How to adjust idle speed?
06-16-10, 02:45 PM
#1
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How to adjust idle speed?
How do I adjust the idle speed? My smog test was aborted today because my idle was too high. Does anybody know where the idle adjustment screw is or could point me in the right direction to where I can find it in the FSM?
06-16-10, 02:52 PM
#2
Do you even bother searching before making new threads?
------------> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=idle+screw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9q2jNjOPdk
------------> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=idle+screw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9q2jNjOPdk
06-16-10, 04:16 PM
#4
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I did search but all I found was 2nd gen stuff. My idle is at 1300 rpm and when I adjusted the screw under the throttle body, it dropped to 750-800, then after a about 30 seconds or so it raises by itself to 1100 rpm. then if I step on the gas it'll go back to down to 1300 and stay there. If I tap the gas pedal again lightly, it'll drop down to 1100 rpm and stay there. What the ****!
If I had a vacuum leak somewhere you would think it'd stay in one place. Does the engine have to be running while im adjusting the idle speed? Because I was adjusting it when the car was off. The reason why, is because the oil filter gets in the way and I dont see how its possible to adjust the idle with the car running and the oil filter still in the car.
I couldnt find a thread about idle speed in the 3rd gen section but ill post there, thanks
If I had a vacuum leak somewhere you would think it'd stay in one place. Does the engine have to be running while im adjusting the idle speed? Because I was adjusting it when the car was off. The reason why, is because the oil filter gets in the way and I dont see how its possible to adjust the idle with the car running and the oil filter still in the car.
I couldnt find a thread about idle speed in the 3rd gen section but ill post there, thanks
06-16-10, 05:20 PM
#6
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Im not gonna **** with the TPS. last time I did that I had to have it properly readjusted at the dealer because I couldnt figure it out. The TPS should still be perfect, because since they fixed it, I didnt mess with any adjustment.
Could it have anything to do with the FC thermoswitch???? My engine temps right now are about 180 degrees when fully warm. Could the FC thermoswitch have anything to do with idle speed?? This ****** bitch will pass smog if I can get the ****** idle back down, this is ******* bullshit!!!!!!!!!
Could it have anything to do with the FC thermoswitch???? My engine temps right now are about 180 degrees when fully warm. Could the FC thermoswitch have anything to do with idle speed?? This ****** bitch will pass smog if I can get the ****** idle back down, this is ******* bullshit!!!!!!!!!
06-16-10, 07:06 PM
#7
When you typed that were you jumping up in down in one spot, flailing your hands around and screaming? It sounds like you're having a temper tantrum, why are you cussing so much?
If you're running a PFC check your idle settings. Getting the car to idle under 1000 RPMs really shouldn't be that difficult. Check for vacuum leaks?
If you're running a PFC check your idle settings. Getting the car to idle under 1000 RPMs really shouldn't be that difficult. Check for vacuum leaks?
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06-16-10, 07:54 PM
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Im mad because today is the last day I can smog my car before I have to file for non operation. If I dont get it smogged today (which now is too late) Idk whats gonna happen I guess ill have to find out.
The rpms see to have its mind set on 1300 idk why. I tried turning on the headlights and all electrical loads and the rpms dont increase at all, they stay the same pretty much. Maby I can file for non operation online i'll give it a shot.
I dont have a PFC I have a stock ecu. I just recently finished a full vacuum hose job with silicone, and Dales viton check valves and tested all the solenoid valves replacing the bad ones as necessary. I dont think I have any vacuum leaks but I can take a look I suppose.
The rpms see to have its mind set on 1300 idk why. I tried turning on the headlights and all electrical loads and the rpms dont increase at all, they stay the same pretty much. Maby I can file for non operation online i'll give it a shot.
I dont have a PFC I have a stock ecu. I just recently finished a full vacuum hose job with silicone, and Dales viton check valves and tested all the solenoid valves replacing the bad ones as necessary. I dont think I have any vacuum leaks but I can take a look I suppose.
06-16-10, 07:59 PM
#9
The Air Adjusting Screw is located on the TB, under the intake elbow.
The intake elbow is attached to the TB by 4 nuts, 2 on top, 2 on the bottom. The AAS is located just to the left of the bottom nut that is closest to the firewall. On a stock car, there is a black canister for the crankcase crap that attatches to the bottom screws. But the canister has a cutout to allow access to the AAS.
It might help to remove the elbow and visualize where it is, then put it back on and run the car to set the idle. I didn't have to do that, I just felt around with my fingers until I found it.
You need a fairly long flathead screwdriver to adjust.
Clockwise rotation closes the AAS and reduces the idle.
I set my idle at around 950 for the smog test, since from past experience it runs cleaner at a higher idle. Our legal limit here is 1100 rpm.
