High oil/coolant temps help
07-16-09, 12:16 PM
#52
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I am going to run a stock t-stat and replace the water pump. Also change the radiator cap and remove the a/c condenser. Going to run stock unless there is a better one? anyone have a suggestion? Greddy, ARC, lower or higher pressure?
07-17-09, 11:33 AM
#53
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I was playing around with the fill neck and found some "slug" in the coolant. so Im going to run coolant cleaner though it twice and get all the crap out and then install a new t-stat and fill with the Lisle Corporation funnel.
07-18-09, 07:05 PM
#54
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So I cleaned out the radiator, installed a autozone t-stat (dont worry the oem mazda one is coming in on monday, and burped the system. Car runs a lot cooler. Just a FYI oil temps will be high if there is a problem with the coolant system.
07-19-09, 09:18 AM
#56
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temps right now arw 210*-220* oil 210* solid for water and 100* water on the power fc. Still getting a lot of air out of the system. I am getting the Lisle funnel to help with that. I know after i get the air out the temps will go down.
07-19-09, 11:49 AM
#57
I think u should invest into two guages, water and oil temp and disregard your fc reading, I have twin 25 row oil cooler (fluidyne) and koyo raditaor, my oil temp read 140 degree and water 195-197 when fan kick it comes down to 187 that is the reading on my SPA gauges ( out side temp currently at 84 degree in NJ) Inaddition you should do a complete flus on the system, there is another drain plug below the oil pressure sensor, I believe it's on the rear housing, and retap distilled water and good antifrezze.
07-19-09, 12:27 PM
#58
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I think u should invest into two guages, water and oil temp and disregard your fc reading, I have twin 25 row oil cooler (fluidyne) and koyo raditaor, my oil temp read 140 degree and water 195-197 when fan kick it comes down to 187 that is the reading on my SPA gauges ( out side temp currently at 84 degree in NJ) Inaddition you should do a complete flus on the system, there is another drain plug below the oil pressure sensor, I believe it's on the rear housing, and retap distilled water and good antifrezze.
I also did drain the coolant out of the block. Got another gallon or two out of the cooling system
07-19-09, 02:01 PM
#59
I have two gauges Defi (water and oil temps) with the water temp reading at the filler neck and the oil temp reading at the thermostat. Your oil temps are real low and i dont think your car is even at normal operating temps. I know that with the Sakebomb Garage Oil Cooler Kits they have a Mocal 180 degrees oil thermostat. I have an earls oil t-stat that opens at 180 as well. I have duel Setrab 25 row coolers and a ron davis radiator. I am still getting the air out of the system but the outside temps are over 100.
I also did drain the coolant out of the block. Got another gallon or two out of the cooling system
I also did drain the coolant out of the block. Got another gallon or two out of the cooling system
07-19-09, 03:37 PM
#60
So my question is how tight should the water pulley be? Should I be able to spin the water pulley at all or should I tighten it until I can't spin it? Don't want to over tighten. Thanks for the help and for allowing me to steal the thread for the question.
07-19-09, 04:10 PM
#61
my oil temps are good. 180-205 and do go over but my water temps are at 99-100 w/ A/C and sometimes go up to 103-104 when i get on it now this is under 95+ degree weather. i dont have a t-stat nor any sort of ducting so tomorrow im going to install a t-stat and some ducting/undertray and see if that helps the problem. when i have the car on the dyno i noticed that the temps dont go over 88-90 but is because i have the hood up so i'm thinking about getting a after market hood with some ventilation.
07-19-09, 05:36 PM
#62
Guys.... the biggest problem for spr258 right now is ambient temps in Vegas (where he's located). The last week has been between 110F and 115F with little or no humidity. Very different from running in South Florida, since even with temps in the 90s Florida still has high humidity. I'd say if he can keep his PFC temps between 95 and 100C daily driving he'll be lucky until the temps back off a bit, or the monsoon thunderstorm season kicks in and he gets a little humidity to help keep things cooler.
spr258... I'd caution you a little against running straight water. Although this provides the ultimate in cooling, it's impossible to guard against runaway boiling if your temps get in the 230+ range. Even 10-20 percent EG can make a huge difference in guarding against boilover (and rust in your system from galvanic corrosion).
spr258... I'd caution you a little against running straight water. Although this provides the ultimate in cooling, it's impossible to guard against runaway boiling if your temps get in the 230+ range. Even 10-20 percent EG can make a huge difference in guarding against boilover (and rust in your system from galvanic corrosion).
07-19-09, 05:41 PM
#63
So I just ran across this thread and I think I have found my coolant temp problem - water pump slippage. I'm assuming I should be able to easily spin the water pump pulley when the car is turned off right? If not, then that is my culprit. My water temps an the way to and back from DGRR never got above 87C or so but on my way home from Kilo Racing this week they went above 100C. That was on a two hour trip compared to the 9 hours for DGRR.
So my question is how tight should the water pulley be? Should I be able to spin the water pulley at all or should I tighten it until I can't spin it? Don't want to over tighten. Thanks for the help and for allowing me to steal the thread for the question.
So my question is how tight should the water pulley be? Should I be able to spin the water pulley at all or should I tighten it until I can't spin it? Don't want to over tighten. Thanks for the help and for allowing me to steal the thread for the question.
07-19-09, 05:47 PM
#64
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RCCAZ 1 you have a good point. Im just a little disappointed in the shop here in vegas. I asked them if they took out the thermostat and they said "i dont know, and that isnt a good idea you shouldnt run without one" I looked in there and the car was missing a thermostat. I took it out today and think i got almost all the air out. I will put some anti-freeze in the system. about a 30% mix. Temps ran at 90-101 on the power fc and that was when I did a 2-4 gear pull on the highway.
07-19-09, 08:08 PM
#66
I need to verify if I have a RW water pump on the 20B and if I do, then it's the chadwick idler pulley kit for me.
07-19-09, 08:35 PM
#67
Yes I think it is belt tension. The water pump pulley spins in my hands. Anyone know the proper tension? Should I tighten it until I can't spin the pulley?
I need to verify if I have a RW water pump on the 20B and if I do, then it's the chadwick idler pulley kit for me.
I need to verify if I have a RW water pump on the 20B and if I do, then it's the chadwick idler pulley kit for me.
07-19-09, 10:25 PM
#70
Generally, you take the tension on the longest section of the belt. If you don't have something to measure the tension, usually being able to push hard on the belt with your finger to 1/2 inch is about right. If you can push further than that, tighten it. If you can't push it that much, loosen the belt.
07-20-09, 05:49 AM
#73
Generally, you take the tension on the longest section of the belt. If you don't have something to measure the tension, usually being able to push hard on the belt with your finger to 1/2 inch is about right. If you can push further than that, tighten it. If you can't push it that much, loosen the belt.
07-20-09, 09:42 AM
#75
Belt was definitely too loose so it's tightened up for the moment. Went ahead and ordered the chadwick idler pulley kit which should be here by Wednesday or so. Also ordered a 150 amp FD alternator to replace the suspect unit on the car. My intentions are to knock out these last remaining issues and go have fun driving!