well how's you're electrical system? do the lights, radio, etc. work?

 

Here are my mods, just to help clear things up:

DP, MP, CB, I/C, 1300cc 2ndarys, 550cc primaries, Non Seq, Power FC, Intake, No emmissions crap, Crazy ported engine, bur9 plugs, magnecor wires, profec b, walbro fp, alum radiator

Another thing i've read is the Ignitor coil can go bad, located underneath the cruise control, looks like a computer heatsink.???

 

Ignore the question, i was asking Van about it and he said it was the ingitor. Hopefully you got another fd guy living near you to lend you a new ignitor or coils.

In anycase, did you try grounding the sparkplug to see if your plugs are sparking??? I'm waiting for my brother to come home so that he can crank and i can see if they are sparking. what i did was get a pretty thick wire and grounded it, i then striped a lot of the sheilding and wraped the other side around the sparkplug, i then am going to plug the sparkplug in to the wires one by one and see if i get any spark. Note that you might need to have the fuel relay plugs in to get a spark. also note that you should be going WOT to not reflood your engine. This way there is no way to shock myself (I hear it hurts)

Good luck dude, and wish me luck as well

 

I got the exact same problem. it wont start. GAH!!!..... makes me mad.

 

Skunks, that is the ignitor... so we are gonna try that soon, i'll let you guys know how it goes.. hopefully it will crank!

 

Ok tried Ignitor, still wouldn't crank,

Also Tried the Crank Angle sensor, replaced it also, no go...

STILL it just SPINS AND SPINS AND SPINS AND SPINS and its getting on my ****** nerves!!!

So practically i've ruled out the WHOLE ignition system, the pfc reads 7degrees and 4degrees when cranking ignition.. anyone get anything different, i never really paid attention to it until now...

is there anything else it could be, i've pretty much ruled out the fuel system as well, as the car is getting fuel and my exhaust and plugs both smell like gasoline. I have a battery jump box hooked up and i get 13v sitting, and 9.9v when cranking, so its not a battery problem..

ANYONE PLEASE, maybe a mazda tech. (god knows?) can help?! anyone else?!

 

So are you getting any spark at the plugs?
Did you test if your getting any fuel?

 

My car is running!!!! I pulled off the trottle/intake and checked and turned and mounted the ACV again.

then I unflooded the engine (the plugs were very wet) then I cranked it W/O fuelpump fuse and relay. after that a normal start and it runs. it goes lean when start pushing the throttle (still vacuum in intake, but without O2-sensor loop). I think this is because of the streetport. Mine flows 25% better then original.

New ecu is a must.

 

Might be a stupid question but what is the ACV? I don't think i have one of those on my car... explain please?

I'm getting fuel, the pump is pumping it, i can take the hose off and fuel comes out of the rail, and my injectors are spraying, they are all new.

 

Air Control Valve, placed on the lower intake to controll airpump.

new injectors? how did you put them in? I killed my front o-rings first time I put mine in. replaced them and oiled them and then easy put them in.

If you havent done this, lift up the fuel rails and put on the fuel pump by the diagnostics connector to check them.

 

OK, i don't have an ACV as i thought, i have no emissions stuff, and i'm non-seq as stated in my mods above.

I did oil the o-rings for the injectors, this is like the 5th time i've messed with them, everytime they came out they recieved new o-rings, so they aren't old. I'm using a PFC, so i can't use the diagnostic.

Hmmm any other reason my car wouldn't be running?

 

Man.. Pete, it seems like you have tried everything that my measly brain could think of. Have you tried to speak with whoever built your engine? What did they suggest?

I would PM Dont_Be_a_Rikki or gmonsen - they might have some insight for you on why she is not catching...

 

my guess is that your running to rich or to lean. try taking your fuelpump fuse and relay out and crank. then put it in and try again and se if it starts. if not rise the fuel in the pfc, my problems to start are in that I get to much fuel at idle

 

I'm the rebuilder of the engine. It was running perfectly for weeks, then in a matter of hours, the car started the bucking, and started getting worse, then it decided it wouldn't start anymore.... and its been this way for 1-2weeks now.

 

Thing is the maps on the PFC have not changed, and thus, should not matter, because the car has ran on those maps for a while and had no problems previously when starting or driving. The fuel pump relay trick doesn't work for me either...

 

dont know then. but I know your frustration. I really hated my car today. really regretted ever thinking about leaving the 323 GT-R..... but not now

 

*sigh* is there no end to my problems?!

 

Ok. How many miles did you put on her before she started having issues? were you driving with any major amounts of boost? Hmm. Did you ever re-check the compression?

Of course there is the obvious as well, no visible leaks of fluids etc (I am sure you have covered this, but just making sure)


BUMP^ Come on guys - lets help Pete out here with anything we can think of

 

600 miles before it started having problems, it makes compression, i don't have a gauge for it, but i can hear the pops and chugs, and no, just 1-2psi of boost because of the break in pattern i'm running, its already been through 2 oil changes, and the car has nice clean oil

 

BUMP- Anyone , with anything else useful they can add, please please let me know?!

 

also tried changing out ECUs, still no go, also unflooded engine, still no fire... anyone?

 

Mine quite starting once. It was the bottom butterfly valve on the throttle body. If you take your intake arm off you can see the bottom valve. Make sure it is cracked. This also works in conjunction with the throttle position sensor. I would set it in the middle to start and use some dielectric grease on the connection.

The car needs three things air, gas, and spark. IF the valve is cracked then its getting air (there is also a screw under the valve that controls idle speed) and you said its getting gas. I would check each plug for spark by doing a grounding test. If its getting all three and no go take it back to the guy who built the engine.

Chris

 

i built the engine, it makes compression, but i'll do a full test later this week, also i try to start it with the pedal to the floor, so its getting air, and u can hear the car making compression and pumping... still no fire.

 

bump- anyone?

 

Does the car turn on? i.e. radio, dash lights, etc... My car would crank and not turn over and the electrical things wouldn't work. It turned out I had just blown the main fust. Replaced it for about four bucks and she fired right up. But if your electrical parts are all working this probably isn't it. Can't hurt to glance at the fuses though.