7-UP

I failed emissions in Illinois and I need your help before my license plate is suspended. I believe it is a vacuum leak but I need to know exactly where I would check.

I checked the vacuum on the boost gauge - no prob, I choked the air hoses going to the air filter and it didn't have an effect. I thought the car should have cut off with such a lack of air but it didn't. I also checked the hoses to the ic and found nothing.

There has to be a GREAT deal of vacuum being lost somewhere in my system because my idle is twice the number that it should be (CO reading of 3.2 - standard is 1.2). While the car is in idle it pulsates high and low (up & down). This could be a tell-tell sign but I'm only a neophyte at working on my ride. What could be causing so much air to be syphoned-off and where would the guilty culprit(s) be?

I also checked and adjusted the idle control and it had no effect. I need you guys help ASAP!!!! It's not cool driving around in a nice looking car that sounds like ****!!!!

7-UP

I also forgot to mention that I have relatively new spark plugs and wires (1.5 yrs old). An Apex N1 dual exhaust that's about the same age and a PFS management system that I thought might have been the root of the problem but after I disconnected it, the engine continued to pulse/fluctuate. Could it be the O2 sensor, dirty throttle body, bad temp heat sensor? or there is not enough fuel getting to the engine?

Any help??????

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

What mods do you have on your car?

How warm was the car when it was tested? You should drive the car around for about 20-30 minutes to make sure it's good and warmed up, and make sure you don't have to wait when you get it tested (so the car doesn't cool off).

Could be several things, the O2 senser is a good place to start.

7-UP

Yeah, I drove it around for about 40 minutes. Then there was a long line for the wait to be tested and I waited there for about 20 minutes with the car running.

The only mods I have are air intake, dp, cb and PF purple box.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I don't know much about the Peter Farell box, but can you adjust your ECU to run less agressive just for the test? Maybe it's running too aggressive causing you to be too rich at idle....

You still might check the O2 sensor, not sure how you tell if it needs to be replaced. I'm sure there are some threads here about that.

7-UP

One of the local guys who was the first to notice how loud my car was idling and who also said that he could program the Purple box blindfolded said that the box was not the problem. His first thought were a vacuum leak. I'm out of work riight now so I don't have the loot to have a mechanic take a look at it. I've been trying to find a vacuum leak since I was told that that could be the proble, but after checking most of the hoses, I'm starting to think that it could be something else.

KZ1

teh vacuum leak coul dbe from the lower intake gasket, or upper one as well.

7-UP

I just finished doing some research in the '93 Workshop Manual. The hints that they give on F225 for 'IDLE FLUCTUATES/HUNTS' are:

PCV valve - valve stuck
Spark plug - dirty or worn spark plugs
Throttle sensor - incorrect adjustment
Solenoid valve (ISC) - valve stuck
Intake air system - air leakage

I have new plugs and wires (1.5 yrs old) so that can't be the problem. I also checked the hoses going to the ic and intake and could not find a problem.

The description given sounds like what's happening with my car: "Engine speed changes back and forth btwn specified idle speed and higher speed"

I hope it not the intake manifold!

Out of the hints above, which one would you say is the one guilty culprit over the others given what I have described with my mods?

7-UP

I also just thought about the fact that I had an ecu recall and the dealership replaced the old one. In the Workshop manual on page F-232 with regard to the ECU ground (analogue) it mentions that:

if the circuit has an open, engine hard starting and rought idle will will be caused and Service Code Nos. 09,11,12,13,20 and 23 will be output.

But is sounds more and more like this:

Solenoid valve (ISC)

* If the solenoid valve or circuit has an open or short, Service No. 34 is output.

* If the circuit is open, the valve will always fully closed, causing rough idle and hard starting.

* If the circuit is shorted, the valve will always fully open, causing high idle. (After warm-up engine hunts at approx. 1500rpm)

Does anyone know how much a new solenoid (ISC) would cost? Is it easy to replace?

WhiteRXseven

Sorry I can't help on WHY/FIX your emission problem
but i can help you pass emissions.. = )

Couple of years ago my car failed emissions.
So i went back a week later. and BRIBED
the Emisssions person.. With a Franklin. ($50).

