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how do you do your own oil change??

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Old 05-04-04, 11:04 AM
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I thought oil capacity on a 3rd gen was 3.8 quarts? but who's counting. 4.5 if you change the filter? I guess I didn't know that.

I once went to pep boys to get my oil changed a long time ago and the guy was asking me where the coil was. He kept asking me where the coil was. I told him to just change the oil, but he said it was dangerous to do it to a turbo engine because there would be no oil in the turbo.

I can't tell you how annoying it was. He had my car up and everything.

I have never encountered this before. I just changed my oil two days ago as every 3 months myself, its very easy. I used a bosch filter. and i use non synth, 10 w 30.
Old 05-04-04, 11:13 AM
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Originally posted by adam c
Do the oil change when the car is cold, after it has sat for several hours, or preferably overnight. This way, the oil filter will have drained. Removing the oil filter, when it is full, will make a mess.
If so then you are using cheap oil filters without the anti-drainback valve. It's a one way valve that traps oil in the filter so oil arrives to the engine sooner at startup. They hold the oil and don't drip when you remove them. In fact you can shake the filter and feel the oil inside it, but it doesn't come out.

I like the Purolator Pure One filters but there are plenty of others with the anti-drainback valve. Read the fine print on the box; none of the "cheap" filters will have them. I pay about $5 each for the Pure Ones I think. Keep 4 or 5 of them and a case of motor oil stocked at all times

I use the Fram Sure Drain valve on the pan drain and like it. It doesn't stick out much which is what I don't like about the Fumoto. The sure drain also has a hose that snaps onto it so I now drain all my oil into empty 2 liter soda bottles. 2 of them needed for each change and the caps screw on nice and tight. I never screw around anymore with messy oil drain pans that I'm afraid to take to the store and drain because you know it's going to leak at any time. You can drop a soda bottle full of oil and not worry. Try that with those damned pans; haven't seen a decent one yet and I've tried 3 different kinds.

Oil capacity on a car with dual oil coolers is 5 quarts. The pan however only holds 4 (3.8?) so that's all you get out when you change the oil. I drain the pan and dump 4 quarts back in whenever I change oil.
Old 05-04-04, 11:22 AM
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Originally posted by DamonB
If so then you are using cheap oil filters without the anti-drainback valve. It's a one way valve that traps oil in the filter so oil arrives to the engine sooner at startup. They hold the oil and don't drip when you remove them. In fact you can shake the filter and feel the oil inside it, but it doesn't come out.

OEM Mazda filters are cheap??
Old 05-04-04, 11:26 AM
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Originally posted by DamonB
If so then you are using cheap oil filters without the anti-drainback valve.........
Just because I am a Cheap Bastard, doesn't mean that I am using cheap oil filters In fact, I use the Mazda OEM filters. Of course, I do get them cheap from Mazda Motorsports Even with an anti drainback valve, you will still get some oil spillage when removing the filter right after running the engine. I don't want to clean up any more than I have to.
Old 05-04-04, 11:29 AM
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Originally posted by Fumanchu
OEM Mazda filters are cheap??
No, they're fine. It's the $2.99 filters that are cheap. Cough *most Frams* cough, cough

I've been using the Pure One's for years and I let the engine cool about an hour and then remove the oil filter. Haven't had any oil run out of one and make a mess yet.
Old 05-04-04, 11:44 AM
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While we're on the subject, does anyone use alternative filters? The filter from the 2nd-gen turbo II fits, as well as the one from the 626. Both have a larger capacity (and larger filter surface area) than the stock filter, with the Turbo II filter being the biggest.

Are there any other things to consider besides volume of the filter? I'm assuming that since all are PureOne filters, they should be just as effective in filtering. Would the Turbo II's have a different pressure rating or anything else I haven't considered?

-s-
Old 05-04-04, 11:49 AM
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I use oil filters from the MX-6, not sure if the TII is the same. The MX-6 filter is taller and lots of people go with a bigger filter so there is more filter area just as you said. It does make it much tighter though as there is barely enough room to clear the TPS when removing/installing the filter. In fact I have to unplug my TPS in order to have room to remove/install the filter.
Old 05-04-04, 11:50 AM
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Originally posted by scotty305
While we're on the subject, does anyone use alternative filters? The filter from the 2nd-gen turbo II fits, as well as the one from the 626. Both have a larger capacity (and larger filter surface area) than the stock filter, with the Turbo II filter being the biggest.

Are there any other things to consider besides volume of the filter? I'm assuming that since all are PureOne filters, they should be just as effective in filtering. Would the Turbo II's have a different pressure rating or anything else I haven't considered?

