OK guys... i just finished installing my keyless entry and alarm system. I'm having an issue with the factory alarm sometimes going off when i enter the car after disabling the aftermarket alarm.

I've heard you can "ground the hood pin" and it'll disable the factory alarm.

My question is, how do you ground the hood pin? I know it's the Brown/Yellow in CPU #2.

Do you just tap into it and ground it? or do your cut the wire and ground the end that goes into the CPU#2?

Your response is greatly appreciated.

 

welllll


if your information is true.... you might as well just put it to a known good ground... ie make a new ground

 

The idea is to just what you are saying, splice in to the wire and then run the other end to a ground. The hood latch bolts would work fine. This way the alarm (factory) won't arm. Now I kept the factory alarm and spliced the wires, hood, doors and hatch to a relay which grounds them when my keyless system is in use. This way I can arm the system normally and deactivate it with the Key less system.

 

Ok.. a little bit of confusion here. Are you talking about the hood latch in the engine bay or the hood latch under the driver's dash?

The hood pin under the hood in the engine compartment has two wires coming out of the switch.

Since you were only talking about one wire I assumed you were talking about the wire in CPU#2 (driver's kick panel). I tapped into the wire and connected it to a constant ground. This seems to have disabled the factory alarm... hopefully I won't have any more problems with it going off in the future!

Thanks for the input dude!

 

is there a way to totally unplug /disable the system completely.....

 

OK,
I finely worked out the wiring to add a Keyless entry and keep the factory alarm system operational. The problem is with the keyless system you don't use the door key and thus the driver, passenger and trunk key tamper switches don't get triggered to disarm the system using the keyless entry unit to unlock the doors.

I found if you trigger the circuit at 'N1' ECU #2, which is the key tamper switch for the doors you can get the system to work just as designed. You can't however get a ground pulse off the factory electric door lock relay. This will seem to work but it doesn't provide much security if any. The reason is if the door glass is broken and the door locks are triggered from the inside the system will disarm wired using the factory door lock relay and tying 'N1' to the ground pulse.
I found if you stick with the 'N1' ECU #2 circuit and install a simple relay driven by the new door lock actuator installed in the drivers door. Set it up to cycle the relay coil in the unlock mode and wire the 'N1' to pulse to ground when the relay triggers. This will keep the factory system intact. You will have to do the same to the trunk if you wish to have it open with the keyless system. I will try to mock up a wiring schematic to help anyone who like me likes the factory alarm.
I like the alarm because it starts at the door locks not after the door is opened.