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HELP! broken clear plastic fuel line... any way to repair???

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Old 02-20-02, 02:32 PM
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Unhappy HELP! broken clear plastic fuel line... any way to repair???

i got my new pulsation dampner, and in the process of installing it i ran into another roadblock...

the skinny clear plastic fuel line that goes into the valve under the pulsation dampener snapped at the nipple when i was pushing it aside to pull the fuel rail out. i tried for more than an hour to get the thing back onto the metal nipple, which protrudes out of a ring that wraps around and feeds into the valve, which bolts into the engine. i already got the fastener thing off the nipple, but the plastic fuel line is so skinny and brittle theres no way i am going to shove the damn metal nipple into the hose. i already tried heating it up, which didnt work. and in the process of attempting to shove it in, i broke about half an inch more off of the plastic hose, so now there is pretty much no more room for error.

what should i do now??? is there any way i can connect it still? is an entire replacement necessary? in the case that i do have to buy the entire line from the dealer, can somebody please tell me the part number if you know it, or at least what the line is called??? i do not know what the other end of the line connects to. please help me out here guys...

this hose job is not very fun at all...
Old 02-20-02, 05:05 PM
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The ONLY clear plastic lines I remember down there were the ones coming out of the OMP and into the oil injectors. Are you SURE this plastic line connects directly to the fuel system? Try to follow it. I am almost certain it goes down to the OMP.
Old 02-20-02, 05:46 PM
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It definitely sounds like you're talking about the oil metering lines that come off of the oil metering pump. You'll probably have to replace the whole line(s). Part numbers are:
N3A1-14-660
N3A1-14-660A

I just replaced my pulsation dampener when I did my vac hose job about a month ago, and I remember dealing with these lines. I was REALLY careful around them because they look like a major bitch to replace, and they looked really brittle.

Good luck,

Paul
Old 02-20-02, 11:52 PM
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okay, the guys at the auto parts stores said that it is most likely not a fuel line. i think you guys are right. i went to the plastic store and got some vinyl tubing of similar diameter today, with a vinyl coupler a little wider. i am going to try that first before changing the whole line. it does look like a major bitch to replace. wish me luck...
Old 02-21-02, 11:20 AM
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dude do what you can to salvage it, but my guess is that you can't if you snapped off an inch of it. i broke mine too, but it was a clean break and i was able to jbweld it back into position; i only used jbweld b/c it looked like an incredible PIA to replace them, they are snaked through every nook and cranny in the engine i think. you can get new ones from mazdatrix. those things are way more important than they look...they inject the oil into your apex seals. without them your engine won't last long, so make sure you don't clog the line in the process of fixing it. the other solution is you could just pre-mix 2-stroke oil with your fuel and not have an oil injection line, but thats a PIA imho too.
Old 02-21-02, 04:59 PM
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damn, those plastic lines are the only oil source for the apex seals??? you would wonder what mazda's engineers were smoking when they designed that system... must have been some good ****!

okay, the tubing seems to be a tight enough fit. just to make sure, am i missing anything when i bolt the apparatus back into the engine? heres what i have:

the 19mm bolt and the ring injector with the tube connection. no o-ring-- is there supposed to be an o-ring? (i really hope not) please do tell.
Old 02-22-02, 07:29 AM
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No o-ring. Not on mine anyway.. Just broke the same tubing, to the front injector. Ordered a new one two days ago. Thank god I have the engine out, makes it a lot easier to replace.
Old 02-22-02, 11:40 AM
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i just checked the other one, and there IS a copper o-ring. you should go out and get a couple. there is one that goes between the bolt and the ring and another that goes between the ring and the "block."

oh yeah, and i broke the other line in the same place while checking that. damn.
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