreciated.

xzl6b1 12-05-09 07:50 AM

dgeesaman:
GREAT POST . Posting my problem and test results to help others.

Backround:
purchased a stock twin sequential with light mods (silicone rat's nest hoses, pfs smic, 99 twins, pfs dp, pfs intake)

Problem:
Boosted 10-8-10 at purchase (July), but developed a 14 psi spike at 4500 rpm (Sept), and base boost increased to 12 psi

Tests:
Checked all turbo control actuators, they were ok.
All silicone vacuum lines were ok.
Decided to run the solenoid tests after finding this post.

Results:
All solenoids activated properly at 12 volts and ambient temp
All solenoids passed leak tests at ambient temp
2 solenoids failed to activate at 9v and ambient, charge control and relief (acv)
All 7 rack solenoids (items a-f in diagram) failed to open at 9v and 250 degree F (hot)
However, 6 of these solenoids opened at 12v and 250 degree F

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...charge+control

Conclusion:
I ordered 3 new turbo control rack solenoids, and replaced others with used solenoids that tested ok.
Thanks again for this post it was a huge help

xzl6b1 12-05-09 11:23 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Since all failed rack solenoids were the 7 in-line nearest the engine block, I'm guessing radiant engine block heat caused the failure. Rather than relocate the solenoids, I added Thermotec insulating fabric as shown in pics.

beckrx 12-07-09 07:41 PM


Originally Posted by xzl6b1 (Post 9660225)
Since all failed rack solenoids were the 7 in-line nearest the engine block, I'm guessing radiant engine block heat caused the failure. Rather than relocate the solenoids, I added Thermotec insulating fabric as shown in pics.

How effective is/will the insulating fabric be against heat soak?

Gringo Grande 12-07-09 08:28 PM

Is this really not archived? Needs to be if not.

dgeesaman 12-07-09 09:18 PM

It should be in the FAQ. The archive hasn't been in use as much.

Dave

xzl6b1 12-08-09 07:21 AM

degeesaman agree with faq, seems that most don't realize that the solenoids are a huge problem (I didn't).

beckrx, good question. I'm sure a vented hood helps a lot, of course.
For those of us that have a stock hood, not sure. One idea (not completed), perhaps a time delay relay that turns the engine cooling fans on for a few minutes, after shutdown. Kinda like a turbo timer, it would force air through the engine compartment, and lower heat soak temps, that would help the underhood component durability

gracer7-rx7 12-08-09 10:48 AM

I just updated the FAQ with this link.

xzl6b1 12-08-09 11:14 AM

Just received 3 new solenoids from Malloy:
Pressure regulator (13-240A)
Charge Control (13-240A)
Turbo Control ((18-741)

Test Results @ ambient:
2 of 3 failed to open with 9v,
but all 3 would open @12v
(they are a little "tight" when new??)

Test Results @250 deg F:
3 of 3 failed @ 9v,
again all 3 opened properly with 12v

Comment:
agree with M104-AMG: even new valves fail @9v, however all should pass @12v.

Conclusion:
Test at ambient and hot, but use 12v ............

gracer7-rx7 12-08-09 11:43 AM


Originally Posted by xzl6b1 (Post 9665910)
Just received 3 new solenoids from Malloy:
Pressure regulator (13-240A)
Charge Control (13-240A)
Turbo Control ((18-741)

Test Results @ ambient:
2 of 3 failed to open with 9v,
but all 3 would open @12v
(they are a little "tight" when new??)

Test Results @250 deg F:
3 of 3 failed @ 9v,
again all 3 opened properly with 12v

Comment:
agree with M104-AMG: even new valves fail @9v, however all should pass @12v.

Conclusion:
Test at ambient and hot, but use 12v ............


That is sad. I was about to order some new stock solenoids to try and fix a problem with my transition (or lack of a transition to the secondary turbo). No secondary boost. :(

I'm going to do some research and see if I can replace one of my bad solenoids with one of these:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/custom-replacement-solenoid-system-404243/page8/

dgeesaman 12-08-09 12:01 PM

As I said earlier in the thread, the solenoids do not operate at 9v. They operate at 12v but I usually use a fresh 9v battery because I'm lazy about finding a 12v source. If you get different results at 12v then disregard what you did at 9v.