When they walk up and ask for your paper.
Slide a Franklin with it and say " I really
Need to PASS" either they take it and pass..
Or you get your money back and fail.
What the worse can happen??
The Emission people basically working for minimum
wage. ODDS are you will pass.

Recently I went to Emissions again, Every 2 years in MD.
You know when they ask you to REV your motor to 2.5k.
WELL before when I failed. I never reved up to 2.5K RPM thinking I was cheating tring to pass..
IT turns out. The REVING to 2.5 or what ever RPM, is to Clear out your exhaust before idle when they Test you.
AFter the person told me that. I reved up even higher than they asked. let it IDLE. and WALLA..
I Passed with out the BRIBE. = )

Hope this helps the Tree Huggers off your back

7-UP

Every little bit helps!! If all else fails..........


Thanx

7-UP

Uhm....more and more it's looking like the solenoid valve. Another characteristic of a bad valve is gasoline smell. I have a really strong gasoline smell and the garage is no place to be while the car is warming up....even if the garage door is wide open (so you don't choke to death from carbon monoxide).

The only other hint for the strong smell is that the charcoal canister is full of fuel and leaking, which I don't believe it is.

Import Convert

Dude, Franklins are $100! Grant is on the $50.

1.5 year old plugs need to be replaced! Wires should be fine, but definantly replace all your plugs.

I'd use BUR9EQP all around.

7-UP

In the 1.5 years that I've gotten the plugs I've driven the car less than 3k miles. I shouldn't have to replace them yet do I?

Import Convert

Hmm, 3K miles? Probably not then. I would pull a couple out and take a look anyway just to make sure.

7-UP

Every little thing helps....I'll try that too!!!

Thanx

7-UP

Bump

hapa

7-up, I'm confused, I'm assuming your idle is around 1500 rpm's and fluctuates? If so, and you've checked all of your vacuum hoses for leaks, then I would suspect your intake manifold gasket. Try taking carb cleaner (while engine is running) and spraying around the manifold gaskets, if your idle changes significantly you know where your leak is. Fix your idle first, then you can worry about smog.

For smog, keep the BUR7EQP's in the leading plugs, they are 7's and not 9's just for emissions. The 7's burn hotter and help burn the extra fuel. I would change them just for the test (it'll only cost $18). Next I would clean out the black purge tank. It's located underneath the intake elbow, next to the throttle body. Sometimes this can have excess fuel and blows it into the manifold during a test.

Test tips: Always run the car hot before the test, the hotter the Catalytic Converter, the better it works. Keep ALL accessories off, leave your domelight off, your climate control, your a/c, your lights, basically everything off.

good luck with your emissions,
eric

WhiteRXseven

LOL

Oops you are right about the Franklins and Grants.
Obviously i don't get to see many of them..
haha

stevecod

steve, where have you been?? where were you at the 21st meet??? call Sean or Steve at A-Spec Tunning they could help you out with your problem.

steve

Merciless

go to A-spec tuning

rotary-tt

It took me 3 months to pass emissions a couple of years back. After installing a new temp sensor, plugs and air pump hose emissions were still high. As a last resort, I took the car to Precision Tune. The mechanic sprayed carb cleaner under the intake at each vacuum hose connection. The the idle dropped while spraying 2 connections where the hoses were partially off. Put the hoses back on and emissions were perfect. I'm not sure of the hoses, but the workshop manual has a diagnosis section where it discusses causes of high emissions. I think a couple of these relate to the vacuum connections under the intake.

ziftar

iTrader: (1)

Wow! Precision tune found your vacume leak for you? I didnt think those guys could tell thier *** from a hole in the ground. I'll have to remember the carb cleaner trick!

7-UP

Good advice.

I'm almost postitive that the reason why my idle is fluctuating is a short in the circuit of my ISC (idle speed control). But then again with my luck it could be the EGR. I thought that fixing the idle would help my emissions problem but I guess I'm wrong.

I'll try your suggestions.

Thanx