I have always thought that if you are no longer using the OMP and are now premixing you should not utilize deceleration fuel cut. If you cut fuel on decel, you are also cutting the engine lubrication if you are premixing. This is not a solution for your current issue, just highlighting you may be adding wear on the engine internals.

 

Yep, just box them up and send them out if you don’t have anyone local. One of my OG friends on here uses Mr. Injector in Idaho. I have a few sets of 850s that are already cleaned if you run into any issue with yours. Using a small impact screw gun with the correct jis tip makes taking them apart a breeze. Just annoying to get the primary’s out. Resist the urge to try to force the Injector out also. Spray it with some lube get it warmed up and twist them back-and-forth while pulling out.

For the purpose of this test I suggest you keep it at the bottom of the stick or 1/4 way up.

Purge control will be right next to the filler neck. It will be very obvious. It routes right next to the pvc nipple on the front of the UIM.

Also, make sure that the air mixing hose is connected from the nipple on the ypipe to the nipple on the lim that is located low and front of the primary’s. The helps the side feed injectors get a better spray pattern. I’ve tested it both ways and it makes a pretty big difference.

How much are you premixing and what type are you using?

~ GW

 

Note that below the injectors in the hole there sit plastic devices that help the fuel spray. In my case they had crumbled. So you might want to check them when you have the injectors out and know where you can get new ones.

 

 

Primary: N3A2-13-C61
Secondary: N3A1-13-C60
Secondary Diffuser O-Ring: 9954-10-1252

For Primary I would replace, secondary you can just change out the O-Ring and they'll be fine.

 

Yep I've got the stock FPR, i'll check that out, good advice! So if that solenoid fails could it stick closed and completely lose vacuum to the FPR?

And the screws should be good, that was all off a couple years ago!

Thanks for the heads up about the plastic inserts. Those did indeed crumble and I changed them last time I had them out. I guess that would have been a good time to send the injectors in for cleaning, dang it.

 

Yeah I actually tried to disable the fuel cut awhile ago, but my car started acting funny and I didn't look much into it again. I am concerned about excessive wear so I pretty much always drive without letting the fuel cut, it's a bit of a pain.

 

Thanks for the tips about getting the injectors out! If my secondary's turn out bad, i'll hit you up!
Sounds good about the purge control, I'll double check that.
Thanks for the advice about the air mixing hose as well, I'll make sure it's hooked up correctly!

I'm using Lucas ashless 2 stroke oil. a bit over 1 oz per gallon.

 

"So if that solenoid fails could it stick closed and completely lose vacuum to the FPR?"

Yes. It could also be that the solenoid is ok, but your vacuum hose has degraded (happened twice in my car). The ECU will still think the solenoid is doing its job, but your fuel pressure will increase at the injectors.

This may account for the lower AFR reading.

FPR are robust, but i have had one stick closed.

Test it with a vacuum gun.

While you are in there replace the pulsation damper. The little rubber failsafe plug can rot out and the device will spray fuel onto your block.

 

Single turbo, both stock breather hoses go to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. The can has a drain plug at the bottom with a drain hose.
Every time I drive and return home (garaged car), I pull out the dipstick about half way and take off the oil filler cap.
This helps ventilates some gas fumes from the engine oil. You can smell it later in the garage.
Periodically I drain the can.
In summer it takes longer for oil condensation to amount enough to empty the can than winter.

 

I'm not an engine builder and I've never had my car's engine open to check side seal clearance, but the oil smells like fuel and I assume it's due to blowby. When I run E85, the oil smells like E85 instead of smelling like gasoline. It's an unopened engine from a 1996-1999 JDM car, I've added about 30k miles to it (99k on the chassis), has the factory oil filler neck, no catchcan, has the factory PCV setup and intake manifold from the 1994 car.I run the AFR very close to stoich at cruise and idle, even when cold. I usually run 20w50 oil to compensate for the fuel dilution, and the one time I ran 10w40 recently the oil pressure didn't behave as nicely as with 20w50. I posted datalog screenshots here. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...alogs-1170689/

I can't imagine how a catch can would avoid fuel dilution of the oil. My theory is that the fuel's only path into the oil system is getting sprayed into the intake ports when the rotor is shrouding them, and then the oil presumably goes past the side seals and the oil control rings into the oil. Is the point that the fuel becomes vapor because of hot oil temperature, and then the catch can catches some of the fuel? Have people made their oil smell less like fuel by adding a catchcan?

 

I my case the catch can is simply to catch any blow by oil rather have it vent straight to the engine bay The catch can itself vents to the bay.

 

Not my car, but a friends. No catch can.

 

All engines experience blow by, even new engines. On the Street Outlaws series, you could see it on some idling cars (cool/cold air temps) coming from the back of the car but not the exhaust.
My reason for a catch can is to not suck it back into the engine through the IC! This can oil coat every thing and reducing efficiency of the IC.

 

A catch can will minimize fuel dillution of oil if you allow it to have high "crankcase" flow through it.

This could be using both oil filler nipples with adequate sized hose to an open vented catch can or even better a catch can with a constant vacuum to the top (vacuum from between air filter and turbo inlet like stock).

This wont be necessarily any improvement over the stock system in terms of keeping fuel out of engine oil, but aims to remove fuel vapor from "crankcase" while keeping engine oil out of the intake tract.

A well plumbed catch can will definitely be an improvement over a disabled stock "crankcase" vent system or a poorly implemented non stock ventillation scheme.

When I was using stock based ecu with a high flow fuel pump the fuel pressure crept up and all the low load areas of the maps were too rich afrs.

On long cruises in cold weather my catch can (both nipples from oil filler to open catch can) would fill with gasoline. 200 miles would be 1-3 cups depending on how cold it was.

Story time-
I once lit it on fire and let it burn, thats how much gasoline was present.

Racing I had very little (tablespoons) of liquid because engine bay temps were so high the gasoline remained vapor and exited the catch can leaving just the engine oil.

Extended story time-
Once I forgot to empty the catch can before racing and it made a mess.
I am moving my catch can from cruise control area to behind the power steering pump. Hopefully it is a little more warmed by radiator waste heat cruising while still remaining in a fire safe area when/if it overflows.

 

.

Yeah, I am just bedding in an engine I rebuilt with both oil filler nipples open. No issues since Im not doing any of the things that slosh oil up there (cornering/braking/accel gs).

I dont recommend this for a properly driven FD.

 

What is that goopy white residue that sometimes builds up under oil filler cap?

 

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/a...n_DirectSearch

 

its oil mist mixed with water vapor from condensation. if you have more than a little of this, you need to either ignore it, or change the oil more, or drive it on longer trips