The intake elbow is attached to the TB by 4 nuts, 2 on top, 2 on the bottom. The AAS is located just to the left of the bottom nut that is closest to the firewall. On a stock car, there is a black canister for the crankcase crap that attatches to the bottom screws. But the canister has a cutout to allow access to the AAS.
It might help to remove the elbow and visualize where it is, then put it back on and run the car to set the idle. I didn't have to do that, I just felt around with my fingers until I found it.
You need a fairly long flathead screwdriver to adjust.
Clockwise rotation closes the AAS and reduces the idle.
I set my idle at around 950 for the smog test, since from past experience it runs cleaner at a higher idle. Our legal limit here is 1100 rpm.
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06-16-10, 11:17 PM
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I tried this above /\, and it and that screw is already maxed out and wont go any further. When the car is cold, the idle will be perfect EXACTLY to oem spec (750-900 I believe is OEM spec) and then once the car warms up, the idle goes up to 1300 rpm. However if you do things like: tap the gas pedal a few times, turn on some electrical loads then turn them back off, or gently press on the shifter in neutral without pressing the clutch pedal, the 1300 rpm drops to about 1000 rpm and will stay there steadily.
At 1000 rpm im ok for the smog test, but idk if itll decide to go back to 1300 it really has a mind of it's own
After searching a while (Ya I know thank God right?
) I found out that some FD owners reported that their throttle cable was too tight but how would I check that, I don't see a way to adjust it?
At 1000 rpm im ok for the smog test, but idk if itll decide to go back to 1300 it really has a mind of it's own
After searching a while (Ya I know thank God right?
) I found out that some FD owners reported that their throttle cable was too tight but how would I check that, I don't see a way to adjust it?
06-17-10, 12:32 PM
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Nope throttle cable is fine and none of the factory adjustments make a difference in improving the idle. I did notice that putting the car in first gear for a few seconds drops the idle a little. then when you put it back in neutral, the idle will drop from 1300 to 1000 rpm everytime. I'll have to go back for a retest and see what they say. The legal limit here is 1200 rpm. That pisses me off that this is a problem I really could care less about 
06-17-10, 12:59 PM
#14
Things to check:
* Check to make sure you have a proper seal between the TB and UIM. Since you just performed all that work on your car, it's possible that the gasket for that connection is old and not providing a good seal (therefore letting air in past the TB)
* Check to make sure your ISC is working correctly
* Above all, recheck your work. If the car wasn't doing this before you tore into the vacuum lines, then it's something you did. Recheck what you did.
* Check to make sure you have a proper seal between the TB and UIM. Since you just performed all that work on your car, it's possible that the gasket for that connection is old and not providing a good seal (therefore letting air in past the TB)
* Check to make sure your ISC is working correctly
* Above all, recheck your work. If the car wasn't doing this before you tore into the vacuum lines, then it's something you did. Recheck what you did.
06-17-10, 01:18 PM
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Ive heard of ppl using throttle body spray to spray on areas like that and if it gets sucked into the engine, then you find the leak and the rpms should change. What kinda stuff should I buy for that?
06-17-10, 04:56 PM
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carb cleaner. any kind will work. there's a large 3 dollar can you can get at autozone. propane also works really well.
just be careful b/c both are flameable. Spray it around the gaskets, and the hoses. the idle will change if there is a leak. just did this on my bonneville. worked like a charm. found the most minute vacuum leak by using carb cleaner. also found a lower intake manifold leak which isn't really a minute leak... but regardless it found both.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH630...eature=related
just be careful b/c both are flameable. Spray it around the gaskets, and the hoses. the idle will change if there is a leak. just did this on my bonneville. worked like a charm. found the most minute vacuum leak by using carb cleaner. also found a lower intake manifold leak which isn't really a minute leak... but regardless it found both.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH630...eature=related
06-18-10, 12:08 PM
#18
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Ernesto13B,
I saw no posts above that mention the correct test conditions for setting idle speed. Did you run the standard procedure? i.e. as follows:
1) Engine at full operating temperature.
2) All accessories off, including lights, air conditioning, and other electrical loads.
3) Primary throttle stop screw set (if necessary) so that primary throttle butterflies are closed but not bearing on the throttle body
4) Secondary throttle stop screw set for secondary butterflies closed, but not bearing on throttle body
5) Diagnostic Connector terminals "TEN" and "GND" jumpered with wire or a paper clip.
For the above conditions, assuming no vacuum leaks, the AAS screw should be settable (while running the engine) for 720 rpm. (At least that's the way my '94 works.) The oil filter is not in the way of the AAS screw, but it's difficult to find by feel; the info in post #9 above is good for that.
You have the idle correctly set when there is no difference in idle speed between having the TEN->GND jumper in or out.
I saw no posts above that mention the correct test conditions for setting idle speed. Did you run the standard procedure? i.e. as follows:
1) Engine at full operating temperature.
