Now that my engine is out, I'm debating whether I should bypassed the heater core. As you all know, the heater core is one of those plastic end tank crimped Piece of Sh*t. This POS is bound to leak sooner or later and I don't want to be tearing into the dashboard to remove it. Even if I could remove it, the replacement is still a POS. That is, you can't buy a Fluidyne type heater core.

So now that the engine bay is clear, I'm thinking of bypassing it. It's not like the heater was ever that good. In any case, it's my shifter area that provides me with warmth in cold winter days.

Has anyone done it? Pros? Cons?

On the other hand, I'm trying to do a R-134 conversion (can't stand the heat).

 

lol, get rid of the AC, keep the heater core... you mind want to try unclogging it if you aint gettin any heat

 

Cons, uh NO HEAT? Seems to be a biggie to me.

Pros, no heat.

I'm pretty, well really pretty sure that the heater core is completely aluminum, no plastic tanks.

 

it makes absolutely no sense to bypass the heater core, you definitely have no gains to do this.

 

IIRC, you're right, however it's been awhile since I had that part of the car apart.

 

Well, the only real downside is the lack of heat in the cabin. If you can live with that, then the upside is the fact that the heater core will never leak, and it simplifies the plumbing of the cooling system somewhat.

It is sort of a goofy thing to do, though. I can see tearing out your entire A/C system and both air bags, but bypassing the heater core?

 

i contemplated it, but decided not to

 

I bypassed it after my last motor job but it was too cold in the winter time with no heat, I put it back in. If you ever start to overheat the car and want to add some cooling just switch the heater on full blast. Not much help but it's all we got.

 

I did the permanent bypass with CRC Block Weld, but then again having heat isn't much of an issue in Tucson.

I'ts going to 110F there for the next week, that means 170F above the pavement - glad I'm NOT there for another 3 months....

 

Thanks for your inputs. I'm not going to bypass the heater core.

Initially, looking at the manual, it looked like a crimped plastic end tank, but now, after I pulled the line off, I think jim and turbojeff are right: it's solid aluminum so not a leak point.

I'm going to have reverse flush the hell out of it caused I did the block weld last year.

 

I was thinking of doing a little mini project in this area. I have noticed that my water temp drops several degrees C with the heater on high, full hot. Originally I thought this was due to the rad fans kicking on when the interior fan speed is on high. However, I have since adjusted my rad fans to come on at 88c using the PFC and I still get a big temp drop when I turn the heat on.

Therefore, I'm thinking of using one of the settings on the vent dial(eg bi level, defrost ect) to direct hot air from the heater core outside the car.

 

^

 

Keep it in. More coolant passing through the system means more cooling capability. IMO

 

i think the nash ramblers had that, its a setting called desert, it vents the heater core heat to the outside.

mike

 

on a common note, today i just sprung a leak in my heater line though my turbos were leaking but turned out to be that damn heater hose.