Good vacuum number after rebuild?
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Good vacuum number after rebuild?
I just finished a full rebuild (all bearings, seals, springs control rings, etc.) using low mileage housings/plates and 3mm 2-piece NRS ceramics.
Started the engine the day before yesterday and it's pulling about 14 in.-Hg idling at about 1000 rpm.
What's a good vacuum number to get out of a fresh rebuild? This was my first rotary build. I'm wondering with ceramics if I can expect the vacuum to increase from where it is now as it breaks-in?
Thanks!
Started the engine the day before yesterday and it's pulling about 14 in.-Hg idling at about 1000 rpm.
What's a good vacuum number to get out of a fresh rebuild? This was my first rotary build. I'm wondering with ceramics if I can expect the vacuum to increase from where it is now as it breaks-in?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the responses. I haven't really had a bunch of heat on it yet to know if it'll have hot start issues. There's a problem with one of the coolant sensors, hopefully I'll have that taken care-of tonight...
These would probably be considered a medium/large street port. I'm not positive that I don't have a vac leak too. After I get the coolant sensor issue straight I plan to put some compressed air on the intake to listen for any hissing. The car was already a single conversion when I bought it with a blown engine and there are so many unused ports/connections!
These would probably be considered a medium/large street port. I'm not positive that I don't have a vac leak too. After I get the coolant sensor issue straight I plan to put some compressed air on the intake to listen for any hissing. The car was already a single conversion when I bought it with a blown engine and there are so many unused ports/connections!