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how do you do your own oil change??

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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:00 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by Fumanchu
from what I can tell, the OEM Mazda filters don't have it either.
The OEM Maza filters most certainly do have the anti-drainback valve in them.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:00 PM
  #27  
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I believe the OEM Mazda FD filter does have the valve. The Moble 1 filter has it as well.

Mobile 1 filter and oil all the way, don't cheap out for anything less.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by DamonB
The OEM Maza filters most certainly do have the anti-drainback valve in them.
Well, if they have the anti-drainback valve .......... perhaps it should be re-named. Maybe they should call it the "if-you-let-it-drain-over-night-it-will-be-empty-valve". My oem filters are always empty when I change them.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 12:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by scotty305
Here's the text of an email I got a while ago, a little humor for all the people who might be tempted to deem this thread a 'waste of bandwith.'


> Yet another Man vs Woman Comparison:
>
> Men:
> 1. Go to AutoZone auto parts and write a check for $50 for oil,
> filter, oil lift (AKA kitty litter), hand cleaner and scented
> tree.
> 2. Discover that the used oil container is full. Instead of
> taking back to AutoZone to recycle, dump in hole in back yard.
> 3. Open a beer and drink it.
> 4. Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
> 5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
> 6. In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
> 7. Place drain pan under engine.
> 8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
> 9. Give up and use crescent wrench.
> 10. Unscrew drain plug.
> 11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil; get hot oil on you in
> process.
> 12. Clean up.
> 13. Have another beer while oil is draining.
> 14. Look for oil filter wrench.
> 15. Give up; poke oil filter with Phillips screwdriver and
> twist it off.
> 16. Beer.
> 17. Buddy shows up; finish case with him. Finish oil change
> tomorrow.
> 18. Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car.
> 19. Throw oil lift (AKA kitty litter) on oil spilled during
> step 18.
> 20. Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
> 21. Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
> 22. Install new oil filter making sure to apply thin coat of
> clean oil to gasket first.
> 23. Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
> 24. Remember drain plug from step 11.
> 25. Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
> 26. Hurry to replace drain plug before the whole quart of fresh
> oil drains onto floor.
> 27. Slip with wrench and bang knuckles on frame.
> 28. Bang head on floorboard in reaction.
> 29. Begin cussing fit.!@$#@##&%*@!!!!!
> 30. Throw wrench.
> 31. Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss
> December (1992) in the left boob.
> 32. Clean up; apply Band-Aid to knuckle.
> 33. Beer.
> 34. Beer.
> 35. Dump in additional 4 quarts of oil.
> 36. Beer.
> 37. Lower car from jack stands
> 38. Accidentally crush one of the jack stands
> 39. Move car back to apply more oil lift (AKA kitty litter) to
> fresh oil spilled during step 23.
> 40. Drive car quart low for 7000 miles when it'll be time for
> another oil change.
>
> Women:
> 1. Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 since
> the last oil change.
> 2. Drink a cup of coffee.
> 3. 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly
> maintained vehicle.


PS, take an Auto Shop class, all owners of 3rd-Gen's should already be able to change their oil without spilling or getting dirty. It should be a pre-purchase requirement or something.
That, was f'ing hilarious.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 06:03 PM
  #30  
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thanks for all the info guys... but damn, i'm still a bit confused. Anyone near the Los Angeles County area/ Orange County area want to show me going to change their oil soon? I wanna watch and learn

