how difficult would it be to install a/c after its been removed
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 313
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From: Rochester, NY
how difficult would it be to install a/c after its been removed
I bought my car a few years ago and the previous owner had removed the airconditioning. I have the lines and i believe the compressor, although the pulley needs to be replaced. Has anyone done this, and how much of a PITA will it be? Is it worth installing?
-Mike
oh also, the heat does not work, in fact, no air ever comes out of the vents.....and i don't drive the car in the winter
-Mike
oh also, the heat does not work, in fact, no air ever comes out of the vents.....and i don't drive the car in the winter
Last edited by Androidmj; May 13, 2005 at 10:07 PM.
What it is Hoe, Wussup
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 344
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From: tennessee
i dont have a/c in my car either i have know clue on it but i say after a good 88 degree weather like i have had you will thinks its worth it im sure as hell getting mine put in i aint sweating all summer
It's really not too bad. Remember, Mazda shipped the base and R models to the US with NO air conditioning - it was added at the port. Which means most of the components are relatively simple to get to, all things considered.
You'll have to take stock of what's there and what's not, and what you have. The components of the system are -
- The compressor - this is the pump that bolts to the motor and is driven by the belt.
- The condensor. This is the radiator looking deal in the front of the car.
- The receiver/dryer - this is the metal can up by the battery.
- The evaporator -this is the box in the dash that the air from the fan blows through
- The lines - self explanatory.
If the evaporator is still in the car, that will make your life a LOT easier. From what I know, you have to pull the dash to get to the evaporator - not SUPER duper hard, but a good full day job to do it right.
Get ALL NEW O-rings for ALL the connections in the system. The O-rings are one of the main failure points for freon to leak out. Put some dielectric grease on the O-rings when you install them - that keeps them from tearing on the install and helps get a better seal.
All the piping and everything is aluminum, which means it's not SUPER strong. All the fittings should be snug, but they don't have to be SUPER tight.
Just go one step at a time and put the pieces on. Once it's all together, take it to an AC shop to have them pull the system down to a vacuum and check for leaks. If all is good, have them charge it up with R12 - R12 will cost more, but you'll get the best performance for the system. I've had mine pulled to a vacuum and fully charged with R12 for about $130 out the door - that's really not too pricey. My AC puts out 35 degrees at the vents - it will run you out of the car
.
Good luck,
Dale
You'll have to take stock of what's there and what's not, and what you have. The components of the system are -
- The compressor - this is the pump that bolts to the motor and is driven by the belt.
- The condensor. This is the radiator looking deal in the front of the car.
- The receiver/dryer - this is the metal can up by the battery.
- The evaporator -this is the box in the dash that the air from the fan blows through
- The lines - self explanatory.
If the evaporator is still in the car, that will make your life a LOT easier. From what I know, you have to pull the dash to get to the evaporator - not SUPER duper hard, but a good full day job to do it right.
Get ALL NEW O-rings for ALL the connections in the system. The O-rings are one of the main failure points for freon to leak out. Put some dielectric grease on the O-rings when you install them - that keeps them from tearing on the install and helps get a better seal.
All the piping and everything is aluminum, which means it's not SUPER strong. All the fittings should be snug, but they don't have to be SUPER tight.
Just go one step at a time and put the pieces on. Once it's all together, take it to an AC shop to have them pull the system down to a vacuum and check for leaks. If all is good, have them charge it up with R12 - R12 will cost more, but you'll get the best performance for the system. I've had mine pulled to a vacuum and fully charged with R12 for about $130 out the door - that's really not too pricey. My AC puts out 35 degrees at the vents - it will run you out of the car
.Good luck,
Dale
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