How to Dissasemble Twin Turbos?
#1
How to Dissasemble Twin Turbos?
Does anybody know a good way to remove the turbo compressor housing from the exhaust housing? I have already removed the six retaining bolts and 3 retaining plates. I have tried a couple shots of pbblaster and smacking it with a ruber mallet, but no luck. Does anything else need to be removed?
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep, there's just those 6 bolts that hold it on, but it is press fit into there.
First off, scribe a mark with how the center section is positioned in relationship to the turbine housing. The center section can rotate in the turbine housing, and it has to be lined up right for the oil and water lines to attach properly.
That said, see if you can rotate the center section a bit, maybe tap it with a hammer. Make sure to not tap it on the flange surface for the oil lines - if that surface isn't perfectly flat, it can have sealing problems.
Twisting it a bit might break it free enough to come loose. If not, thread one or two bolts back in the holes, rotate it so the head of the bolt is touching the side of the oil drain flange, and back the bolt out so it hits that flange. As you work the bolt with the wrench, the bolt will press against the flange and push the turbine housing off.
Last resort, get a 13mm 12 point socket and put it over the "nut' on the turbine wheel itself. Make SURE it's a proper fit for that nut. Attach an extension and tap with a hammer.
Good luck,
Dale
First off, scribe a mark with how the center section is positioned in relationship to the turbine housing. The center section can rotate in the turbine housing, and it has to be lined up right for the oil and water lines to attach properly.
That said, see if you can rotate the center section a bit, maybe tap it with a hammer. Make sure to not tap it on the flange surface for the oil lines - if that surface isn't perfectly flat, it can have sealing problems.
Twisting it a bit might break it free enough to come loose. If not, thread one or two bolts back in the holes, rotate it so the head of the bolt is touching the side of the oil drain flange, and back the bolt out so it hits that flange. As you work the bolt with the wrench, the bolt will press against the flange and push the turbine housing off.
Last resort, get a 13mm 12 point socket and put it over the "nut' on the turbine wheel itself. Make SURE it's a proper fit for that nut. Attach an extension and tap with a hammer.
Good luck,
Dale
#4
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Yep, there's just those 6 bolts that hold it on, but it is press fit into there.
First off, scribe a mark with how the center section is positioned in relationship to the turbine housing. The center section can rotate in the turbine housing, and it has to be lined up right for the oil and water lines to attach properly.
That said, see if you can rotate the center section a bit, maybe tap it with a hammer. Make sure to not tap it on the flange surface for the oil lines - if that surface isn't perfectly flat, it can have sealing problems.
Twisting it a bit might break it free enough to come loose. If not, thread one or two bolts back in the holes, rotate it so the head of the bolt is touching the side of the oil drain flange, and back the bolt out so it hits that flange. As you work the bolt with the wrench, the bolt will press against the flange and push the turbine housing off.
Last resort, get a 13mm 12 point socket and put it over the "nut' on the turbine wheel itself. Make SURE it's a proper fit for that nut. Attach an extension and tap with a hammer.
Good luck,
Dale
First off, scribe a mark with how the center section is positioned in relationship to the turbine housing. The center section can rotate in the turbine housing, and it has to be lined up right for the oil and water lines to attach properly.
That said, see if you can rotate the center section a bit, maybe tap it with a hammer. Make sure to not tap it on the flange surface for the oil lines - if that surface isn't perfectly flat, it can have sealing problems.
Twisting it a bit might break it free enough to come loose. If not, thread one or two bolts back in the holes, rotate it so the head of the bolt is touching the side of the oil drain flange, and back the bolt out so it hits that flange. As you work the bolt with the wrench, the bolt will press against the flange and push the turbine housing off.
Last resort, get a 13mm 12 point socket and put it over the "nut' on the turbine wheel itself. Make SURE it's a proper fit for that nut. Attach an extension and tap with a hammer.
Good luck,
Dale
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Good deal! That's a good trick to solve the problem!
Dale
Dale
#7
Originally Posted by alexdimen
damn, must have gone through some crazy heat cycling or something. mine were nowhere near that hard.
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08-18-15 10:01 PM