sickboy2345

went to a specialist and thats what i've been told, i have asked about installing FMIC(please dont say "go v-mount" as this is 2 much for my budget) but he said its not good for twins - could someone explain why?

then i said ok so maybe i'll try going for SMIC, ill buy one of them cheap IC's (xs-power for example or anything in this price range), make some ducting and ill have some decent IC he went that instead of cooling they actually heat air ant thats no good - i think WTF?? is v-mount the only way? i am not going single turbo even in future and if i will ill worry about that later,i want to stay with twins, nearly everything else has been done all i need is PFC,Midpipe,IC and then good mapping - dont want nothing more.


suggestions?

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

your "specialist" is trying to rip you off.

while he is 50% correct, he is misleading you on FMIC and SMIC's.

either i/c setup will work just fine with the stock twins.

an SMIC is good because it doesn't block the radiator and is still able to cool the charge air. but it heats up after prolonged boosting which they can still do their job rather effectively.

an FMIC is good because they offer the best cooling because it is in direct path to incoming air. except the radiator will not cool much but its only a slight rise im temps.


the overall setup for you would really have to depend on cost.

including piping:
FMIC - between $800-1,500+ for a good efficient setup used or not.
SMIC - between $400-1000 depending on its size and if its used or not.

either way, you'll make a bit more power with either setups as the stock i/c is mostly called a heater/heatsink etc.

and since you want cost effectiveness, get a SMIC.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Are you going to track the car? If yes, go SMIC or V-mount. If no, FMIC is fine as long as you have a quality rad as well.

thewird

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Who did you speak with Lucas?

The only way I can see a FMIC being "bad" with the twins is if it has a high pressure drop, in which case ANY intercooler would be "bad" since it would require the twins to work much harder (e.g. outside of their efficiency range) to make decent boost...

sickboy2345

spoken to a man at hayward rotary and this is what he said...

basically i know how they work etc but maybe there is some kinda IC i need to avoid? (talking about them cheap ones)

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

There are plus and minus to each setup and that horse was beaten to death a long time ago. Check the FAQ thread and the Archives for old and still relevant threads on that debate.

The ebay SMIC isn't the best b/c there is no readily available duct and that is crucial for the SMIC to function properly. Otherwise the radiator will be heating the IC.

I had a Greddy FMIC and hated it. Car ran too hot and was always heat soaked and packaging was a serious PITA. Switching to a SMIC had boost come on 500 RPM sooner, air temps were slightly higher (not enough to affect performance with the small amount of mods I had) however coolant temps were much lower (very good). I was happier with the SMIC. I'm happier still with my Vmount.

IMO - Keep It Simple S...
A well constructed and well ducted SMIC will fit your needs well. Don't underestimate the duct. You can find plenty of good SMIC with ducts used here on the forum should you choose to go that route.

heidihi

now ur making me worry that my front mount will be bad for lag with my non seq twins..

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Do you think an FMIC or SMIC would help with reliability on my almost stock 7 (Im not interested in adding power, just strictly increasing reliability)? Please check the sig.

Sorry to derail btw

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

A SMIC with proper ducting would be an upgrade to the stock one. It's a little far fetched to call it a "reliability" mod, bordering more in the realm of a power increaser. I would suggest making sure your ECU is upgraded before you throw a bigger/more efficient IC on there, since the colder air temps can cause more boost. More boost w/o proper ECU can = pre-det.

Though, on the other hand... the stock IC is pretty much crap, and is pretty prone to heat soaking, so if you needed to (for a kitchen pass, per se) you may be able to get away with calling it reliability.

The primary reliability mods though are as follows:

Boost Gauge
DP
Radiator
AST
Vac/Coolant line replacements

Beyond that (somebody please add on if I've forgotten something) it's pretty much leaving the "stock" world, and going into mods that aren't really necessary unless you want to increase the car beyond it's factory capabilities.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Thanks fenda. I had someone else tell me that as well. Just wanted to make sure.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I was trying to explain this to you. On one hand an intercooler upgrade can be viewed as a reliability upgrade. This is because cooler air is denser and is less likely to cause detonation. However, with the upgraded intercooler you will be able to run higher boost so the small gain in reliability is voided. The stock intercooler can fail and split at the end tanks. Worst case you get a boost leak and replace it. The main reasons people upgrade the intercooler is to be able to run higher boost.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I would take Rotary Experiment Seven's advice over my own any day of the week. He's been in the game for awhile, and from what I have seen he's pretty much always spot on

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Haha thanks. If you are going to be running moderate boost then you might be better off with a stock mount intercooler. I actually installed one of the ebay ones in a customer's car last month and it came with a duct. Worked pretty well. If you want a front mount the Blitz is very nice if you can find it and fit it in your budget. Otherwise a greddy 2 row will work fine for your application. Name brand stock mounts like M2, Pettit, or any of the copies work well too.

pinkrx7

iTrader: (2)

Or you can go AI

sickboy2345

i was thinking of Petit coolcharge III but6 they r damn expensive, i have found something likie this for FMIC

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-RX7-FD3S...QQcmdZViewItem

or on of them cxracing ones for SMIC(big ones) and making some ducting for them or going for a good 2nd hand smic

but has anyone used those ebay ones before(i know some people have but with what effects?)

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

That looks like a copy of a Greddy kit. Wonder how it fits.

sickboy2345

there was one guy that emailed me couple of months ago saying hes got this IC -its a straight fit and apparently works really well (he said he has got 30-40 degrease on the motorway - i dont know if its good or not as i never had pfc and cant compare it to nothing)the thing is i dont know if he was saying it only coz he had one for sale or if he actually ment it..i have lost his email and cant ask him again..

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The new Koyo "N" pass radiator resolves the FMIC heating issue.

I have no cooling problems with my Blitz FMIC, Koyo "N" pass, and GT35R 16psi boost engine here in Houston during summer.

New solutions for old problems!

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

^It will definitely help but will probably cause further fitment problems with the Greddy FMIC. There is barely enough room to fit the regular width Koyo between the hot side bend in the pipe on the passenger side. That IC was such a pita...

matty

get a smic for twins. spend the money and do it right with a M2 medium or large.

juha kankoulen

What about the front-stock mount I/Cs? does anybody keeps making those?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

There can't be a front-stock mount setup...it's either in the stock location or it's infront of the crossbar...

Maybe you're thinking of a V-mount? You can find those all over.