You mean V-Mount?

 

Anyone know about the V-mount. Pretty damn expensive but looks like a quality setup.

 

I did a 3Row Trust FMIC with a Fluidyne upright , with the fan mod installed, AC infront of the Rad, fans to the back. Normal driving temps 85-90 DegC and on-boost temps get up to 95/97 Deg C. Putting an additional fan in front of the AC just to be safer and also, cause I've got the room to do it so why not.

3G7

 

I have the Rotary Extreme V-mount in my car. The pictures are on their website, that silver car is mine.
I also have their twin 25 row monster oil coolers. I don't have that many miles since the installation but so far it's awesome. The car runs very cool, I still have my AC and although I haven't taken intake temps yet, the outlet side of the IC is always very cool when you pop the hood and feel it. I don't run a vented hood and I don't think I need to. When you consider you're getting a complete matched system that performs as good or better than anything else available, the current group buy price makes it a bargain IMHO. Not to mention, it looks very cool! Tom

 

I finally ran Speed Sauce Rx7 R1 in warmer ambient temps this past weekend @ Putnam Park www.putnampark.com instructing for Central Indiana PCA. Running at a quick pace it took 8 to 9 laps with my student as passenger to reach 118 to 119 C (244 to 246 F), @ which point, I'd back off, cool down, and pit in. By myself, at the same quick pace, I could run 10 laps before temps peaked @ 113 to 114 C (235 to 237 F). Ambient temps this weekend ranged between 76 to 78 F (not quite 80 F). The upshot with the Greddy 2-row FMIC setup is that boost was a steady 11 psi with J-spec twins, and manifold air temps peaked @ 50 C (122 F) . Interestingly the water temps drop quickly once I back off of the gas, and drive 10 seconds slower per lap. Interstate and normal street driving I don't see water temps rise above 87 C (189 F). My FD is mainly a street car, so I'm not bummed about how she's setup.

If I were strictly tracking the FD, I'd go with Chuck Huang's V-mount setup

http://www.rotaryextreme.com/vmount.html

This is the setup I wanted in the beginning (last Nov '02), but Chuck was still @ the prototype stages, and wasn't able to make A/C work with his V-mount setup. Chuck's got everything sorted out now, so for those of you living in hot climates (ambient temps in the 80s-90s), or track the FD hard like I do, go with the V-mount IC/Rad setup. I think Chuck has a group buy going for $2300 (usually $2800).

Nice setup, Tom! If you ever track the silver beast, let us know how your air and water temps look!

 

IMHO, a larger SMIC is not the best answer for a track-only FD Rx7. Chuck's got the right idea with his V-mount. Apparently the Japanese FD racers use this setup.

 

SleepR1,
I love red FD's. I will be spending a day at the track taking some driving lessons in the next couple of weeks so I'll let you know. So far, between the radiator, oil coolers and the IC, it runs very cool so I'm very optimistic. Everyone should also note that the new air box is almost totally open to the front area giving tons of fresh air and ram air effect at speed. Zerobanger has posted many times about his experiences with a modified RxFashion airbox and I think Chuck's new design is about as good as it gets. Tom

 

I'll tell you what happens...You car pulls like a **** and will run a 3-5 °C warmer...@ WOT...I drove for over an hour yesterday (highway) in 92°F ambient temp and the temp fluctuated between 88-89°C on the PFC...Not much of a problem me tinks...However, when passing people @120+ it did go up to 94°C...but then I flipped on the fans and it went right back down to 89° in less than 5 minutes.

I have nothing agains SMICs....but FMICs rule the planet...Why? because I have one!

 

:

 

For anyone reading this thread please do not draw any conclusions about FMIC viability with respect to data provided for street use verses track use. A few back to back WOT pulls on the highway in 92degF will tell you little to nothing about how said car will perform when being wailed upon for 30 minutes on a race track. Use street data to make a decision on street use. Use track data to make a decision on track use.
BTW nice setup Chuck. Shoot me a PM if you wouldn't mind about the AIT sensor relocation. TIA
Regards,
Crispy
PS Manny note Chucks IC/radiator ductwork

 

Crispy's right of course. Believe me I can wail on the little Wankel LOL

Where? Where? I needs to make that IC/Rad shroud...dammit!

