How to do a Steam Clean Tutorial W/pics
07-22-10, 08:21 AM
#26
For those that have not done this yet get a 10' or so vac hose. That way you can start the car and rev it yourself watching the tach, and put the gallon of water right outside the driver door, drop in the tube and start pumping water from there. If the turbo is moving much than you'll lose the vacuum and wont suck as much water. I think that way my problem. Keep the revs lower and you will not have as much of a heat issue either.
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systemid1 (06-22-19)
07-22-10, 11:51 AM
#30
I am now rebuilding that motor because it gunked up all the carbon into rock hard sticky carbon. Every single hard seal was stuck down. I had to literally pry every single seal out. And in most cases, they were so stuck, i had to break them out.
I will NEVER use sea foam again.
07-23-10, 03:13 PM
#32
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Not necessarily on the same car 
I've been running water injection since 2006 so stopped doing it as frequently on my FD. I have performed it on many different customer cars as well as my dad's FD over the years however.
I've been running water injection since 2006 so stopped doing it as frequently on my FD. I have performed it on many different customer cars as well as my dad's FD over the years however.
07-23-10, 06:08 PM
#34
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Alright, will add this to my to do list :-) Couple quick questions though.
1) When doing 1 rotor at a time, it simply is just using one vacuum line instead of both correct?
2) Is this safe on a stock cat? Anyone success/horror stories?
1 gallon per rotor or 2 gallons when doing both at once.... What "signs" would tell one to stop and abort the mission?
1) When doing 1 rotor at a time, it simply is just using one vacuum line instead of both correct?
2) Is this safe on a stock cat? Anyone success/horror stories?
1 gallon per rotor or 2 gallons when doing both at once.... What "signs" would tell one to stop and abort the mission?
07-23-10, 06:25 PM
#35
1) yes one vac on one uim nipple at a time.
2) I've heard of people saying it cleans it out and then others with aftermarket ones saying not to let it get too hot.
3) If you see your cat glowing red....i'd say stop. But most exhaust components glow red at WOT on the track anyways... Just use your better judgement....and if you don't have any... maybe don't attempt the steam clean..but you should be alright!
2) I've heard of people saying it cleans it out and then others with aftermarket ones saying not to let it get too hot.
3) If you see your cat glowing red....i'd say stop. But most exhaust components glow red at WOT on the track anyways... Just use your better judgement....and if you don't have any... maybe don't attempt the steam clean..but you should be alright!
07-23-10, 10:12 PM
#36
Alright, will add this to my to do list :-) Couple quick questions though.
1) When doing 1 rotor at a time, it simply is just using one vacuum line instead of both correct?
2) Is this safe on a stock cat? Anyone success/horror stories?
1 gallon per rotor or 2 gallons when doing both at once.... What "signs" would tell one to stop and abort the mission?
1) When doing 1 rotor at a time, it simply is just using one vacuum line instead of both correct?
2) Is this safe on a stock cat? Anyone success/horror stories?
1 gallon per rotor or 2 gallons when doing both at once.... What "signs" would tell one to stop and abort the mission?
I think I was revving too much which may have contributed to the cat heat. You will have more vac and ingest water faster if you can keep the engine at lower RPMs. 3000 worked fine for me, I should not have bothered revving past that.
If you have a friend to help that would be good. He/She can keep an eye on the cat, or hold the throttle steady for you while you watch everything. Other than the cats getting hot it's really easy. The engine is going to stumble but thats it.
07-25-10, 08:58 PM
#37
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Just wondering guys... I haven't though of this for long but I don't see what could go wrong.
Has anyone done it using a long vacuum line BUT while on the road???
On the highway, keeping the RPM at 3k???
With everything engaged... The engine has almost no chance to stall...
I'm just thinking it should solve any "heat" issues,
Has anyone done it using a long vacuum line BUT while on the road???
On the highway, keeping the RPM at 3k???
With everything engaged... The engine has almost no chance to stall...
I'm just thinking it should solve any "heat" issues,
07-25-10, 09:44 PM
#38
Just wondering guys... I haven't though of this for long but I don't see what could go wrong.
Has anyone done it using a long vacuum line BUT while on the road???
On the highway, keeping the RPM at 3k???
With everything engaged... The engine has almost no chance to stall...
I'm just thinking it should solve any "heat" issues,
Has anyone done it using a long vacuum line BUT while on the road???
On the highway, keeping the RPM at 3k???
With everything engaged... The engine has almost no chance to stall...
I'm just thinking it should solve any "heat" issues,
07-27-10, 10:04 AM
#40
Just wondering guys... I haven't though of this for long but I don't see what could go wrong.
Has anyone done it using a long vacuum line BUT while on the road???
On the highway, keeping the RPM at 3k???
With everything engaged... The engine has almost no chance to stall...
I'm just thinking it should solve any "heat" issues,
Has anyone done it using a long vacuum line BUT while on the road???
