don't get me wrong, boost controller is crucial. But even with it (regardless fuzzy logic or others with independent solenoid), you will still creep on a cold night.

having no cats at all, the car will be running LEAN on a stock ECU... so having a tune-able ECU + a good tune is a must for running full exhaust

First of all, with having a mortgage in San Diego, I can’t afford to go out and get a new ecu and tune it for a few months, so should I take off the mid-pipe? And if so, what should I replace it with? A normal cat? Will this prevent me from spiking and saving my motor?:Wconfused

You can also remove the pills in the actuator line,by the front turbo and this will lower the boost. It will still spike but nowhere near a danger level. You can do this until you get a boost controller,(you would have to remove the pills anyway) and a ecu.

When I did mine, I was getting like 6ish to 8-9ish to 6-7ishs boost readings.

Hope this helps.

Im with dave on this one..I will pick a boost controller over a map ne day. Boost will kill his motor..sure his map isn't 100% on point but a boost controller will keep his motor longer.

I'm sorry, I couldn't let this one go. had to clarify myself... I'm not suggesting him to get a tune right now. I'm suggesting him to put his mid cat back on until he's ready for a tune, then use the straight pipe


YES

Porting the wastegate solves that. When I refer to proper boost control, an adjustable controller and wastegate porting are the main things I have in mind.

You can tune all you want, the ECU cannot compensate for the limits of your fuel, injectors, intercooling,... The point is that proper boost control (whether that's a boost controller, ported wastegate, or both) is necessary and if you have it you ecu can whatever you want it to be.

LOL I feel sorry for the future of FD's.