how do i unflood my car
11-27-03, 04:53 PM
#2
To "un-flood" the car, you could just let it sit until the gas evaporates. If that doesn't work, pull the spark plugs, and turn the car over by hand (not ingnition) a couple of times while in neutral. Then let it sit for a while to dry out. Bad plugs could cause misfiring.
11-27-03, 05:03 PM
#3
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best quick way to get the car started is to put the pedel to the floor and hold it there, then crank till it starts.. (not long enough to blow the starter) By doing this you open the throttle body and let the air run the gas through the engine.
good luck
good luck
11-27-03, 11:08 PM
#4
The Power of 1.3
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Put it in 1st gear, put the clutch in, push it to ~10mph, let the clutch out. It'll start, run rough for a few minutes, then be good to go.
But the real issue to address is why did it flood.
But the real issue to address is why did it flood.
11-28-03, 03:26 AM
#5
911GT2...will this not harm the catalyst ?
Anyhow, a very good unflooding procedure is decribed in www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
As 911GT2 said quite wisely, the real issue is addressing why it flooded in the 1st place
Good luck
Anyhow, a very good unflooding procedure is decribed in www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
As 911GT2 said quite wisely, the real issue is addressing why it flooded in the 1st place
Good luck
11-28-03, 04:15 PM
#7
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Originally posted by WaachBack
No it will not harm the cat.....
No it will not harm the cat.....
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11-28-03, 10:08 PM
#8
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I just solved a flooded engine on my car today after 3 weeks of thinking something serious was wrong.I pull theIt still didn't start,I did that about four times.Finally tonight I towed the car put it in 3rd released the clutch and when it got to about 30mph it finally started.I was skeptical about towing it but it works!
11-29-03, 05:16 AM
#9
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Originally posted by adam c
To "un-flood" the car, you could just let it sit until the gas evaporates. If that doesn't work
To "un-flood" the car, you could just let it sit until the gas evaporates. If that doesn't work
easiest way is to pull the leading plugs (as the trailing holes in the housing are so tiny anyway) disable the fuel pump via the egi fuse, and crank it over a few times. also, change you plugs when putting it back together. hell 2 of them are already out.
how they were telling you to hold the pedal to the floor... that will aslo cut fuel from being injected. (holding pedal to floor)
11-29-03, 08:31 AM
#10
Constant threat
Just do this:
Get in the car, push the gas pedal to the floor.
Turn the key and crank the engine for 15 seconds.
Quit cranking.
Let off the gas.
DON'T TOUCH THE GAS and crank the engine again for 15 seconds.
Repeat above procedure until it starts. Whatever you do, DON'T pump the gas pedal. The key is here is that you have the pedal to the floor prior to turning the key on and cranking the engine, and that you leave it to the floor until you quit cranking and return the key to off.
The car WILL start, it will run rough as hell for a few minutes, and in fact you may find that you have to TAP the gas once it fires to get it to clear up. It really seems like it fires up on only one rotor at first.
I've used the above procedure on my FD and my FC. The FC was notorious for flooding, the FD just does it if I start the car and only run the engine for a few seconds, like running it into the garage from the driveway. This will nearly GUARANTEE a flooding situation.
Get in the car, push the gas pedal to the floor.
Turn the key and crank the engine for 15 seconds.
Quit cranking.
Let off the gas.
DON'T TOUCH THE GAS and crank the engine again for 15 seconds.
Repeat above procedure until it starts. Whatever you do, DON'T pump the gas pedal. The key is here is that you have the pedal to the floor prior to turning the key on and cranking the engine, and that you leave it to the floor until you quit cranking and return the key to off.
The car WILL start, it will run rough as hell for a few minutes, and in fact you may find that you have to TAP the gas once it fires to get it to clear up. It really seems like it fires up on only one rotor at first.
I've used the above procedure on my FD and my FC. The FC was notorious for flooding, the FD just does it if I start the car and only run the engine for a few seconds, like running it into the garage from the driveway. This will nearly GUARANTEE a flooding situation.
11-29-03, 08:57 AM
#12
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I've only flooded once, a long time ago because I stalled the engine while working on it (another story). Since that one time, if I ever need to turn off the car when its still reasonably cold, I rev to 3k for about 15 seconds then turn it off imediately. No flooding.
11-29-03, 09:12 AM
#13
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Originally posted by DaedelGT
I've only flooded once, a long time ago because I stalled the engine while working on it (another story). Since that one time, if I ever need to turn off the car when its still reasonably cold, I rev to 3k for about 15 seconds then turn it off imediately. No flooding.
