well i bought an hks intake dual filter everythign is installed right and where its supose to go, but i got my car on dyno and i got 255hp but onyl 197 to wheels. the intake made me lose HP to the wheels. Its not a codl air because it doesnt come with a box so i'm gunna need to fabricate my own hopefulyl that will increase my numbers on dyno. Any comments or advice would be nice. THnx..

 

Buy my IC and CAI!!!

 

Haha, What are your other mods? Do you have a boost gauge? do you know how much boost your running? A stock car if im not mistaken puts like 230 ish to the wheels which points out that your car is not running right.

Dont bash the intake when your not realising its somthing else in your car, not the intake.

 

Stock the car is only 255 to the flywheel anyway. I can't really see the intake moving much more air than stock... Never really seen any comparisons done though.

You car is also old. How many miles are on the motor? I'm sure it's not the intake that *lost* hp..

 

Something is wrong with your car, the intake has nothing to do with your problem...

 

MY engine is in good shape. Doesnt have low low miles but its not too high, got 70,000. rx7$4$me supsoe to have 230? i hear it was 205.

 

Do you know how much boost your running? what are your mods? Its anywhere from 225-235 im pretty sure ( dyno)

 

No i dont know my boost i ordered a guage, comign in sometime soon. i dont have anymore mods, i'm getting downpipe and exhuast soon but for nwo intake is all

 

Honestly, you can have a boost leak but you won't know until you have a gauge.

Without boost, its like running N/A which honestly sucks for a FD. =P.

 

Besides why didn't you do a run with the old airbox !? How can you say that the HKS is giving you grief, when you didn't do a base run!?

-DC

 

trends show that if you have the stock 93 engine run the hell out of it because you are going to need a rebiuld soon for the internal coolant seals at your mileage.

If you get the boost gauge and you are getting 10psi maybe your coolant seals are already failing because your hp numbers are low. Also your stock precat and cat could be slightly clogged from stock form

What you want for an intake is one that is in a location to recieve fresh air forced through the front end while driving and also to not recieve the hot air of the engine bay. The ntech is the best at this out of all the intakes but it is not offered any more.

 

I have 86 k miles on my motor, and its enough to keep up with an 11.9 forumla ( on slicks) from aroll . My coolant seals show absolutley no signs of failure

 

I always laugh at dyno airbox/filter/cai/etc comparisons/testing.

How does sitting on a dyno with the hood up and a fan providing air give anything like a real-world (real-road) comparison?

But the bottom line is - it's either a dyno or car problem - and it's probably your car. As pointed out, your method of diagnosis is flawed.

 

Stock the FD has 255 at the flywheel. Most places say assume a 15 to 17 percent loss of hp to the rear wheel (lose about 41 to 43 hp), meaning the car in stock form should dyno between 210 and 215. 20 hp lower than than that is a full 10%, something sounds fishy. I don't think the HKS product could be to blame.

 

Stock FDs have generally dynoed out at 220 RWHP, hp at the flywheel means nothing as the manufacturer can rate the car at basically whatever they want.

 

It could be many things.. But 197 isn't too bad.. I would of gotten the downpipe before the intakes.. but that's me..

By my experience, i would do following things in order.. Boost gauge, DP, intake, catback, PFC, IC, MP and boost controller, upgraded Rad...

 

dyno usually involves a fan blowing to the nose to simulate wind at high speed. The hood can be either up or down.

 

196 WHP is very normal for stock FD( Iassume ur car is stock) u will loose 15-20% of power from factory HP. and plus if u got old engine or transmisson u will loose even more due to many reason. cheer up HKS got very good stuff..

 

What is up with the large amount of ignorant posts lately....

A stock FD will dyno from between 210-220 rwhp. There are always exceptions with individual cars (and dynos), but that is the normal range.

RuffRyder: To claim the HKS intake is the cause for your low numbers is funny. Your car obviously has other issues. The first time I dynoed, I hit 180 rwhp on the first run because one of my IC piping couplers slipped partly out of the clamp. Retightened the coupler and put down 240 rwhp (downpipe and cat-back). Get a boost gauge. Even a $20 one from the auto parts store will be pretty close and accurate enough to make sure your boost pattern is correct.

 

I suspect low secondary boost is responsible for the low dyno numbers. If you don't have a boost gauge, get one. If you aren't making 9-11 psi or so at 5000 RPM (trailing off to 8 psi or so at redline), fix the car.

-Max

 

oops I was a little bit off. but thats why I said 225-230 ISH

 

We are talking FOAM filters right?

 

"dyno usually involves a fan blowing to the nose to simulate wind at high speed. The hood can be either up or down."

It has nothing to do with simulating wind (which the average dyno fan has no chance in hell of doing) - it's purely a cooling measure. If a workshop was doing several runs with the hood down, i'd be asking questions straight away.

 

yes foam filters spiritR, well the place where i got dyno'd he didnt even have a fan so i was just sukin in hto air from the garage. Well my boost gauge is coming in soon so i'm gunna check out my numbers i'll let u guys know wut happens. thnx for all the replies. -Ruff

 

So hot air in the garage plus no fan to cool the engine AND the intake box AND the IC means your intake temps were nice and toasty. Ooops, you have the foam filters that just sit in one of the hottest parts of the engine bay, sucking hotter air than if you were using the stock air box. Personally, I think you should look for a better dyno shop AND get cool air to the intakes.

What were you water temps during the pulls? For that matter, are you aware that the stock gauge is NOT telling you anythin meaningful about the water temps? Search for gauge linearize, or put in an aftermarket. Running the engine hard with no air flow across the radiator is a veeeerrrryyy bad idea, and IF the rad fans do come on during a pull, I 'd be curious to know how much HP the engine loses driving the alternator to drive those fans...

Just my unasked for opine...