After searching I still dont know if front shims are neccessary for heat dispersion at the track or not. I only run 1 shim per pad, but I do boil the ATE Super Blue on the track with Bönez Stage I pads.

I'm getting new pads and need to know if I need to fabricate the shims also (I only have those half-shims).

 

If you are boiling ATE then I don't think the shims will make *that* much difference.

Are you boiling your fluid or are you overheating your pads? The Stage-1 pad is not a true track pad - it's more of an agressive street / auto-x pad from what I have read. When you lose your brakes does your pedal go all the way to the floor or feel mushy? Or does it stay firm and you just can't stop? The former is boiling or water in the brake line. The latter is overheated pads.

The point is, with that setup you should be overheating your pads long before you start to cook your brake fluid.

Did you completely flush your brake fluid before the track event (get the other color of ATE and flush until you see the color change at each of the calipers). It should take about a liter of brake fluid to do this.

You may want to invest in a set of true track pads (do a search on the forums for recommendations).

Good luck,

-bill

 

cruiser,

You bonehead, just use some real lapping pads and you'll be fine. How many times do we have to tell you?

 

Yea... I'm getting some serious pads done as my next set, but need to know if I need that plate or not since I'm already at it

I'm definately boiling the fluid as the pedal just falls to the ground with no resistance and no braking power and needs few pumps to get the brakes to grab at all.

But on the other hand - how much fluid does it take to fully flush the system ? My mechanic did not touch the calipers and said to have sucked out or something (I wasnt there to watch, I went shopping for diff fluid) the brake fluid - i.e. something that didnt require the bleeding of the brakes. But thing is, that he only used up... phew... from the top of my head I'd say only about 1-2dcl of ATE Super Blue. I asked him wheteher he completely flushed the previous fluid and he confirmed it. Should I get my fluid changed again at some other place ? How much fluid do you use up for complete flush ? Can you even perform full flush without bleeding it at the calipers ?


Thanks for input guys.

 

As far as the shims, while I'm sure 2 are better than one, your main problem right now is your brake pads. Get those taken car of first, then I would move onto SS brake lines.

The fluid, it only takes about 1/2 container (1/2 liter) for the system. You have about enough in one container to do 2 changes, however I switch between the yellow and blue just to make sure I get rid of all the old.

BTW, you won't be able to run your lapping pads on the street so keep your Bonez pads around for street duty.

 

One of my Bönez pads got stripped at the track (friction material fell off) so the pads will be resurfaced with performance material (some kevlar stuff).

But I think my main problem is the brake fluid. My mechanic must've done a lousy job changing my brake fluid, as he only used maybe half of the fluid required to fully flush the system. Gonna kick his butt when I see him

 

if your mechanic only used 1-2dcl of fluid, then it sounds like all he did was to drain and refill the resevoir. that is not a flush by any stretch of the imagination. you have to bleed the brakes at the calipers, because that's where all the crappy fluid is. if he did not touch your calipers, then he did not bleed your brakes.

if he did not bleed your brakes, then you still have old fluid sitting down in your calipers and *that* is what you boiled, not the ATE.

find another mechanic who will do the job properly. do a quick search on brake bleeding procedure so that you know the process they *should* be doing before you have it done.

if you plan on tracking more often, then learn how to do it yourself. it's not a difficult procedure if you have a friend to help and you can swap your brake pads at the same time (also something you tend to learn how to do yourself once you start tracking :-)

good luck.

-bill

 

Then no wonder I was boiling the "race-ready" brake bluid after just few laps. Pads were maybe not that much of a problem (max track speed 100mph, braking down to 50 in 3 corners).

I already removed all my pads this weekend. So bleeding the brakes should not be all that difficult I think. I'll try to do the proper bleeding once I install new pads and then take the car back to the track soon and see the results

Do you think getting speedbleeders is a good idea ?
Some suggest Motiveproducts stuff though.

 

I use the Motive Power Bleeder with Speedbleeders. Easy one man job.

 

That's another $100. I need Eibachs, catback, etbrace, tires and laptimer first

How does Motive bleeder works ? You apply pressure at brake fluid reservoir tank and then bleed all 4 corners at the same time ?

 

Skip the etbrace and get the SS brake lines. Much better mod for the track guys.

You still bleed the brakes one at a time, however, you don't need to have anyone jump in the car and pump the brake pedal. Since it's being pressurized, it will just stream out when you open the bleeder.

It's also great to have when you do a cluch job (since you'll most likely loss the pressure in the clutch line and it takes forever to bleed it the normal way).

 

Lapping the track in 3rd (and for a brief moment in 4th) gear only isnt much fun, when I know if I could use 2nd gear on some sections and most likely shave off enough time to spank those M3's that are usually faster then me. SS brake lines are also on my list. But with limited budget (hopefully this will change soon) I need to have priorities

 

Exactly, and the SS lines should be a hirer priority than the etbrace.