well iv been thinking and i just want to know why you people went with a stock or front mount. im not sure what i want, for a stock mount i was thinking the Cool Charge 3 but i like that the front mount also give a little more room in the engine bay, they both seem great.

 

Track = stock mount
highway pulls = front mount is ok
stop and go traffic = stock mount as well

thewird

 

V-mount of i you can afford it. I have a Front mount and its fine with some ducting.

 

I´ve not driven different setups.
But when I look at temperatures and power on my car, I can recommend anyone to go V-Mount!

 

I like v-mount best too.

 

 

V-mount is obviously the better choice but it is also more expensive.

thewird

 

I love the look of a FMIC, however for a street car a SMIC works just fine. The main thing with a SMIC is to make sure you have ducting.

 

I went stock mount for these resons:

1) engine bay runs cooler than a FMIC
2) Quiker spool due to shorter pipes
3) Modified engine stealth (for cops and thieves)
4) Didn't feel like forking out $$$ for a V-mount. I may one day just not today.

 

v/stock mount!!!

 

I ended up getting the PFS stock mount (the small one) for a helluva good price, so that's what I'm going with.

 

I think it depends on what kind of boost level/turbo's you plan on running, and the application the vehicle will be used for.

I've currently got a GReddy SMIC, and will be switching to a v-mount as soon as the rest of my parts arrive from the states. A thick SMIC (with proper ducting) is great for anything under 1 bar, but I'd look at A/I or a larger core if you're planning on going much higher.

Also don't forget about heat soak... ducting in and out is critical for a smic.

If you've got the cash I'd say do it right, once, and get yourself a good v-mount with a vented hood.

 

When I think about it, one question comes to mind: Which is more important, a cooler intake charge or a more efficient cooling system? In the hot climate of Southern California, I definitely feel as though an efficient cooling system for a hot-running motor is very important. So, I'm running the SMIC until I can afford a v-mount

 

I had a FMIC (Greddy) on my old FD. It looked cool but I didn't like the hacking I had to do to run the pipes, the lag it added and the temperature spikes in traffic jams. So my vote goes to a SMIC for simplicity and not increasing turbo lag.

 

I vouch for SMIC as well. I have a M2 med. and it works great. FMIC for drag and if you track your car, or street driving, SMIC or V mount all the way. FMIC also prone for debris and rocks damaging the fins.

 

i want to go v mount but 2k for it and then the install looks like a pain if i can maybe if i get into some money i may go that way, but i would like to run 15-17 psi on my bnr stage 3s

 

15-17psi is doable with the BNR's and an SMIC. You just need to insure you have adequate ducting. Also, a little bit of A/I never hurts ;-).

I'm currently running 1.1bar (16-17psi, depending on variation) with a GReddy SMIC and *crap* ducting, the Aquamist system pretty much makes up for the ducting (or lack thereof).

 

I'm looking to sell my Greddy SMIC if you want it. I'm going front mount contrary to everyone's beliefs.

I just need a better radiator than the stocker.

 

i was looking at the A/I but i just dont get it, how it works and such, iv been to the section on the fourm and looked at it on rx7store. i mean whats the diff between the $200 kit or the $1000(just throwing in random numbers).... thats really all you got out of 15-16 psi? only making 325? i would of expected a little more, Makes me wonder what i would get

 

IIRC Levi's dyno reads way lower than ours here in the US.

 

That would be a mistake. I thought you were smarter than that

 

This is true, between 15% and 18% lower actually (iirc), which would place me at around 375-383rwhp, if/when, I roll onto a dyno after I get back to the states Which ain't half bad for a car with stock ports

As for the science of how A/I works I'd do a little reading into the FAQ section there, and/or check www.howstuffworks.com. Basically the way it boils down though, is that:

1 - Without A/I, when you put your foot down you go faster, but your intake temps climb (the speed at which they rise depends on amount of boost, and size/efficiency of your IC).

2 - With A/I when you put your foot down you still go faster, however intake temps stay the same, or drop lower (depending on how big of a nozzle you are using, and what PSI it starts pushing at).

A) The down side is that it is not uncommon to have a loss of peak power with A/I (you ARE injecting water into the combustion chamber, typically a no-no). The exact amount of power lost can be tweaked with by changing nozzle size, when the A/I system engages, and exact percentages of mixture you are injecting (are you mixing Methanol in with your demineralized water?? If so, how much? and is the ECU tuned for this?)

B) However you are also gaining a peace of mind knowing that the mist of water is doing an excellent job of combating pre-ignition.

At the end of the day the difference in price will follow the same general rule of thumb as everything else, you get what you pay for. If you go with some cheapo system from honda's-r-us than you probably won't see as good of results as you would from a system that costs a little bit more, but has solid R&D, support, and results. Personally I'm a fan of Aquamist, they are a british company and do a damn good job (also has awesome spray pattern) imo. Parts are a bit expensive since they mark everything in pounds, however they are all top quality and don't tend to fail prematurely.

 

ok i seem to understand it now.. where do the nozzels go? and whats the diff between running meth or water or both?

 

Running water would be purely to lower intake charge temps and protect against detonation.

Running meth would be to fight against detonation by enriching the a/f.

 

I believe meth also helps lower intake temp as well, it atomizes quiet easily iirc.

And running both is the best of both worlds