Now then, still in the saga of trying to get my RX7 to fire up ever since it arrived at the docks, tried new battery, new plugs, un-flooding procedures, etc etc and still nothing. Now then I called in the help of a mechanic mate of mine who towed it to his garage, he's not had much experience of rotary engines before, but told me this:

The car has got spark on all four plugs, and there appears to be compression to the engine, there is fuel pressure...... but the fuel is a funny clear colour and smells strange.

Now when the car arrived from Japan, it had 1/4 of a tank of fuel, and i put a further 1/4 in of fresh 99RON petrol. Now if the petrol has gone contaminated on the boat ride over here would a 50/50 mix of old and fresh petrol still manage to start the car or would it be too weak?

He's currently syphening out the old stuff, and im waiting to put in some fresh.

Personally im not holding out much hope as I still think the engine is blown, but it would be nice if it was just contaminated fuel.

What do you guys think??

Also while its out of commision, i've decided to order a few bit and bobs for it so here are a few more questions:

1.) What is the best/most efficient radiator you can get? Koyo? Fuildyne?
2.) Are uprated plug leads a good idea for these cars? Magnecor?
3.) I want to get a good all round turbo kit (single), id be happy with about 400bhp as it's only a weekend car.
4.) What's the best front mount intercooler?

Of course i would just settle for an FD that worked at the moment!

 

1. I believe their cooling characteristics are virtually the same, but I think the Koyo fits better.
2. Unless you are pushing more fuel/boost, you wont see too much of a change. I personally use MSD 10mm wires w/ NGK Iridium plugs.
3. Any single turbo kit for the FD will get you around 400hp, it all depends how much you are willing to spend. Ball bearing turbos with a zero-clearance abradable coating will run more efficiently, but will also run more money.
4. Whats the purpose of the car? SMIC seems to be the prefered IC for road racers/people who actually use the car like it was meant to be used, while FMIC seems to be for drag racers and people who want bling.

 

fluidyne fits better.

 

You need a proper compression test (separate readings for each rotor face) to determine if the engine is "blown." "Appears to be compression" doesn't indicate much.

 

After you get the fuel changed out in the tank try running some gas through the fuel ines to make sure what your getting is the new stuff and then use ATF to help the apex seals do there job. WIth fresh plugs and fuel and ATF to help the seal if there's spark you should get it to at least start.

 

Thanks for the reply's guys. Can but try!