I just had the car fixed and it ran great, until a couple of hours ago. The boost pattern stabilized and the car was pulling great! Now I can barely hit 3psi and I can hear the boost being veted into the atmosphere, the whoosh sound. I searched and read, but what do you guys think it is?

 

Some hose probably popped off

 

anyone else??

 

Leaking air out of the CRV hose that connects to the Y pipe. Couplers for Y pipe and intercooler are leaking, a hose popped off somewhere, the bolts that connect the Y pipe to the turbos are loose (two 10mm bolts on each), a hose tore and you cant see it.

I took off my CRV hose today and it broke apart in my hands so, i'd start there.

 

By the venting air sounds, it seems to me that you have a boost leak somewhere. Check all of the pressurized hoses.
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/rx7stuff.htm

 

Yes, it sounds like the air is being dumped into the atmosphere. I will check the diagram and follow it.

 

Wait, so it WASN'T a hose popping off? You dismissed that pretty quickly...

 

If you can't build more than 3 PSI on primary (and you don't have the CRV vented), it's most likely an IC coupler.

Read here:
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

 

OK, I think I found the problem. Reading the info on the page, I tested every possible thing. I checked my IC couplings and they are fine. I checked the Y-pipe coupling and thats fine. I Checked the pipe itself and its fine. I just need to do the vacum test on the BOV of the 1st turbo to see if it is working.

I did perform the idle test on the charge control valve/actuaror/solenoid, and yes, the arm did pull in when the engine was on, but I shut it off and the arm pulled out by itself. In the write-up, it says that I would have to disconnect the vacum hose that is attached to chamber A in order for the rod to pull out, well, there was no need for that. As soon as I turned the car off, it pulled itself out.

Before I buy the vacum tester to test the BOV's, do you think this might be the problem?

Thanks

 

I've only heard/read of a very small number of cases where the BOV actually failed. You might make sure the vacuum line/source for the BOV is good, as well as the larger hose off the Y-pipe to the BOV. I had my line off the Y-pipe to the BOV split in the past.

Also, as a test you can switch the CRV and the BOV just to see if it makes a difference. However, they have slightly difference operating parameters so don't run the car with those switched all the time.

 

Also, when you check the couplers, don't just look at them - INSPECT them. The Y-pipe coupler very commonly splits, but looks fine until you take it off the car. The rubber 90deg. hose to the CRV looks fine on the car, but will be loose and cracked when you remove it for inspection.

Dale

 

If you look at the forum info on this type of problem, the stock Y-Pipe can have hairline cracks that are invisible except under boost. You may want to check it VERY carefully.


Damn Dale---beat me to it m

 

I checked the BOV under vacum, and it opens up completely at 5 inHG. I attached the vacum tester to port A and blew on port B and it did just fine, so I guess the BOV is not it.

I actually removed the couplers and inspected them. I do not have the stock ones, but the blue silicone couplers people use normally. They are fine.

WHen you speak of the CRV, you speak of the second BOV, the one that looks just the same? LOL. I will check the rubber hoses from the CRV better. BTW, all most vacum lines from the CRV and the BOV were replaced just this past weekend and inspected too.

 

OK, I found something else. As I inspected the BOV and the CRV, I noticed that both had the tag that said CRV and both have the same number. Now, in the write-up, it says that the CRV operates at different standards. Could this be it? I checked both 1" hoses that go out of the Y-pipe and they both are fine.

Now, I checked the charge control actuator as the write-up said, and yes, the rod pulls in at idle, but as soon as I turn off the motor, the rod goes out. IN the write-up, it says that the rod shoudl remain in and it should go out just as I take the hose of chamber A. What do you guys think?

 

I do know that the CRV and ABV (aka BOV) have different operating parameters, but I am unsure of the exact details. In any case, the other valve should have a sticker that reads "ABV" (iirc).

 

I see, well, both valves read CRV, could this be it? I am swaping the front CRV for the back one to see if it works.

 

I performced another test on the Charge Control Actuator. I pushed the rod in and pinched the line on chamber A and the rod remained inside. I did the same on chamber B, and it remained in. I was told that if this test passes, then it is not this actuator.

 

EUREKA!!! I found it!! I put a couple of ballons in the BOV's to see if they filled up just in case it was them, and nothing!! So I check the IC piping again and the bottom part of the IC there is a big pipe, right there, a huge hairline crack almost invisible, but I put some preassure there and WOW, a masive 1" hole! I'm so glad it is only that. Thanks guys for all the help I'll be seeing you guys around.

 

I guarantee this is some type of boost problem. When you put your car back together, you probably didn't tighten something down or left something disconnected. I've had this happen a few times, where I would "blow off" some type of hose, IC coupling or whatever because I forgot to clamp something down good. The constant whoosh sound is a big indicator that something is disconnected. The fact that you are actually making positive boost indicates that the boost is leaking out of somewhere indicating a somewhat small leak as opposed to something large and easily noticable.

Make sure everything is clamped/connected. If everything checks out, then you probably have a split hose/coupling/pipe.

 

Sometimes it's a good idea to read all the way to the end of the thread before replying...

 

LOL, no ****. Thanks guys for replying

 

Shut up LOL At least I was right