I’m looking for some help with part numbers for this one of year’s holiday season upgrades for my FD...

Basically, I have a new Denso drop-in fuel pump that I bought from Banzai awhile back. I have been hesitating to install it after reading that it might overpower the stock FP wiring. I want to make up a patch harness using the existing FP power to activate a supplemental relay powered directly from the battery but I really don’t want to hack up the stock wire harness to do this. I’d much rather make up a patch harness that would plug into the existing harness plug and FP plug.

I imagine that there are AMP plugs that can be used, it’s just getting the correct ones that is the hard part. Anybody happen to know the part numbers of these plugs?

 

I just de-pin the connector and use a slip terminal and heat shrink.

 

Exactly what he said. De-pin it and build your harness off the stock harness. Having said that, the stock wiring isn't the best and you want to have a larger 10 gauge wire off the battery. Don't forget your inline fuse and if you need any help or ideas, let us know.

Last thing, the factory bulkhead connectors go bad quite commonly. You may want to replace it with a Racetronix connector so you can just be done with it. I'm speaking from experience here; this is a project you do not want to re-do.

Nick

 

Here is the one I purchased, by the way:

Racetronix - Item Print Page

It was a nice kit, but again a pain in the *** to install. In the end, it's worth it knowing I won't have to re-do it later on.

Nick

 

I've used the Racetronix connector and while I didn't have any leaks, I didn't feel confident about how it secured. Its only held together by a clip and still moves around white a bit when seated. I depin the stock connector and put in pins from Ballinger motorsports that accept 12 gauge wire. Although many recommend 10 gauge, I feel it is overkill and difficult to work with. Even a high amp drawing pump like a Walbro 450 comes with 12 gauge from the factory. I use the stock fuel pump wires to trip a relay which then draws power from the battery directly to the pump. I also make a jumper and put it in place of the fuel pump relay up front to bypass the fuel pump resistor.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I know I can depin the connector and that may be the way I will have to go, however I really want to make a plug in solution that I can reverse every 2 years when I have to undergo smog check. Where I live in California, really the only way to pass is with the stock ECM and stock main cat. I don't know what will happen to the idle and low speed A/F with the pump running at full voltage, if it gets richer then the car will fail. So my plan is to make a system that can be easily reversed - hence trying to locate the plug p/n. I can still do this using the depin method but I would prefer to not do it that way if possible.

 

Mazda has some connectors available, but basically you need to post pics, and either AMP, Mazda, or Motorcraft would have it.

 

Igor, I agree with you on the fitment. I decided to use some fuel safe sealant on the inside of the bulkhead to eliminate my worries and it also made it quite a bit more rigid.

I forgot to take pictures but it seemed to do the trick and I was pleased with the quality of the kit.

Nick

 

I did the same thing. Like I said, it didn't leak but it made me feel uneasy.

 

Can you clarify which pins from Ballinger Motorsports? Is there a part number you use?

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/in...jdmbjq3u0ro6b5

 

I use these Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo HX / DL / SL Sealed Series Female terminal 18 - 16 AWG Terminal, loose piece

 

Can someone explain how to repin it? I cant figure it out. I've only been able to get the orange piece off. Can't get the wires out of the back.

 

Not sure if the connector is the same design but if it's like the ECU, then this should help

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...werfc-1166033/

 

Thank you, this helped me figure it out.