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Hot-Start problems

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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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Lightbulb Hot-Start problems

Did a search but none fit *all* of my symptoms.

Cold start is fine - no white smoke from the exhaust or a puddle of coolant under the over-flow tank which leads me to believe it's not quite ready for a rebuild. Idle is a little "lumpier" than I remember and my vacuum readings is around 15-16 mmHg. When the car comes to temperature and is shut off for 5-10 minutes, the motor cranks over but doesn't fire up right away. Takes 5-6 attempts for it to catch and fire up.

Just had my 60k tune up 3 months ago so it has relatively new plugs (all 9's) and new fuel filter.

Any ideas?
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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riptor's Avatar
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From: lemoore ca
IIRC i read in one of the other posts that sometimes a faulty injector can cause flooding...due to the injector still alowing fuel to flow even after power is off...i dont remember exactly...but since ur at such low mileage i dont thing that would or sould even b an issue... **** dude im at 50k and mine r still goin strong...lol. so i dont know if that helps dude, but maybe an other idea or starting point at least.. u konw. lol.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:38 AM
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Im havin the same exact symptom. I got 84xxx miles on mine. I eventually have to step on the gas pedal to help start it. If you look up on my past threads, someone mentioned to me that it can possibly be the FPR solenoid. If this problem gets gets figured out please let me know what the cause was.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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Well, I'm dropping it off at my mechanic later today. I'll post the diagnosis as soon as I find out.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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rynberg's Avatar
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It is the FPR or FPR solenoid.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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Is there a way to test whether a FPR or FPR solenoid is bad?
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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Well - had a compression test done and need some input from some of you guys.

Rear Rotor: 7.5, 7.5, 7.6
Front Rotor: 7.4, 7.8, 7.2

The mechanic feels that the large variance between the 7.2 and 7.8, coupled with the poor gas mileage (13mpg) means an apex seal is starting to fade between two faces.

Since the factory spec for the min/max difference is 1.5, I think I'm ok - for now. I'm hoping to get another season out of this motor. What do you guys think?

I bought the viton hose kit a while ago and will try replacing the 70 feet of vacuum line this weekend. Hopefully that will help with the hot start problem.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Svelte_7
vacuum readings is around 15-16 mmHg.
I hope you mean inches of Hg.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 11:14 PM
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Good catch. I meant inches.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 11:43 PM
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I had similar problems after I had some standard maintenance done on my car by a local shop. Later found out that they had put stuff back together wrong under the UIM. I don't remember exactly what all it was, but I do remember that a vacuum hose was switched, something was misrouted, and something else was left disconnected.

Sorry I can't be more descriptive, but the receipt that documented this problem went along with my car when I sold it. My advice is to remove the UIM and check for anything obvious out of place and maybe trace over the vacuum diagram and make sure everything is hooked up correctly.

Regarding your compression numbers, I agree that they seem fine and like you said the variance between faces is within factory spec.

Did this problem just occur recently or did it coincide with the 60k tune-up or other maintenance?
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 12:10 AM
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It started a little bit after my 60k service. I also had emissions to deal with (needed a new cat) so I don't know if that's related somehow. Hopefully it's just a vacuum leak somewhere and that I find it when I do the hose replacement this weekend.
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