How to remove rats nest?
How to remove rats nest?
I've got a bad FPD and so I'm going in to replace it, I've go the UIM removed and am working on getting the rats nest out but I'm having some problems, namely I don't know where to unscrew it so that I can take the whole system out together.
I know there are 3 phillips head screws on each side of it, and through my countless searching of threads I'm not sure if I am supposed to touch those or not, I saw at least one thread that said not to touch them.
I haven't been able to find a straightforward how-to for getting the rats nest out, so any pointers on where and number of screws/bolts that need to be taken out would be greatly appreciated, or if anyone has a link to a good write-up on it.
If anyone needs a picture to markup I've attached the pic of the rats nest after my UIM was removed.
Thanks,
Steve
I know there are 3 phillips head screws on each side of it, and through my countless searching of threads I'm not sure if I am supposed to touch those or not, I saw at least one thread that said not to touch them.
I haven't been able to find a straightforward how-to for getting the rats nest out, so any pointers on where and number of screws/bolts that need to be taken out would be greatly appreciated, or if anyone has a link to a good write-up on it.
If anyone needs a picture to markup I've attached the pic of the rats nest after my UIM was removed.
Thanks,
Steve
The rack is screwed into the block with 3 or 4 bolts. I don't know exactly what HAS to be removed. When I took mine out recently I removed the ignition parts and just hung them off to the side. I think the bolts are under there. I was rplacing the fpd, but also a wiring harness. I think I removed the air pump, alt., Oil filler neck, pressure box just so I could get to everything.
the screws to remove the rack are in the front and in the back. the ones in the back are difficult to remove. be careful not to strip the screws. your best bet is to use a socket with a phillips bit. you should be able to lift the rack straight up once the front and back is loose. it makes it really easy if you remove the ignition, air pump, crossover tube to intercooler, and the alternator.
there is a good write up at http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/index.htm
there is a good write up at http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/index.htm
I think I talk about it some in my writeup at www.davidgeesaman.com
Basically you have a choice - remove just the section with the solenoids in it, which requires removing the screws that face to the front and rear. I did not do that.
The other option is to remove the coils / coil box, remove the oil filler neck and purge control stuff, and loosen the fuel hoses. I strongly recommend using some penetrating oil to help loosen those hoses, and you'll absolutely need some pliers. Then you can remove the 12mm headed bolts that hold the whole rats nest to the engine block - I think there are 3 of them, all under/near the ignition coils. Then the whole set of hard pipes and solenoids comes out as one piece.
Dave
Basically you have a choice - remove just the section with the solenoids in it, which requires removing the screws that face to the front and rear. I did not do that.
The other option is to remove the coils / coil box, remove the oil filler neck and purge control stuff, and loosen the fuel hoses. I strongly recommend using some penetrating oil to help loosen those hoses, and you'll absolutely need some pliers. Then you can remove the 12mm headed bolts that hold the whole rats nest to the engine block - I think there are 3 of them, all under/near the ignition coils. Then the whole set of hard pipes and solenoids comes out as one piece.
Dave
I would definately go with dgreesmaman's 2nd option. If you try to remove the screws, I gurantee you will strip the head on at least one of them. They are pretty tight (believe Mazda used lock-tite on them).
Regarding those screws, using a set of sturdy pliers can help you grab the heads of the screws and crack them loose. A little heat from a micro propane torch will quickly solve the loc-tite problem if you're VERY CAREFUL and only heat the screws themselves, but with a fuel leak that's about the last tool you'll find me putting near my engine bay.
Dave
Dave