I've only flooded once, a long time ago because I stalled the engine while working on it (another story). Since that one time, if I ever need to turn off the car when its still reasonably cold, I rev to 3k for about 15 seconds then turn it off imediately. No flooding.
11-29-03, 11:40 AM
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Awh, you guys are no fun. Have him inject a small shot of ATF into each rotor (L plug hole). Then try to start. It's soo fun to generate fog banks!
Yes, avoid flooding. Do everything you can to avoid flooding. It's so hard to unflood an RX-7. Like, how in the world do I pull the plugs if I can't run the car onto 2X4s so I can jack it up, so I can get at the plugs ;-). Catch 22?
Yes, avoid flooding. Do everything you can to avoid flooding. It's so hard to unflood an RX-7. Like, how in the world do I pull the plugs if I can't run the car onto 2X4s so I can jack it up, so I can get at the plugs ;-). Catch 22?
11-29-03, 12:43 PM
#15
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Fog banks are cool but there's a debate about the atf on the rings........ I've used it and works good though.
you should be able to unplug the fuel pump/computer just like in the FC. Then turn it over a couple of times.
you should be able to unplug the fuel pump/computer just like in the FC. Then turn it over a couple of times.
11-29-03, 03:06 PM
#16
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Originally posted by David Beale
Awh, you guys are no fun. Have him inject a small shot of ATF into each rotor (L plug hole). Then try to start. It's soo fun to generate fog banks!
Yes, avoid flooding. Do everything you can to avoid flooding. It's so hard to unflood an RX-7. Like, how in the world do I pull the plugs if I can't run the car onto 2X4s so I can jack it up, so I can get at the plugs ;-). Catch 22?
Awh, you guys are no fun. Have him inject a small shot of ATF into each rotor (L plug hole). Then try to start. It's soo fun to generate fog banks!
Yes, avoid flooding. Do everything you can to avoid flooding. It's so hard to unflood an RX-7. Like, how in the world do I pull the plugs if I can't run the car onto 2X4s so I can jack it up, so I can get at the plugs ;-). Catch 22?
11-29-03, 05:14 PM
#17
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Actually, if I ever flood mine I think I'll use 2 stroke oil and inject it at the boost gauge port on the UIM.
It's the RX-8 guys I pity. Their plugs are real hard to get at, I'm told, and there is nowhere to inject oil on the intake manifold.
It's the RX-8 guys I pity. Their plugs are real hard to get at, I'm told, and there is nowhere to inject oil on the intake manifold.
12-01-03, 05:18 AM
#23
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an FC is much easier IMO. you dont even have to get out of the car or pop the hood. under the dash above the gas pedal, there is a silver box (relay) with a group of wires going into it. unplug it and start cranking the motor. should finaly fire up and start. if you are good.... you cna plug the relay back in intime and catch the motor to keep it running. if you are not good.... let the motor die, plug it back in and it should fire up first time.
if you find that your injectors are leaking (very common on 2nd gens) then you may want to wire in a switch that would shut power to the relay that you can easily flip on/off without reaching very far. (read...under the dash all twisted up like your playing twister
)
under the dash above the gas pedal, there is a silver box (relay) with a group of wires going into it. unplug it and start cranking the motor. should finaly fire up and start. if you are good.... you cna plug the relay back in intime and catch the motor to keep it running. if you are not good.... let the motor die, plug it back in and it should fire up first time. if you find that your injectors are leaking (very common on 2nd gens) then you may want to wire in a switch that would shut power to the relay that you can easily flip on/off without reaching very far. (read...under the dash all twisted up like your playing twister
)
12-01-03, 10:18 AM
#24
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The proper procedure is to hold the gas pedal down and crank for 15-20 secs. This shuts off the fuel to the engine and allows it to clear itself. This is coming from the FSM.
Marc
Marc
12-01-03, 10:37 AM
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This pedal to the metal will not work on the first run of 2nd gens or on 1st gens. You are right that it is in the manual, however. It isn't a very good procedure, as it takes forever to get it to clear, and in some cases just doesn't work (perhaps leaking injectors or some other fault such as poor compression). In these cases, a tablespoon (what a measurement!) of 2 stroke oil into the boost gauge port on the UIM will usually suffice.
As I have already said, it's often so hard to recover from flooding, avoid it. Warm up the engine before shutting it off. Rev it to 3-4k and shut off so coast down will clear it out.
BTW, the RX-8 does have a place to add oil - where the brake booster picks off vacuum from the manifold.
As I have already said, it's often so hard to recover from flooding, avoid it. Warm up the engine before shutting it off. Rev it to 3-4k and shut off so coast down will clear it out.
BTW, the RX-8 does have a place to add oil - where the brake booster picks off vacuum from the manifold.