Last edited by jajiddam; May 4, 2004 at 06:27 PM.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 06:10 PM
  #31  
rynberg's Avatar
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Man, no offense, but if you are having this much trouble changing the oil, you are in for a ROUGH time owning this car.....
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Old May 4, 2004 | 06:26 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by rynberg
Man, no offense, but if you are having this much trouble changing the oil, you are in for a ROUGH time owning this car.....
well, not neccesarily having trouble, I just want to make sure I do it the correct way. I'm sure there are some people that messed something up while doing it for the first time
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Old May 4, 2004 | 06:35 PM
  #33  
rynberg's Avatar
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I understand that you want to do it right but it's a pretty simple maintenance item. The only thing you REALLY have to remember is to a) put drain plug back in before refilling with oil and b) refill oil.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:42 PM
  #34  
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Won't mention any experiences like when I was in high school and drained the transmission oil on my '64 Falcon, then put 4 qts of oil in the crankcase.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 09:52 PM
  #35  
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From: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Originally posted by jajiddam
well, not neccesarily having trouble, I just want to make sure I do it the correct way. I'm sure there are some people that messed something up while doing it for the first time
You should buy a mazda factory service manual. There is very good info, with pictures, on how to perform maintenence on your car.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally posted by rynberg
Man, no offense, but if you are having this much trouble changing the oil, you are in for a ROUGH time owning this car.....
My thoughts exactly as soon as this thread popped up.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:23 PM
  #37  
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Does anyone else use 20/50, Castrol to be exact. That is what i have used for years, any reason not to? What do you guys think is the best filter/oil combo, non-syn?
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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally posted by pstnh8r
Does anyone else use 20/50, Castrol to be exact. That is what i have used for years, any reason not to? What do you guys think is the best filter/oil combo, non-syn?
I put only castrol GTX 20W/50 in my car since i bought it.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:46 PM
  #39  
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Yes sir, ne1 else?
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Old May 5, 2004 | 06:48 AM
  #40  
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Originally posted by pstnh8r
Yes sir, ne1 else?
Castrol 10W-30
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Old May 5, 2004 | 07:00 AM
  #41  
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Originally posted by jajiddam
well, not neccesarily having trouble, I just want to make sure I do it the correct way. I'm sure there are some people that messed something up while doing it for the first time
Everyone has their first dont worry my first was 2 trips to the auto parts to get the proper size oil filter clamp to remove it and get frustrater and did the phillips screw driver thing. Finally now Ive learned better and make sure that I put it on and not anyone else no matter how easy it is to get to.
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Old May 5, 2004 | 07:01 AM
  #42  
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Originally posted by DamonB
Castrol 10W-30
Damon isnt 20-50 better for warm climates? Here in Miami where I see 90+ degree days daily the oil pressure just hangs to low for that thin of an oil. =/
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Old May 5, 2004 | 07:47 AM
  #43  
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Originally posted by Fatman0203
Damon isnt 20-50 better for warm climates? Here in Miami where I see 90+ degree days daily the oil pressure just hangs to low for that thin of an oil. =/
10w-30 is fine for warmer climates driving on the streets. However, when you do track days, I would recommend the 20w-50.
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Old May 5, 2004 | 10:42 AM
  #44  
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Watch out for the hose on the MAP sensor when replacing the oil filter. Your motor will run like crap if that hose gets disconnected. Turn the car off, plug it back up, and you'll be good to go.
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Old May 5, 2004 | 10:46 AM
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o and for florida weather i use valvoline VR1 20w-50. its like a miracle oil. cooler temps than mobile 1 or maybe there was just sumthin wrong with my motor because the coolant seals did quit on me about 15,000-20,000 miles after switchin to VR1
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Old May 5, 2004 | 12:24 PM
  #46  
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Originally posted by rynberg
I understand that you want to do it right but it's a pretty simple maintenance item. The only thing you REALLY have to remember is to a) put drain plug back in before refilling with oil and b) refill oil.
and c) make sure you remembered to install the new filter after removing the old one. Especially before you start the car back up.

Don't ask me how I know this.

-b
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Old May 5, 2004 | 01:52 PM
  #47  
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Originally posted by DamonB
If so then you are using cheap oil filters without the anti-drainback valve. It's a one way valve that traps oil in the filter so oil arrives to the engine sooner at startup. They hold the oil and don't drip when you remove them. In fact you can shake the filter and feel the oil inside it, but it doesn't come out........

....Oil capacity on a car with dual oil coolers is 5 quarts. The pan however only holds 4 (3.8?) so that's all you get out when you change the oil. I drain the pan and dump 4 quarts back in whenever I change oil.
No FD filter should dump oil when removed, hot or cold. All usual brands I checked have the anti-drainback function. For our upside-down mount, this only prevents oil from draining back through the pump. Oil can drain from both inside and outside the pleated element, through the central thread-on port to down stream points like e-shaft brgs. Filters come off nearly empty.

For R1's, simple drain (and filter chg) replaces about 75% of the oil. For purists, a second oil change ( leave filter on) after running fully warmed up for a while will net out at about 94% of the old oil removed.
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Old May 5, 2004 | 02:26 PM
  #48  
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I might be able to help you with that oil change, check your PM's bro.

-s-
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Old May 11, 2004 | 04:11 AM
  #49  
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use nippon deso oil filter
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Old Jun 26, 2004 | 07:25 AM
  #50  
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Originally posted by wrankin
and c) make sure you remembered to install the new filter after removing the old one. Especially before you start the car back up.

Don't ask me how I know this.

-b
and
d) make sure you understand that the oil cooling system has a larger capacity then what you refill, since there is oil that stays in the cooler(s). 4 quarts, then check.

Oil changing 101 is to slightly underfill, then top off after you start the car, let it rest and then see what it needs.

We have had 2 people in the last month drain an FD and put 5+ quarts back in it.
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