The Mazda parts probably sat on a shelf for years. If it take a couple of cycles to get them moving it would not concern me much.

Dave

M104-AMG 12-08-09 12:38 PM


Originally Posted by dgeesaman (Post 9665987)
<SNIP>

The Mazda parts probably sat on a shelf for years. If it take a couple of cycles to get them moving it would not concern me much.

Dave

I cycled NEW solenoids about 25-times, and they still failed . . .

:-( neil

beckrx 12-08-09 07:36 PM


Originally Posted by xzl6b1 (Post 9665636)
degeesaman agree with faq, seems that most don't realize that the solenoids are a huge problem (I didn't).

beckrx, good question. I'm sure a vented hood helps a lot, of course.
For those of us that have a stock hood, not sure. One idea (not completed), perhaps a time delay relay that turns the engine cooling fans on for a few minutes, after shutdown. Kinda like a turbo timer, it would force air through the engine compartment, and lower heat soak temps, that would help the underhood component durability

I always prop the hood open after I turn off the car, wait five minutes then turn the key to the "run" position which turns on the fans. I then let the fans run for about fifteen minutes. I am unconcerned with battery drain since I use a battery tender.

As to solenoid testing, I use an AC/DC adapter with an adjustable output setting (a universal adapter). I cut off the connector, stripped the two wire ends, connect the leads to the part and switch between 9v and 12v when testing.

I recently installed all new solenoids that I purchased from Ray at Malloy Mazda. (Thank you dgeesaman for taking the time to respond to all my PMs on solenoid testing.) My neighbor M104-AMG told me that I would probably have a 50%+ failure rate testing new solenoids and he was right. I was afraid that I was irritating Ray when I called him to order replacement solenoids. However, he swapped out the failed solenoids without hesitation. I am glad I tested each one. Since rebuilding my rat's nest, my car has never run better.

I also learned from Ray that although the solenoids all look alike, there are specific part numbers for specific solenoids. The following are the number of solenoids needed, the part number and the purpose.
(3) 1480-13-240A. Double throttle control, charge control and charge relief.
(1) 1481-13-240A. Pressure regulator control.
(2) 1482-13-240A. Secondary air bypass, EGR.
(1) N390-18-741. Turbo control.
(1) N3A7-18-741. Secondary air switching valve.

Finally, the painted numbering/lettering sequence on the solenoid identifies what they are for. Ray said that there are two rows of painted numbers on each solenoid: the upper and the lower rows. The lower row identifies the solenoids as follows:
"1" corresponds to part number 1482-13-240A. Secondary air bypass, EGR.
"2" corresponds to part number 1481-13-240A. Pressure regulator control.
"3" corresponds to part number 1480-13-240A. Double throttle control, charge control and charge relief.
"82" corresponds to part number N390-18-741. Turbo control.
"17 corresponds to N3A7-18-741. Secondary air switching valve.

dgeesaman 12-08-09 07:45 PM


Originally Posted by M104-AMG (Post 9666050)
I cycled NEW solenoids about 25-times, and they still failed . . .

:-( neil

Eww. Sounds like shelf life is getting to be a serious problem.

I bought some new ones a few years ago (ok, maybe 6 years by now) and didn't have any duds. It doesn't seem that way anymore.


I also learned from Ray that although the solenoids all look alike, there are specific part numbers for specific solenoids. The following are the number of solenoids needed, the part number and the purpose.
They are certainly marked per location and the filter basket will be in the right location for you. But if you ignore the markings and move the filter baskets around I have yet to find any difference in build and performance.

Dave

xzl6b1 12-11-09 05:24 AM

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-3-cooling-fan-controls-876767/

beckrx see above still thinking about heat soak........

*RX007* 10-11-10 09:29 PM

I Have Put these instructions together in a PDF. If someone wants to host it or have it emailed I can do that.


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