 

Manny,
Chuck Westbrooks car:
http://chuck.homestead.com/Engine.html
It was in his sig from a prior posting on this thread. Note the sheetmetal between IC and radiator. Might want to ask him for more pics.
FWIW
Crispy

 

FMICs are good if you only use it as a full track car. Still, V-Mount is preferable!

 

Tough to really see anything. Thanks for the link though...

 

What about using a vented, Crispy? You think that's worth the purchase price in cooling capacity for FDs with FMICs that are tracked hard like mine is?

 

cosidering I couldn't see what is being shown in the pic I thought I'd share an idea I had when I installed my fmic....I wanted (yup still haven't done it) to install a scoop in the plastic belly pan...something that cuts a hole and drops a scoop about .75- 1.0" lower than the belly pan...there there is a piece of sheet metal that runs from the scoop and goes between the AC condensor and the Rad...I think this would create a huge amount of wind rushing infront of the rad...

I have a feeling my though is not as original as I think...Maybe if it hasn't been done yet we can put our noggins together and come up with something good...I even thought of having a SS belly pan made that has the scoop built in...I haven't acted on anything yet because I am not having any heat issues.

 

apnea, well I really don't have an overheating problem on the street. 86 to 87 C is the hottest the motor gets with FMIC with stop-n-go, or interstate. It's the road racing that heats things up...that and 11 psi boost pressure LOL

 

man! How do you guys keep things so cool?!?! I have the Koyo and pettit thermostat installed and in stop and go (albeit Texas heat) I can get the engine temp to creep into the triple digits...
AND I DON'T EVEN HAVE A FRONT MOUNT!!!

BTW, tgreisel does your intake temp rise alot in stop and go traffic with the v-mount? How about heat soak and how long does it take for the intake temp to "recover"?

 

7 Racer:

You may have a bigger problem lurking around. I'm in FL heat and at the highest temp here 98 in stop go traffic with the STOCK radiator I never saw triple digits. I did have a fan mod running and was hitting 95C.

If you are getting triple digits with the Koyo and Pettit thermo I'd flush the coolant out, replace and do some tests to check your cooling system integrity.

I know Texas heat can be worse but just my experience over here.

 

7racer: Right now I have an M2 ecu. I need to put in some guages or a PFC to get some specific info. I have a 3 guage center pod which I was going to put some spa dual guages so I could collect alot of info (but I hear they have some reliability issues). I'll probably get a PFC. It's an ongoing project and right now the weather in northern CA gets real nice so I don't want any more downtime on my car. Bottomline, I can't answer your question, yet. Stay tuned. Tom

 

evot23,

thanks I'll take a look....I had my engine rebuilt in LA when she blew and the mechanic said she ran a tad warm...

With the new radiator and thermostat and 30/70 with water wetter it has been really good. Low 80's...if I get into stop and go I do see it go to 95-98ish...and if it REALLY hot outside it will goto 100's...but once I get rolling again it will drop real quick back to the 80's....
Is that a symptom of something wrong? I do have the PFC but need to find someone with a datalogit to turn my fans on sooner...I was hoping that was the problem

Thanks tgriesel! Keep me informed...I am in a hunt for a new intercooler to replace the stock one....decisions, decisions

 

7racer: The V-mount is a major change, unless you want to upgrade your intake, radiator and IC (all at once). If so, it makes alot of sense in terms of performance and price. I went from all stock to V-mount. If you already have upgraded some of your stuff (like the radiator), there are alot of less costly options. Tom

 

Sounds to me like you need a little switch to kick the radiator fans on...

 

es,

yea...datalogit to turn the fans on sooner....

tgreisel,
yup, I know...chuck said he would discount my radiator and such...I did notice that a large smic would still "recover" from heat soak after a while...that's why I was thinking about going for a M2 or CWR....but if people demonstrate a huge improvement with cooling and intake temps with the V mount...they I don't mind spending the cash

 

7racer: In that case, hold off in making any decision. I just emailed Chuck about turning my car into a rolling laboratory to document anything and everything that may be of interest to anyone evaluating the merits of the v-mount. Tom