2) All accessories off, including lights, air conditioning, and other electrical loads.
3) Primary throttle stop screw set (if necessary) so that primary throttle butterflies are closed but not bearing on the throttle body
4) Secondary throttle stop screw set for secondary butterflies closed, but not bearing on throttle body
5) Diagnostic Connector terminals "TEN" and "GND" jumpered with wire or a paper clip.
For the above conditions, assuming no vacuum leaks, the AAS screw should be settable (while running the engine) for 720 rpm. (At least that's the way my '94 works.) The oil filter is not in the way of the AAS screw, but it's difficult to find by feel; the info in post #9 above is good for that.
You have the idle correctly set when there is no difference in idle speed between having the TEN->GND jumper in or out.
06-18-10, 11:40 PM
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I sprayed some carb cleaner on every single air hose and connection I could find... until I found a HUGE vacuum leak. It appears I have a vacuum leak at the upper intake manifold. I noticed one section when I sprayed the carb cleaner, the idle would become erratic. Just to be sure it wasnt just a coincidence, I tried it a few times and the same thing happened. Everytime I stopped spraying, the idle smoothed out, then while spraying, it became erratic. I also by ear heard a loud whooshing sound coming from there.
I dont know what the hell happened for there to be a leak that big when I replaced the gasket there too, but im gonna have to investigate. I will report back here with results once I find something out.
I dont know what the hell happened for there to be a leak that big when I replaced the gasket there too, but im gonna have to investigate. I will report back here with results once I find something out.
06-19-10, 12:34 AM
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Glad you got a lead on the problem! You could probably just seal up the UIM/LIM with some gray gasket sealer. Should fix the problem. I'm sure others will say "no" but meh :\ .
You'll just have to reapply the sealer when you remove/install in the future. Not a biggie in my book.
Also, when you get that vacuum leak fixed. Spray again and see if any others pop up. It's pretty common for other leaks to spring up once you fix larger ones. Usually the larger ones are sucking in so much air that the smaller ones can go unnoticed. Once you fix the larger one, the smaller ones can start to really cause you to pull out your hair.
You'll just have to reapply the sealer when you remove/install in the future. Not a biggie in my book.
Also, when you get that vacuum leak fixed. Spray again and see if any others pop up. It's pretty common for other leaks to spring up once you fix larger ones. Usually the larger ones are sucking in so much air that the smaller ones can go unnoticed. Once you fix the larger one, the smaller ones can start to really cause you to pull out your hair.
06-19-10, 04:45 AM
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Ok I tried this just now using a thin layer of Permatex black high temp gasket maker on both sides of the new metal gasket and torqued the bolts down to spec. Since i'm **** about it, i'm gonna let it dry a full 24 hours and recheck the idle afterwards.
You know I think the reason its leaking is because I remember sanding down the the corrosion buildup and rust off of the UIM mating surface during my vacuum hose job thinking I was doing a good thing. I may have actually sanded down the corrosion, and revealed the uneven metal underneath. Anyway, ill report back later
You know I think the reason its leaking is because I remember sanding down the the corrosion buildup and rust off of the UIM mating surface during my vacuum hose job thinking I was doing a good thing. I may have actually sanded down the corrosion, and revealed the uneven metal underneath. Anyway, ill report back later
06-20-10, 10:32 AM
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The idle is STILL high but I noticed that the loud whooshing noise I heard was from an air pipe that connects there for the air injection system. Whenever I pressed on the air hose the rpm would go down this is REALLY pissing me off. I removed the hose and im gonna call Ray tommorow to order another one along with new hose clamps and try it again
06-23-10, 07:35 PM
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I tried replacing that hose I was talking about and installing the worm gear style hose clamp to tighten more and it made a slight improvement but the idle is still at 1300 sometimes. Its erratic, sometimes it'll be at 1300, other times itll be at 1000 rpm, other times 750. I noticed that little things like engine temp, electrical loads, and revving the engine can change the idle. I think I have en electrical issue. Heres a video so you guys don't think i'm crazy
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=443659347533
I hope everyone can see the video. I tried putting it on photobucket but the video didnt upload properly
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=443659347533
I hope everyone can see the video. I tried putting it on photobucket but the video didnt upload properly
06-24-10, 01:02 PM
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Went to smog the car just now...Gross polluter again. The air pump is working, but there is a BIG problem somewhere in the air injection system because no 02 is getting to the converter, this is the end of this thread
07-18-10, 10:17 AM
#25
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Problem solved
Just wanted to say that the problem turned out to be a huge vacuum leak coming from the secondary fuel rail, and the fuel injector grommet was missing. This probably happened when I did my vacuum hose job. Its very easy to slip out, or install wrong because you cant see it too well. I wanted to post this just in case anyone has a similar problem.