On the highway, keeping the RPM at 3k???
With everything engaged... The engine has almost no chance to stall...
I'm just thinking it should solve any "heat" issues,
Definitly not. When your driving your motor will be experiencing load. Pumping a bunch of water in there while driving will cause some big problems...
07-27-10, 10:55 AM
#42
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Yeah I'm aware of that... Of course a misfiring engine + water presence under load doesn't sound right....
Although I don't even think my engine needs it anyway (It's the original build with only 50000km and miticulous maintenance). I just find it interesting to think about!
Please don't go thinking I'm crazy or stupid, I'm making this a "brain" challenge!
I'm not jumping to any conclusion but what I'm debating is this: At a steady speed on the road, with engine also reving at a "controled steady" RPM... We also could, in a way, say that there is almost no load as the moving car also makes the engine spin (compression acting as decelaration force).
I would definitely not try it unless a few other brains also tried to analyze all the physics involved and we all came up with the same conclusion!
First question being: Should we "really" consider the engine under load?
When stationary, we only rely on explosion to keep it running...
When moving, we have two sources of energy...
Please, help me support or tear this theory apart!!!
Although I don't even think my engine needs it anyway (It's the original build with only 50000km and miticulous maintenance). I just find it interesting to think about!
Please don't go thinking I'm crazy or stupid, I'm making this a "brain" challenge!
I'm not jumping to any conclusion but what I'm debating is this: At a steady speed on the road, with engine also reving at a "controled steady" RPM... We also could, in a way, say that there is almost no load as the moving car also makes the engine spin (compression acting as decelaration force).
I would definitely not try it unless a few other brains also tried to analyze all the physics involved and we all came up with the same conclusion!
First question being: Should we "really" consider the engine under load?
When stationary, we only rely on explosion to keep it running...
When moving, we have two sources of energy...
Please, help me support or tear this theory apart!!!
07-27-10, 12:42 PM
#43
I just went outside to do this, and then quickly realized, I don't have a vacuum nipple to do both rotors in the manifold (TII). Only one for the rear rotor.
I do have vacuum nipples closer to the throttle body in the intake manifold. But I think the water will puddle up and not make it to the motor. But if these would work. They would get both rotors at the same time...
Any one try it this way?
I do have vacuum nipples closer to the throttle body in the intake manifold. But I think the water will puddle up and not make it to the motor. But if these would work. They would get both rotors at the same time...
Any one try it this way?
07-27-10, 01:07 PM
#44
I just went outside to do this, and then quickly realized, I don't have a vacuum nipple to do both rotors in the manifold (TII). Only one for the rear rotor.
I do have vacuum nipples closer to the throttle body in the intake manifold. But I think the water will puddle up and not make it to the motor. But if these would work. They would get both rotors at the same time...
Any one try it this way?
I do have vacuum nipples closer to the throttle body in the intake manifold. But I think the water will puddle up and not make it to the motor. But if these would work. They would get both rotors at the same time...
Any one try it this way?
07-27-10, 02:40 PM
#45
The thing is, I only have a vacuum source to the rear rotor on the lower intake manifold. Not to the front rotor. So technically I cannot do one at a time. I would have to use a vacuum source further up in the intake manifold closer to the throttle body. Which would do both at the same time anyways....
So I'm wondering if the water will make it through the plenum without puddling up.
So I'm wondering if the water will make it through the plenum without puddling up.
07-28-10, 06:03 AM
#48
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^ I would say try it. Any water should be removed pretty quickly when you go for a drive afterwards. Many people inject water/meth before the manifold and do not have any issues.
I tried this last night with my FD. I only used two liters of water. Nothing really different to report. My cat glowed, my oil looked F'ing disgusting, and my magnetic drain plug was caked with ****. - this was my first oil change since adding the magnetic plug so I can't compare if it was that bad as a result of the steam clean or something else.
I do not track my vacuum often because I reply on my profec b, and pfc to give me the numbers. I have been told both of those are not completely accurate but they both showed slightly higher vacuum.
Its worth noting that my engine is pretty new, and I run water in my meth kit.
I tried this last night with my FD. I only used two liters of water. Nothing really different to report. My cat glowed, my oil looked F'ing disgusting, and my magnetic drain plug was caked with ****. - this was my first oil change since adding the magnetic plug so I can't compare if it was that bad as a result of the steam clean or something else.
I do not track my vacuum often because I reply on my profec b, and pfc to give me the numbers. I have been told both of those are not completely accurate but they both showed slightly higher vacuum.
Its worth noting that my engine is pretty new, and I run water in my meth kit.
07-28-10, 11:27 AM
#50
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I know but the water can still collect or pool. Similar to oil collecting in the intercooler.
I believe any water in the manifold would be burned off in a matter of minutes.
I believe any water in the manifold would be burned off in a matter of minutes.