I still havent installed the pump. And my car already runs like a bastard when cold. I guess the 850 primaries arent helping that. Im just waiting until I can afford a fpr and bigger secondaires before i install the pump. Hopefully I can adjust the fuel pressure that way to help with the startup problems of running rich.

That link didnt work for me.

 

Here is my setup. went with 2 walbro fuel pumps. You need Volume not pressure. dont fall into the High pressure club. this is a set up a local shop does for 400.00 you send them your fuel hanger and they get the pums install and send it back. real nice set up. pays for itself and any reasonable aeromotive set-up will cost ya 550.00 to 650.00. this set up is good to about 680 RWHP

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/DSC04265.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/DSC04267.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/DSC04268.jpg

 

Thats pretty sick.

 

Hrm, that looks like something pretty easy to do myself. Dont even need to waste the money on NOS parts, just get brass fittings from Home Depot. Thats what I used to hook up my wet kit on my old car. Saved a bunch of money and hassle and it worked great.

 

Why didnt he heat shrink the solders? The gas wont eat them up will it?

 

Yeah, really...all that great work and no heatshrink.

 

The gas will not eat the solder, it will however eat the heatshrink. No sense in it.

If you haven't noticed your stock pump also has bare electrical connections in the tank...

 

No intank return line? How does that NOT increase pressure a shitload?

 

jeremybBut when you have a walbro... isnt it bad to have it going low high low high all the time expecially if you're on the track or coninuosly racing? because when i cruise and stuff i basically dont go past 3 unless on freeway so its better to have it at stock setting so it's switched to low... but when i race id rather have it full voltage at all times so no matter what i know my pump isnt going low high low high low high. And from what i researched the walbro only spits fuel like crazy and not needed is when the engine is cold due to full voltage... but my motor wont be cold when i race... itll be more than just "warmed up".and when im done and driving normal again i can just switch it back to normal settings.
** again this is just a suggestion and theory therefore needing much feedback **
(I'm helping you out gamezilla )

Jeremy

No one still?

 

I dont understand what more you're wanting here. We told you that the stock resistor varies voltage between 9 and 12vdc depending on load. At 9, the pump puts out less pressure and volume than at 12, so your fuel usage is lowered a little bit during cruise.

The main reason people wire around the resistor is for peace of mind. The resistor and relay take a second or maybe even 2 to kick up to high voltage, and with a modded turbo rotary you want all the fuel you can muster available early in the boost range. That, coupled with the fact that by pulling power straight off the fusebox you can actually get 13.5-14vdc instead of 12-12.5 out of the resistor circuit, make it a worthwhile free mod to most people.

The dream setup would be a boost actuated switch and relay of your own, with all new high quality wiring and connectors, pulling power directly from the battery, and user adjustable from the cabin.

Still, there are rumors floating around that walbros do not behave well on low voltage, compared to a stock pump. I've never seen proof of this, but it's just another thing to consider when wiring around the stock dual voltage setup.

Now, what more do you want?

 

I posted that because i didnt want to spit too much fuel... wasting my gas... when i cruise when its not needed... or on the streets. So i was wondering if i could hook up a a rocker switch that will at one pole, have the wires routed through the resistor holding at a dual voltage set-up for cruising and daily driver. And then when switched to your other pole, have the pump wired straight from the fuse box at 13.5-14vdc like you said. That was my main question... to see if anyone has done it and if it is harmful to the pump or not. I've heard that walbros have a tendency to burn out after a while with the dual voltage set-up due to it going high and low repeatedly in extreme cases explaining why you wire to high voltage all the time. So RotaryRessurection, your explanation helps me a whole bunch in explaning how the resistor is bypassed and that running a straight line to the fuel pump from the fuse box gives higher vdc. But my main question was still not answered... Is it harmful or has anyone done this switch mod im talking about?

Jeremy