I finished mine but I'm only getting 5psi, I think I hooked up the home depot boost controller wrong.

 

rikki's instructionsd are very complete. You don't ahve to take off the uim to do his. It took me about 45 minutes t do it my first time. removing the tca takes the longest.

 

Quote:

rikki's instructionsd are very complete. You don't ahve to take off the uim to do his. It took me about 45 minutes t do it my first time. removing the tca takes the longest.

Yeah but we trying to elimate the rat's nest. What is on Rikki's web site is the poormans way of doing it.

 

Ok, if your going with full manual boost control vavles and not a electronic controller all you need is a line from uim to fpr and a line from uim to oil injectors. Thats it.

You need to keep the wg actuator obviously then run a valve from one of the pressure nipples thats on the pri turbo over to the left nipple on the actuator. Then on the other actuator nipple run a vavle line to atomsphere. The one going to atmosphere you want fairly short, I zip tied mine to I think a a/c line down there close to the turbos. Just keep it less than a foot and somewhere that you can get to it.

Here is how it works, the wg starts to open at 7psi. The way you keep it from hitting 7psi real early is to make the vented valve more open so it vents the pressure and keeps it from hitting 7psi inside the actuator right away.

You'll just have to play with it a little but it works awsome

STEPHEN

 

oh! That explains the lack of boost. I don't have anything vented. I have the wg control actuator connected to the turbo precontrol, the other side of the precontrol capped, and a needle valve between the turbo and the wg control.
So I just cap the precontrol entirely (it's wired open), put a needle valve on one side of the wg control and leave the other side connected to the turbo?
Do I need two needle valves even for non-seq?
Thanx!!
-Jedon

 

Well, you can try to cap it and turn your needle valve almost all the way shut. This will delay the pressure build up.

But I've had better results and faster spool running the 2nd valve to vent the pressure out of the actuator.

STEPHEN

 

What about if I use my Profec A?
Is this what you mean?

 

Hmm, so if I used my Profec + the needle valve it should look like this?

Thanx!

 

ttt

 

This is an awesome thread for reference. I'm currently doing the non. seq. setup myself. Hey Jedon, is your engine the original factory one?

 

no, I had it rebuilt with 90% new parts from mazdacomp, street port and ribbed water jackets, competition bearings.

 

I don't know your mods, but I'm assuming you have no air pump since you're doing all this and removing "smog" stuff.

What about those of us going non-seq but keeping the air pump? What's the vacuum diagram look like for that?

Please help ASAP!

 

Thats close, you have the one actuator for the wg. There is the one line that goes from pressure to the act that is green.....it also needs a valve. Then just as your pic showed put a valve going to atmosphere on the other nipple.

As for the Profec, I'm not really sure how it works. I prefer manual and have always used it.

STEPHEN

 

Is there a way to use just one needle valve for now?
Can I just cap the right side of the wastgare actuator and run the needle valve between the turbo and the left side of the wastegate actuator?
Thanx!!!!!

 

You'd be better off runing a stock pill in your pressure line and the valve on the vent line. That would prob work decent if you still have a pill

STEPHEN

 

Update: I capped the right side of the wastegate and opened the valve between the turbo and wastegate. Now I get 10psi according to my boost gauge and .68bar according to my PowerFC.
Better but not all that. I think I'll try hooking up my Profec A now and putting the bleed valve on the other side of the wastegate.

 

if i do the full non seq. can i just remove all the solenoids and leave the plugs disconected?

 

You need the omp solenoid.
You can disconnect them if you have a PowerFC or other engine computer, otherwise you need to put resisters on the plugs.

 

yes i have a PFC, so i guess i will remove all that crap when i put my engine back on the car in a few days.

thanks
hugo