Fuel leak repair what a nightmare job
#1
Full Member
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Fuel leak repair what a nightmare job
I have not drove the FD for few days and as I walked up next to it one day I saw a sign of fluid leak on the ground. I tried smelling it and with all the rain we got in the Bay area it was hard to tell what it was. Maybe Oil, coolant, or gas.
Then one drop came off the sub frame and it was gas. I searched the forum and looks like it might be the fuel pressure damper. I had a fuel pressure regulator leaked on me on a 300ZX before and I seen how they leaked out from the casing.
Lot of fuel on the sub frame
Anyone know if this is supposed to be open like this?? I can't recall taking anything off or disconnecting that vacuum line from anywhere??
Can't see anything and don't want to force it and break more things so took the alternator off for more access and better view of what I doing.
Finally got it off. All the vacuum line are hard as rock.
Got a view of the FPD and there is a pond of fuel next to it. I remember reading about removing the FPD screws right there without taking the rails out. I think I'll try that first instead of trying to move more stuff and give them a chance to fall apart.
Then one drop came off the sub frame and it was gas. I searched the forum and looks like it might be the fuel pressure damper. I had a fuel pressure regulator leaked on me on a 300ZX before and I seen how they leaked out from the casing.
Lot of fuel on the sub frame
Anyone know if this is supposed to be open like this?? I can't recall taking anything off or disconnecting that vacuum line from anywhere??
Can't see anything and don't want to force it and break more things so took the alternator off for more access and better view of what I doing.
Finally got it off. All the vacuum line are hard as rock.
Got a view of the FPD and there is a pond of fuel next to it. I remember reading about removing the FPD screws right there without taking the rails out. I think I'll try that first instead of trying to move more stuff and give them a chance to fall apart.
#2
That 'empty' vacuum line is supposed to be like that if you have a 5 spd. Actually, it should have a mini filter on it (the 'mini filter' sits in that little clip where your vacuum hose is in).
There's also a metal tube that has both ends not hooked up to anything. I guess Mazda engineers thought this would be a nice little 'test' for future owners
There's also a metal tube that has both ends not hooked up to anything. I guess Mazda engineers thought this would be a nice little 'test' for future owners
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
The FPD screws should come loose with a pair of very sturdy pliers (electrician's pliers work well). Plus you won't damage the phillips head doing it.
If you can get the FPD out easily and your boost pattern was good, I'd just bolt up and drive away. But if you get the injectors cleaned you should absolutely change the hoses. It's easier to not break things if you simply cut the old hoses as you take things apart.
Dave
If you can get the FPD out easily and your boost pattern was good, I'd just bolt up and drive away. But if you get the injectors cleaned you should absolutely change the hoses. It's easier to not break things if you simply cut the old hoses as you take things apart.
Dave
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#9
Old Rotary Dog
well, i just did this operation two months ago. the FPD screws were in tight enough to where I had to pull the entire rack and the ACV to get the mail fuel rail out and extract the FPD on a bench.
of couse I broke one of the OMP lines while putting everything back together.
just some warnings - this could take a lot longer and be a lot more involved than you plan for. also I notice that you have OEM lines in the rats nest - if these are original lines then they are probably pretty brittle - take care not to break any.
BTW - what's up with the T-fitting and the check valve?
Good luck,
-bill
of couse I broke one of the OMP lines while putting everything back together.
just some warnings - this could take a lot longer and be a lot more involved than you plan for. also I notice that you have OEM lines in the rats nest - if these are original lines then they are probably pretty brittle - take care not to break any.
BTW - what's up with the T-fitting and the check valve?
Good luck,
-bill
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (14)
As other people have mentioned, while you are in there you should have the injectors cleaned. It is $60 or so for all four from Withchunter and you get new Viton o-rings.
Ray is also selling the fuel hose recall kit at the moment for $75, which comes with a bunch of hoses, and o-rings for fuel related stuff under the manifold.
Ray is also selling the fuel hose recall kit at the moment for $75, which comes with a bunch of hoses, and o-rings for fuel related stuff under the manifold.
#12
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Originally Posted by moconnor
As other people have mentioned, while you are in there you should have the injectors cleaned. It is $60 or so for all four from Withchunter and you get new Viton o-rings.
Ray is also selling the fuel hose recall kit at the moment for $75, which comes with a bunch of hoses, and o-rings for fuel related stuff under the manifold.
Ray is also selling the fuel hose recall kit at the moment for $75, which comes with a bunch of hoses, and o-rings for fuel related stuff under the manifold.
#13
That T piece isnt right. If memory serves, thats the fast idle cam connector, and should go into the actuator on the TB.
I recommend highly replacing all of those hoses and getting your injectors cleaned.
I recommend highly replacing all of those hoses and getting your injectors cleaned.
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