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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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Gauges wiring help

Hey, A little help on gauge wiring.

My gauges have two power wires, one needs constant 12V and other is 12V switched.

I used the fuse box by the clutch for the switched 12V.

Where is the best place for a 5A fused 12V source? This is the constant source that I need to find.

Also a good source for instrument dimming. Is there any other place besides tapping into the dimmer switch? I dont want to remove my dash.

Last edited by jayscoobs; Jan 22, 2013 at 03:41 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...cts%2A-239260/

Taken directly from the FAQs. Please read the FAQs as there is a ton of information that has been covered numerous times.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:15 PM
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Completly overlooked that thread when I was in the FAQs.

Last edited by jayscoobs; Jan 22, 2013 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 05:30 PM
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If you have plans to relocate your battery, or it is already relocated, I highly recommend incorporating a fuse block. This can be used to power interior accessories such as gauges or a boost controller, and it doesn't put additional load on preexisting circuits. The fuse block will pull its source from the battery, but has a switched signal wire that you can attach to the ignition for switched power.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by XLR8
If you have plans to relocate your battery, or it is already relocated, I highly recommend incorporating a fuse block. This can be used to power interior accessories such as gauges or a boost controller, and it doesn't put additional load on preexisting circuits. The fuse block will pull its source from the battery, but has a switched signal wire that you can attach to the ignition for switched power.
Interesting. Do you have pics of your setup? Ill probably relocate battery eventually but not now.

Also whats a good way to wiretap into that line for constant 12V? Should I just use one of those wire tap suitcases.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:27 PM
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I used T Taps so I didn't have to cut my wires. Also made for a clean install.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:44 PM
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http://www.ls1fc.com/pdfs/FD_Battery_Relocation.pdf
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 07:46 PM
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Will this work?

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...yword=wire+tap
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 03:17 PM
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Okay that gauge wiring from the FAQs is too vague. I only see one big blue connector under the dash. And does he mean left facing the front of the car or the rear. I wish he said what color is the wire. Id hate to tap the wrong one.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 03:38 PM
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Know how to use a multimeter?
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Not really, I dont know what the dial has to be on for me to find out the voltage. Plus id have to disconnect the plug to test? Last time I used my multimeter I used it wrong and the probes and wires got really hot.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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At least you're honest. Well to find 12v, set your multimeter to dc voltage. Touch the black probe to ground(chassis) and probe the suspected wire with the red probe. The multimeter will read 12v or zero. Just ensure when you do this you have the key off and the battery connected to find your constant 12v.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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Is it possible to probe behind the connector to get to the wire? I dont want to unplug that plug because I cant really get to it. Id have to take off a few interior panels.

Also when I go DCV on the meter, Do I pick 300, 200, 20, 2, 200m

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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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Pick 20. And yes you can back probe the wire. As long as the probe touches the pin you're ok. The numbers indicate a range for volts you're measuring.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 09:00 PM
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Wow this is why I dont do electrical. I touched one wire with the probe, grounded the multimeter with the other probe and sparks flew. Now my light that lights up the ignition wont come on.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Ok. Well there is an order to things. I'm sorry if I was not clear on my instructions. If you do this as instructed, sparks should not fly.

Ensure battery is connected
Ensure key is OFF
Set Multimeter to 20v DC
Touch black probe to ground [a known ground point within harnesses or just chassis]
Touch red probe to suspected 12v DC source.

If you probe a wire that is NOT 12v, you will encounter 0v on your multimeter. If you probe a wire that IS 12v, your multimeter will indicate 12v.


If you do not feel confident in using a multimeter, I'm sure with enough searching you can find a picture of the proper wire you're looking for. Otherwise you'll have to wait till I'm back in town to send a picture of the proper wire.

Matt
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 09:57 PM
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Yeah I searched all threads and there was no clear enough answer. The only one I found was radio harness but there was no pics and I don't want to remove everything just to get to it. Everyone just used the ignition source on the fuse block but I guess I'm one of the few that has gauges that require a constant 12V source as well.

I did exactly as you described, the only difference is that I put the probe in the wire first then I touched the ground and sparks flew. Also another odd thing that happened after that is my trip meter was reset.
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 05:50 AM
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Did you unplug the harness that you're probing? Remember that's a constant 12v. That's used for memory a lot of the time. That's why your trip meter reset. Sparks flew and you probably blew the bulb for your ignition courtesy light. Proper sequence is important here.

Matt
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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Yeah I didn't unplug. So since sparks flew that was a constant 12V? but I know the ignition light shuts off when the car is started. Need to find a different wire.
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 08:23 PM
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Doesnt look like my courtesy bulb is blown. The metal points are still touching each other. Weird. I still havent located a constant 12V. Car is down for a week at the moment.
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