bryant

fill us in on what fuse you purchased.

FDdragon

well yeah, if you havent gotten a reply about the bolts yet, those are the bolts you need to take out first. its ok, i also broke my fuse at first too. he he. i forgot to take out the bolts and just yanked the fuse apart (it was late, dark and i was having a bad day already).....the i took the screws out. lol

cant help you the where to buy the fuse, sorry. if you want i can buy one or two here and send them to you just in case. (i blew two fuses before i realized my mistake...dont ask, he he) you can keep them as spares if anything happens later on.

if i can remember they were around $3-$5 each.

Kento

Please give us specifics on this $7.00 fuse. That's a pretty big price break. It fit perfectly with no issues whatsoever?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you got the fuse from Mazda, just the part number from the package will be perfect.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

+1. An $83 discount and it fits? Might be worth adding this to the FAQ sticky thread.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Fit perfectly. Heck if it didn't, I wouldn't be smart enough to install it. I lied about the cost though, I bought two fuses and the total cost with WA state sales tax was $14.04. So each one cost me $7.02. Dealer list price is $6.45

Part number is #J001-67-099

The original fuse that I was quoted was part # JE 1618 811

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

"Before you start working with the main fuse and the bolts that hold it down, disconnect the ground (negative) from the battery. That way, when you're working with the open end or socket and hit the chassis, you won't repeat your mistake. "

The questions you are asking are of the lowest level basic auto mechanics skills.

Good auto mechanic skills should always be used while working with a shop manual on these cars, and all others for that matter. One of them is always remove the negative battery cable when working around wiring. Otherwise you will damage something or hurt yourself. Also you should replace any damaged parts with the designed OEM hardware. If you do not know how to properly work a system on this car I suggest you leave it for the pros at a Rotary shop.

Later

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice Tom. I'm always happy to read suggestions from fellow old farts.

I readily admit that I have little to no mechanic skills. As you probably know, there are many types of intelligences, mechanics being one of many. Sadly, I'm hopelessly deficient in that type of intelligence. Even so, just as many special Ed. kids can eventually learn to read, I am hoping that will lots of reading, practice, and a few mistakes, I'll eventually be able to manage some basic skills. I do have the shop manuals and have spent hours reading through them but will most likely always ride the short bus of mechanics.

I failed to disconnect the ground. I'll blame my inexperience. When I was trying to track down other electrical problems in the car, I had disconnected the ground. Since I wasn't working on the electrical system, I didn't think to do it in this case. Obviously a stupid mistake.

The fuse that I replaced it with is a Mazda fuse that Mazda currently specs as a replacement for the OE fuse. Apparently both are available. One is used on the RX-7 only, the other is used on multiple Mazda vehicles, including the '91 and later RX-7s (at least according the Mazda parts guy). I know that most folks on the forum have a lot of disdain for dealer's shops, but this is a fuse that their manuals would have them put in the '94 FD. I don't see a problem with this.

More good advice. I've already done that. Once I got the car home, the first thing I did was to take it to a local rotary shop that was highly recommended by folks in the NW. I'll be taking it back to him shortly for follow-up and additional work. I have no problems paying people to do things that are beyond my scope.

I'm almost 50. I'm an old dog trying to learn a few, basic tricks. I'll continue to do stupid things I'm sure. I'll probably also continue to ask stupid questions. Anytime you feel like offering suggestions or advice, I'll be very grateful to receive it.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Here's a suggestion:

When you plan on using tools under the hood, *always* disconnect the negative battery terminal.

I learned that lesson the hard way as well. Grounded the throttle cable to that same alternator bolt. Took less than a second to cut halfway through the throttle cable.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

David,
I don't disconnect the neg. cable EVERY time I work on it. If you'd intended to disconnect any electrical components... fine, good judgement rules. Cover the terminal and be just be careful.
Kudos for willingness to learn and for spelling "Greddy" correctly. Everybody walked before they ran. Currently I'm at a slow trot myself and I've got a few years on ya in more ways than one.
Search here with questions and issues and post up if you don't find an answer. Good luck with the car.

bryant

an easy remedy would be to get the rubber boot that covers that alt wire-bolt.

but yes you should disconnect the battery anyways.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Any ideas on where to find one? Is that something that I could find a generic wiring boot at a parts store or am I going to need to find a specialty part. It seems to me as if this type of thing would be very common in many cars so it shouldn't be that hard to find?

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Just try the classifieds on this board. I found one for about $5 a few years ago.

DaveW

1. 2. 1. You should be able to get a boot like that at an auto-parts store, or at someplace like a radio shack. The car originally came with one.

2. Don't feel bad. We "experienced" guys came about a lot of our knowledge learning from our screwups. I'd wager every one of us so-called "experts" has a multi-page list that we could write noting the stuff we've effed-up along the way. You have a good attitude, and are willing to learn. IMO, you're WAY ahead of the game.

Good luck, and have fun!

CantGoStraight

If you fancy hunting around junk yards there are plenty of Mazda's that still use them if you want an OEM and can't locate a suitable replacement. You were lucky in several respects, in some cases people have damaged there ECU and had to find one of those as well. For the time it takes to disconnect the ground there's no reason to "be careful" and leave it hooked up, there are other hot leads besides that one and you never know when you'll run across it.

bryant

a while after i did this to my car my motor went out, so after the year wait for a motor i took my car to the rx-7store.net to get the fuel system upgraded and they immediately noticed it was missing and replaced it for me.
not sure the price.

it should be fairly common thoe. just a rubber boot.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

I would bill that boot as a safeguard, not a remedy.

It's not too hard to accidentally push it aside with a wrench.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you. Still, I'd like the boot.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

The OEM boot clamps on to the bolt assembly so would require quite a bit of savagery to move accidentally. Exposed live bolts with direct unfused connections to the battery are not a good thing. As I mentioned earlier, these boots are very easy to find in the classifieds here for $5 or so.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Agreed that it is a good thing.

As my car has one, and I still managed to short it to ground, I would say it is a remedy, and disconnecting the battery while under the hood is cheap insurance.

Hughba

This post saved a broken man. I can't believe I was so stupid as to short my alt... especially as my battery has a kill switch! That's just laziness.

Thanks again guys

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Hey don't feel bad for damaging your car, I have done it too. When I was fixing my power steering leak I didn't know what a banjo bolt was at the time, and I tried to line the hole in the bolt to the line perfectly when it really doesnt matter which direction the hole goes. It was so tight, I could have stripped the bolt doing that, but I didn't. I also grounded out my air pump wires, frying my ecu, all because I didn't disconnect the battery before the job 0ops! When changing spark plugs and wires, I dissasembled the TPS, and removed it from the car. BAD idea. I found out later by disassembling it (with it being so old) I had damaged it, and it had to be replaced and readjusted, another costly repair. Then again I have also done a LOT of jobs right without screwing things up: ABS pump, clutch master and slave cylinder, bleeding brakes, P/S pump, P/S pressure hose, and suction hose, Starter and rewiring, ECU etc. Learing from your mistakes, helps you to learn more about the what NOT to do lol

RIX-7

iTrader: (2)

I have a spare engine,the main harness has been cut and of no use to me,if you pm your address i will send you the terminal boot .Its no use to me as i need a new harness for my spare engine.

Hughba

Hey, that's a great offer thanks but I'm in Australia!

RIX-7

iTrader: (2)

Well i dont mind, you can buy these from an auto store,if you want it i will post,£1 aint gonna break my bank.