3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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general gen 3s

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Old 10-09-02, 12:07 AM
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general gen 3s

im looking at getting a gen 3 turbo in the future (about 8 months) and was wondering what is the general concensus about them. is one year preferred over another? (ie 94 over 93 and 95?) and generally how hard are they to keep in good condition? i know of several people who are DIYs that either own a 3rd gen or have worked exensively on them and i am a DIY to some extent so how hard would it be to keep one in good condition? are there any specific things that make it a whole lot easier (like upgrade the cooling system?)

performance wise what are the top few mods to do? im not looking for big HP really, somewhere in the low or mid 300s. i really want it to just be a quick daily driver for the summer/good weather months that can hang with the bigger toys (VR4s and BPU supras mainly)

if there is a site that answers a lot of these questions can someone give a link? ive looked around a rx7store.net and such but havent really found any good FAQs about the car.
Old 10-09-02, 12:21 AM
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Hey bro,

we get many of these posts per week almost identical to yours


if you click on the 3rd generation specific tab up top and then look at the first few threads that are up there permanently those will help you with all of your questions.
If you get some more in depth questions then use the search link in the top right near the featured car that has been up there for like 10 fu**ing years.

then if you search and can't find anything or have a different question then post a new thread like you just did.
good luck
Snook
Old 10-09-02, 01:57 AM
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OK i'm not the expert but I wanna be a post ***** so here goes:

93 - R1, touring, base model packages.

Base model is actually the fastest wince it's lightest. The R1 and touring rear wing actually increases drag I've heard. The R1 is stiffer suspension so if you plan on AutoX and track racing that's good, but it's aparently a rough ride. Touring has the rear wing and a sunroof. If you are getting the car for "fun" but also as a daily driver (which is not recommended) you should maybe get a touring, as it's got a sunroof The touring weighs about 100 more pounds I think.... R1 weighs 15 more pounds or something like that.

94, 95 - R2 - Softer suspension.

I dunno about the specific year differences tho.
Old 10-09-02, 03:33 AM
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Read through the posts on this site as well as Rob Robinette's and Steve Scuderia's. That should keep you busy for quite a long time. You do have to maintain perspective and resist the urge to get as paranoid as reading these sites will make you.

As far as years go, I'm biased but 95s are the best as they have had the most updates from Mazda. However, 95s are extremely rare (only 500 imported), so don't hold out for one. I also prefer the PEP/PEG option package (94 and 95 only) as it has cruise, leather, sunroof without the BOSE POS.

All that being said, when it comes down to it, you ignore what model and year it is and simply pick the one in the best shape. It is relatively easy and inexpensive to "convert" any of the models to any of the other ones -- except for adding a sunroof to a base or R model.
Old 10-09-02, 05:00 AM
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http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/ has lots of great info. The site is owned by Steve Cirian. The name of the site is similar to "Scuderia Ferrari", which is what the little "SF" stands for in the Ferrari logo. Scuderia means "stable" as in "where you keep your thoroughbreds". Ciriani is Cirian with an 'i' at the end, to return it to its pre-Americanized form.

Rob's site is also excellent. It is now hosted by Scott Hickerson since Rob sold his car. http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/

I have a 93 so perhaps I am a little biased, but I don't think the later cars are significantly more reliable. Find the nicest car you can, and don't pay much attention to the model or year. I'd rather have a clean 93 than a beat-up 95 R2, for instance.

-Max
Old 10-09-02, 06:26 AM
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To get somewhere from the low to mid 300rwhp will cost you a good low to mid $3,000.
Old 10-10-02, 10:14 AM
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intake 300
dp + midpipe 385
cb 400
fuel pump 200
manual boost controller 15 bucks
used non programable ecu 400

turn the boost to 13 psi when you want to be fast and bring it down to 10 for normal driving
You should have over 300rwhp with this.

1,700 and you could do way better if you looked around for deals or used parts

Am I forgetting something? Sure you should get an intercooler but you don't need it if you aren't constantly running 13 psi.
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