smg944

iTrader: (34)

installed my hks bov yesterday. works great, sounds great and i get better responce. but when it goes up into higher rpm anything over 5k the bov is not as loud. you only hear a quick psst. is it because of the CR valve? just wondering incase i dont have it set right. i have the spring kind of tight right now but its the same way as when i had it loose....

smg944

iTrader: (34)

anyone...

fdeeznutz

Mine is really loud above 5k. The noise level will depend on how much boost you are running.

RX-187

I really want this BOV but the product description makes it sound as if it was designed to only comply or operate with high boost applications for the vavle to open. So it will open with low(stock) boost? I am just making sure.

fdeeznutz

I run it with no problems. It is very loud and my car is at stock boost. I guess it depends on where you mount it. Mine is close to the t-body

smg944

iTrader: (34)

mine is real loud below 5k , but when i go above 5k its a real quick psst... its still loud but not at loud if i were to do it at 4k.

RX-187

If I want to directly replace my stock one, how would I mount it? It's possible to let it hang in the stock position right?

WVRx7

What is the A & L Racing sticker on the PFS intercooler?

Wasn't that the company of the Adam drag racer guy?

fdeeznutz

Yea that IC was in Adam Sawatari's car. He had it modified to work with his single. He ran low 10's with it so it should be fine for my car

Stevey629

I have a similar question as RX187 does. I have just the BOV. Is there some way to make a flange? or will it not work if you make a flange that would hook up to the Y-pipe? Im thinking if I take a pipe the same diameter as the inlet portion of the Stock BOV, and weld that pipe to an HKS universal flange, it would work. Would it be okay to do it like this? Ive never seen the "kit" that HKS sells for our car in stock form, and I dont have hardpipes or any of that jazz. Im bonestock under the hood aside from an upgraded oil pedestal, air filter K&N drop in, PWR radiator and aluminum AST.

RX7SpiritR

iTrader: (1)

Ok, here is the best thing to do. Get "A" flange for the BOV and have it welded somewhere close to the T-Body or after the IC preferably, really its wherever you want, and just close off the 2 stock BOV's. If you want just weld the whols shut and then you will be running all boost no matter what through that one BOV and you will get better response, trust me. I hope that answered everyone's question.

WVRx7

Not being critical, just curious. I use the same IC in my car. Nothing wrong with it.

fdeeznutz

Yea I know, My friend wanted me to buy his Blitz front mount and said that the PFS SMIC was weak. It wasn't meant towards you.

SanJoRX7

Ok everyone, say it with me, GHETTO.

Don't just let it hang...haul your butt over to the hardware store and find some stock that you can use to create a mounting flange/bracket and get to it.

Stevey629

dont you need to leave the CRV open still though? Why do u need to plug both of them off? I dont quite understand the behavior of the CRV and what its job is as part of the pressure relief system IN RELATION TO THE BOV. Dont you need to leave the CRV there? If I am just going to directly replace the stock BOV, then why mess with the CRV?

RX-187

Hey bro that's what I am going to do but was asking because that's how stock one is positioned. Thanks none the less.

fd3s_rx7

iTrader: (13)

Theres a screw on the back of the HKS SSQ Blow Off Valve.. Try adusting that to make it loud. Thats what I did to make mine very loud now!!!!

Stevey629

alright. this is gonna sound ghetto as all hell, so before I start giving my rice explaination, just be warned that this is by absolute no means permanent until I get the flange for it. Im just interested in the workings of this valve, and if all of these pull type valves act like this, or I am missing something in the install that makes this thing actuate differently.
I dont understand why the HKS valve wont open, or at least doesn't sound like it wants to. Maybe its because I dont have any boost at all and my car runs like its on one rotor, but motor aside, the stock BOV still seems to wanna make plenty of noise when I get OFF the gas even under small loads. I took the stock one out, took the vacuum line off, and the HKS valves INLET for air actually has the same diameter as the outside portion of the hose that holds the stock one. So, I shoved the hose into the HKS valve, hooked up the vacuum line, and it seemed like the valve wouldn't open. With the stock one, a gentle pull on the throttle cable and release will get the thing to actuate. The HKS one doesnt look like it wants to open. I just get a chatter sound from the wastegates from what I believe the sound is, or where its comming from for that matter. I tried loosening the screw on the back of the valve A LOT, and nothing seemed to happen. I tried pushing the valve itself open with my thumb a little bit just so some of the prespool air comes out, and then pulled the throttle cable and let off. It seems like the valve wants to close on my thumb as opposed to opening more. I know the valve is a pull type valve instead of a push type, but why would the valve act like this? Isn't it supposed to "pull" open when you close the throttle off? I would be interested in seeing what the stock "kit" for the HKS valve looks like for our car (picture or explaination?), since I have all stock I/C pipes and stock turbos, and want to see if I can get this thing to work without having to weld and get hardpipes. If I can't, no biggie. I'll just wait till then, but I figure if I have the valve, why not see if I can just do a direct replacement. Ideally, I'd get the flange, and weld a little piece of pipe to it so that the piece will fit inside the stock bov hose. I also have the stock airbox plugged up so I can vent the stocker for now FYI.

Oh, I also have this little plastic thing that came with the valve, that looks like it has two inlets and a disc inbetween them. Does this need to be affixed inbetween the vacuum line somewhere?

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

The CRV needs to be left in the system IF you are still running sequentially. NON- seq. set-up utilizes both as a BOV. Only plug up the BOV hole not the CRV as well.

Stevey629

ya thats what I was assuming. I need to leave the CRV just the way it is, and change the stock bov with the HKS one.

Stevey629

grr. I can't find any installation procedures or what the flange portion looks like online. Im wondering if mine is just broken. Its a hand me down, sorta beat up, but was working fine on my friends MR2 when he had it on.

fdslave_g

I dunno. but mine goes really loud (when i was using single td07) but now it's not as loud (as i now turn back for stock twin)

Just Bring It

Mine is loud after 5k more because of more boost. Maybe you should tighten that screw on the BOV to get better response. Mine is tightend all the way in.

Stevey629

ok, I have the BOV completely apart as far as I can go with it at least, and I am trying to take off the spring adjustment screw, only, it doesnt move at all. Is it supposed to be able to come all the way out, or at least move back thus adjusting spring tension? it just seems to be stuck in one spot. Is there a washer or nut or something that is supposed to be affixed to the back of it? From what Im presumming about the valve, since its in sorta bad shape as is, the screw is in fact supposed to be able to potentially come all the way out of the back housing of the BOV. Mine is stuck. I guess I can take it to a metals shop and have them take it out, and tap new threads in or something. Thats what I get for a free hand me down BOV I guess.

Stevey629

ok, I took the valve apart. As far as I'm concerned, that screw the back is stripped. Is it supposed to be able to come out of the back housing? or does it stay in one spot, and rotate a separate nut that should be affixed to the backside? The screw doesnt seem to adjust anything. It just sits, and turns and turns in one spot. Basically, I'm asking if this screw can just come all the way out....and you have your's tightenend all the way in? Will it still respond like this? and while I have the thing apart, I dont see how vacuum on the line will actuate it. Theres a rubber "lung" piece that the vacuum line pulls on. It pulls the lung up