I recently purchased my forth fd as a winter project.

I decided that the first thing I wanted to do was upgrade the fuel system. I purchased a Supra TT Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, and a secondary rail with 1300cc injectors (also got a PFC).

I decided to start with the "easiest" upgrade, first .... the fuel pump no brainer right?

So today I go in to swap the pump out and what do I find? A LOT of rust. Not sure if you can tell in the pic but the screws practically disintegrated when I sprayed them with wd-40.

Has anyone had this issue before? How did you proceed? Even if you haven't, any suggestions?

 

wow... thats all kinds of jacked up.... my suggestion FWIW drain the tank, find a new tank lid/cover/door thing and find as much all new hardware as you can, then before you put the new pump back in swish some gas around in there to wash out any debris that could have fallen in. certainly wont be elegant, but it'll get the job done.

 

I would replace that whole cover and the screws. It should be easy to find used.

Start soaking them in PB Blaster and get an impact driver with brass hammer. You really don't want to strip any of the screws holding down the cover, really. Using an impact driver you should not have any issue loosening them, just give the driver a good firm tap without denting the shape of the tank.

The entire fuel tank gets washed with road spray. It looks like this car saw some winter driving. I don't know if it's necessary to drain the tank but definitely look around inside for rust. Since I'm sure you're replacing the fuel filter, if there is any rust at all you will see rusty fuel dripping out the tank end of the old filter.

If you see rust inside buy another tank.

 

Once you get the screws out, replace them with Allen head stainless steel screws. You can probably get a bag of them from McMaster-Carr for a few bucks. Put a little anti-sieze on the threads and they'll be no problem down the road if you have to get back in there.

I also agree on the impact screwdriver. Even non-winter-driving rust-free cars, it's a good idea to use an impact screwdriver on those screws. They're small, soft screws, and they're typically seized in place.

And, +1 to PB Blaster. WD-40 is NOT a rust penetrant, works great for rustproofing freshly cleaned cast or steel parts and for very minor lubricant tasks, but it doesn't eat rust. PB Blaster eats rust like crazy, it is THE product to use. Hit all the screw heads up, let it soak in for a few minutes, then go with the impact screwdriver. You'll be good.

Oh, when you go to take the fuel hoses off, WD-40 is of use there. Pull the hose clamp back, squirt the end of the hose with WD-40, then use hose pliers (they have a rounded end) to wiggle the hose back and forth. The WD-40 will work in between the rubber and the steel tube, lubriating that joint and making the hose slip off much easier. PB Blaster could work there, but it penetrates DEEP into the rubber, and it could soften or erode the rubber over time. WD-40 won't.

Dale

 

Update: So I purchased an impact screwdriver and tried removing the screws that way. No Luck! The tank flexes too much and the screwdriver won't bite. A friend who is pretty knowledgable on cars suggested grinding off the heads of the screws, then prying off the tank cover/fuel pump assembly. He the suggested using a small vice grip on the heads of the screws (the portion sticking up after the cover is off) and using that to unscrew them. Any thoughts before I proceede?

 

I love it. Added to my list of small mods! Thanks, Dale.

 

mmm.... grinding near massive amounts of fuel (and MUCH more importantly FUEL FUMES) is not something I would like to do. Being burned hurts very badly...

I like the other suggestion from your friend and trying to get them loose with a small pair of vicegrips. Soak the screw in PB blaster, wait a lil while and them clamp onto it hardcore with a pair of vicegrips to break loose. Really once it is loose you can use a regular screwdriver.

SS allen screws huh dale? Do you just sit around all day thinking this genious **** up? I love it and I am not on the way to the hardware store.

 

No its the same friend. He said grind off heads, pry off cover... then use vice grips on what's left of the head after its been ground.

 

thought about using one of those screw tap sets? I used one on my OMP and finally got the rounded screw out.

 

I had the exact same problem.

Actually the heads were so softened from rust that they got completely destroyed with the impact screwdriver, well actually three of them. So what I did was drill out the heads. Then I removed the fuel pump assembly. After that I made a template to cover the gas tank and drilled out the screws and tapped M4*0.7.

After I went and got some M4*0.7 bolts with washers and tightened it by screwdriver. 1 of the screws doesn't really sit as I would like so I am going to be getting another gas tank but for the moment this will do. FWIW, my tank never showed any signs of flex like you are mentioning.

 

Drilling>Grinding, just as Zero Degree Burns>3rd Degree Burns

Dale makes a great point, we upgrade all customer cars that come through the shop for a fuel pump upgrade with similar hardware

Btw, in all my years I have *never* seen rust that bad. Yikes.

 

Sorry the impact driver didn't work. I promise you'll find yourself using it elsewhere on other projects.

I would try grinding SLOWLY and have someone spray water on the cutter wheel the entire time. Don't want sparks, that's for certain.

I would try cutting slots into the heads at first to see if a flathead profile will work better. I've had good success with that as long as I take my time and make a nice clean rectangular slot in each head.

Dave

 

don't grind or cut it, get a good pair of vicegrips, clamp them down as tight as humanly possible (in the vertical position) and then turn like a screwdriver. The screw heads are tall enough for the vicegrips to hold if you get them on tight enough.

 

i actually just be the top head off with a screwdriver. lol. I have a spare cover..well, whole fuel assembly if you interested

 

Need to PM me with pics and price. Unless you donating it

 

Update: I was able to get the fuel pump out. But it's been an ordeal. I purchased a new assembly minus the stock pump. I was able to get 3 scewn or with the PB blaster, the impact screwdriver was useless on screws of that size. Plus the tank flexed too much. I used a combination of drilling and grinding the remaining 5 screws. Got them out and swaped in the new assembly. Still not done. The bolt for the ground connection came off the old assembly with the screw section. Need a new bolt or I need to be able to get the broken acres section out. The it's on to the fuel filter.

 

Update: previous post done on my iphone, which apparently did alot of word corrections for me. Fuel pump assembly is now all the way in.I had to buy a new bolt for the ground but its all together now. Got the fuel filter out (pain in the *** to say the least) and capped the fuel lines. Just took a shower and I still smell of gas. Any way got the new filter into the assembly will try to put it back in when I get a couple of free hours. Thanks for all the help. Will provide one last update when I put the filter in and fire the car up.

 

Old and new Fuel Pump before installation of the new. Old and new filter. Next step is the filer install.

 

Everything is back together, and the is running, but my fuel gauge appears to be screwed up. I double checked the wiring and the hardware and everything looks good. Any ideas.

 

the senders are pieces of crap, did you test it?

 

Do you know which size and length of allen head screw will be needed to do this? Should we also use washers or would that be overkill?

Nate

 

You probably already figured this out but...

I had the same problem when I replaced my fuel pump. In my case the tiny little grounding post snapped off when I was removing the cover and I didn't notice. It's a tiny little thing and easy to miss.

Looking at the photos of your fuel pump assemblies, the one on the left seems to be missing the post.

Hope that helps you or someone else that might have the same problem

 

anyway to upgrade the fuel instrument to show real time gas?.. i know after i fill up from where ever it its, it will take like 3 or 5 mins to get to full