-s-

Im using the filter from the 626. It is quite bigger in size. The only reason I use it is because Tri-Point put one on when they did my rebuild and I have been using them since.
Old 05-04-04, 11:52 AM
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Originally posted by DamonB
No, they're fine. It's the $2.99 filters that are cheap. Cough *most Frams* cough, cough

I've been using the Pure One's for years and I let the engine cool about an hour and then remove the oil filter. Haven't had any oil run out of one and make a mess yet.

I stated my previous question because you said that the cheap filters don't have that anit-drawback valve, and from what I can tell, the OEM Mazda filters don't have it either.
Old 05-04-04, 11:54 AM
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Originally posted by DamonB
I use oil filters from the MX-6, not sure if the TII is the same. The MX-6 filter is taller and lots of people go with a bigger filter so there is more filter area just as you said. It does make it much tighter though as there is barely enough room to clear the TPS when removing/installing the filter. In fact I have to unplug my TPS in order to have room to remove/install the filter.
I have the Greddy oil filter block adapter on my car, so you have to unplug the TPS harness to get the STOCK oil filter out, so no larger filter for me.....
Old 05-04-04, 12:00 PM
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Originally posted by Fumanchu
from what I can tell, the OEM Mazda filters don't have it either.
The OEM Maza filters most certainly do have the anti-drainback valve in them.
Old 05-04-04, 12:00 PM
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I believe the OEM Mazda FD filter does have the valve. The Moble 1 filter has it as well.

Mobile 1 filter and oil all the way, don't cheap out for anything less.
Old 05-04-04, 12:10 PM
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Originally posted by DamonB
The OEM Maza filters most certainly do have the anti-drainback valve in them.
Well, if they have the anti-drainback valve .......... perhaps it should be re-named. Maybe they should call it the "if-you-let-it-drain-over-night-it-will-be-empty-valve". My oem filters are always empty when I change them.
Old 05-04-04, 12:13 PM
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Originally posted by scotty305
Here's the text of an email I got a while ago, a little humor for all the people who might be tempted to deem this thread a 'waste of bandwith.'


> Yet another Man vs Woman Comparison:
>
> Men:
> 1. Go to AutoZone auto parts and write a check for $50 for oil,
> filter, oil lift (AKA kitty litter), hand cleaner and scented
> tree.
> 2. Discover that the used oil container is full. Instead of
> taking back to AutoZone to recycle, dump in hole in back yard.
> 3. Open a beer and drink it.
> 4. Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
> 5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
> 6. In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
> 7. Place drain pan under engine.
> 8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
> 9. Give up and use crescent wrench.
> 10. Unscrew drain plug.
> 11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil; get hot oil on you in
> process.
> 12. Clean up.
> 13. Have another beer while oil is draining.
> 14. Look for oil filter wrench.
> 15. Give up; poke oil filter with Phillips screwdriver and
> twist it off.
> 16. Beer.
> 17. Buddy shows up; finish case with him. Finish oil change
> tomorrow.
> 18. Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car.
> 19. Throw oil lift (AKA kitty litter) on oil spilled during
> step 18.
> 20. Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
> 21. Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
> 22. Install new oil filter making sure to apply thin coat of
> clean oil to gasket first.
> 23. Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
> 24. Remember drain plug from step 11.
> 25. Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
> 26. Hurry to replace drain plug before the whole quart of fresh
> oil drains onto floor.
> 27. Slip with wrench and bang knuckles on frame.
> 28. Bang head on floorboard in reaction.
> 29. Begin cussing fit.!@$#@##&%*@!!!!!
> 30. Throw wrench.
> 31. Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss
> December (1992) in the left boob.
> 32. Clean up; apply Band-Aid to knuckle.
> 33. Beer.
> 34. Beer.
> 35. Dump in additional 4 quarts of oil.
> 36. Beer.
> 37. Lower car from jack stands
> 38. Accidentally crush one of the jack stands
> 39. Move car back to apply more oil lift (AKA kitty litter) to
> fresh oil spilled during step 23.
> 40. Drive car quart low for 7000 miles when it'll be time for
> another oil change.
>
> Women:
> 1. Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 since
> the last oil change.
> 2. Drink a cup of coffee.
> 3. 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly
> maintained vehicle.


PS, take an Auto Shop class, all owners of 3rd-Gen's should already be able to change their oil without spilling or getting dirty. It should be a pre-purchase requirement or something.
That, was f'ing hilarious.
Old 05-04-04, 06:03 PM
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thanks for all the info guys... but damn, i'm still a bit confused. Anyone near the Los Angeles County area/ Orange County area want to show me going to change their oil soon? I wanna watch and learn

Last edited by jajiddam; 05-04-04 at 06:27 PM.


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