Fuel pump ghetto wiring and cruise control issue question
05-13-12, 01:26 AM
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Fuel pump ghetto wiring and cruise control issue question
As I've started tearing down my 93 for the resto, as I figured with a modded 20 year old car, I've uncovered some pretty questionable stuff.
My latest discovery was that the white wire w/ red stripe for the fuel pump was cut under the door sill, then hooked straight into the in cabin fuse block under the 20A WIPER fuse (which ties to the heater control/wiper motor/ABS unit). After some Googling, I found that directly wiring the FP to the fuse block helps with voltage drop issues. I'm fine as long as this is a fix, but shouldn't the wire be hooked into the FUEL PUMP 20A fuse and not the WIPER 20A fuse? I'm guessing that someone just mixed up their fuses when doing this, but I want to be sure. I'm also going to solder the wire where it's spliced together instead of leaving it butt connected.
Problem #2 is my cruise control system. I have replaced the CC actuator assembly, the CC module, and tested the buttons and pedals with the OBD function for the CC system. As far as I can tell, every steering wheel and pedal switch is functioning properly, so where should I look next? I can turn on the CC system with the dash button, but I can't set it. The only time that I've seen the green CRUISE light come on in the speedo is when I've used the OBD tests.
I've tried to refrain from posting questions so far, but these two have me scratching my head. I certainly want to figure out the fuel pump wiring before I start messing with that, and the CC system has me a little frustrated at best. Thanks in advance for any help.
My latest discovery was that the white wire w/ red stripe for the fuel pump was cut under the door sill, then hooked straight into the in cabin fuse block under the 20A WIPER fuse (which ties to the heater control/wiper motor/ABS unit). After some Googling, I found that directly wiring the FP to the fuse block helps with voltage drop issues. I'm fine as long as this is a fix, but shouldn't the wire be hooked into the FUEL PUMP 20A fuse and not the WIPER 20A fuse? I'm guessing that someone just mixed up their fuses when doing this, but I want to be sure. I'm also going to solder the wire where it's spliced together instead of leaving it butt connected.
Problem #2 is my cruise control system. I have replaced the CC actuator assembly, the CC module, and tested the buttons and pedals with the OBD function for the CC system. As far as I can tell, every steering wheel and pedal switch is functioning properly, so where should I look next? I can turn on the CC system with the dash button, but I can't set it. The only time that I've seen the green CRUISE light come on in the speedo is when I've used the OBD tests.
I've tried to refrain from posting questions so far, but these two have me scratching my head. I certainly want to figure out the fuel pump wiring before I start messing with that, and the CC system has me a little frustrated at best. Thanks in advance for any help.
Last edited by Nataphen; 05-13-12 at 01:51 AM.
05-19-12, 05:24 PM
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#1 I'm not sure about the exact wiring the fuel pump should have it's own fuse. What it is named doesn't matter as long as it is exclusive to the fuel pump and 20A. It would of course make it clearer if it was named correctly. Use the wiring diagrams to double check what the previous owner did.
#2 At what speeds do you try the CC. I know mine doesn't work above 110km/h. (I don't know if the big bright green light lits up or not because it has always been daylight when I tried...)
#2 At what speeds do you try the CC. I know mine doesn't work above 110km/h. (I don't know if the big bright green light lits up or not because it has always been daylight when I tried...)
05-19-12, 05:56 PM
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I checked the diagram and the FP fuse is exclusive to the pump, but I just found a good rewire how-to here that I'm going to use to redo mine.
The cruise control doesn't seem to work at any speed. I've tried anything from 35-70MPH.
The cruise control doesn't seem to work at any speed. I've tried anything from 35-70MPH.
05-19-12, 10:04 PM
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Rewiring your fuel pump should honestly only be done on modified 7s. If your 7 is stock I would suggest just running it as the factory intended.
As for your cruise control. You need two switches to be working properly for the cruise control to engage. Does your button's amber light illuminate? If it does, then investigate the continuity on your brake and clutch switches. Also ensure the plastic bump is still in place and actually engaging the switches when the pedals are fully released.
Matt
As for your cruise control. You need two switches to be working properly for the cruise control to engage. Does your button's amber light illuminate? If it does, then investigate the continuity on your brake and clutch switches. Also ensure the plastic bump is still in place and actually engaging the switches when the pedals are fully released.
Matt
05-20-12, 07:19 AM
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The car is modified. I'm actually going to have to switch to the Supra pump soon because I'm upgrading the secondary injectors to 1600s.
The amber light on the dash switch does illuminate. From all the tests that I performed in the diagnostic mode, the brake and clutch pedal switches show to be fine. I've done everything that I can think of short of actually testing everything with a meter, and I was under the impression that the OBD mode tested the switches for you so that you didn't have to do that. It's in the service manual if you guys don't know what I'm talking about.
You turn the key to on, hold down the dash ON switch and the RESUME/ACCEL switch simultaneously for a few seconds until the CRUISE light flashes in the cluster. After that, you can hit the brake, clutch, and steering switches. The green CRUISE light will flash in a certain series of long and short flashes that you cross reference with the service manual to see if they are all working properly. All my switches passed this test and I replaced the actuator and module which are the only things that this test doesn't encompass. I guess I'll have to start checking everything with a meter if I want to know for sure.
The amber light on the dash switch does illuminate. From all the tests that I performed in the diagnostic mode, the brake and clutch pedal switches show to be fine. I've done everything that I can think of short of actually testing everything with a meter, and I was under the impression that the OBD mode tested the switches for you so that you didn't have to do that. It's in the service manual if you guys don't know what I'm talking about.
You turn the key to on, hold down the dash ON switch and the RESUME/ACCEL switch simultaneously for a few seconds until the CRUISE light flashes in the cluster. After that, you can hit the brake, clutch, and steering switches. The green CRUISE light will flash in a certain series of long and short flashes that you cross reference with the service manual to see if they are all working properly. All my switches passed this test and I replaced the actuator and module which are the only things that this test doesn't encompass. I guess I'll have to start checking everything with a meter if I want to know for sure.
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