How to separate Turbo's from assembly???
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Don't speak anymore...
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Tally-No, FL
How to separate Turbo's from assembly???
Pretty self explanatory...but how do you separate the Turbo's (turbines) from the actual assembly? I have removed all the securing plates and bolts but the turbos dont seem to come out the assembly. Am I missing something? Looks pretty straight forward.... 
Thread Starter
Don't speak anymore...
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 471
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From: Tally-No, FL
Na have not removed those as yet. Actually I dont see how that would effect the removal of the lower part of the turbo from the assembly. I need to find snap ring pliers that will actually compress those things. DAMN!!! Crazy. Trying to get here:
Last edited by Dream Theater; Sep 18, 2008 at 12:17 AM.
soak the **** in wd40 or other type of penetrant. The rust from over the years just kinda bonds the 2 halfs together. If you get a rubber mallet and hit it on the sides it can help to get them loose.
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Boulder, CO
I gave mine a few soft whacks with a wrench and they came loose. I highly recommend making your own set of snap ring pliers, they work much better. Spray the rusted area down with PB Blaster and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes.
Last edited by spoolage; Sep 18, 2008 at 01:13 PM.
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Hitting it with anything is a bad idea, IMO. I say that because as you whack it from side to side and it comes loose, the CHRA can **** and the turbine blades will hit the housing. That could damage the blades.
The best way to do it is to thread two of the M6 bolts half way back into the hot side and find two sockets that barely fit in between the M6 bolt heads and the cold side flange. With a 10mm wrench you go back and forth between the bolts, backing them out. You will gradually and evenly press the CHRA off of the housing. I can't remember whether or not the cold side has to still be on to do this.
The best way to do it is to thread two of the M6 bolts half way back into the hot side and find two sockets that barely fit in between the M6 bolt heads and the cold side flange. With a 10mm wrench you go back and forth between the bolts, backing them out. You will gradually and evenly press the CHRA off of the housing. I can't remember whether or not the cold side has to still be on to do this.
5449A98Heavy Duty Fixed-Tip Retaining-Ring Pliers Internal W/90 Deg Tip, 3-3/8" to 5-1/2" Bore DiaIn stock at $36.96 Each
part number: 5449A98
They're made by Knipex. Can't get much better than these for the price. Snap-on has rebadged knipex pliers and sold them as their own if that tells you anything.
Last edited by alexdimen; Sep 18, 2008 at 03:32 PM.
