WaLieN

I adjusted mine with a Fluke Multimeter that was accurate to 3 decimal places. I got the closed throttle readings to within +.06V, and the wot to within -.02V. My car idles much better, but the car still runs like crap when it's cold(normal, I guess). A good thing is that it doesn't hunt at 1.1k RPM's with the driving lights off anymore.

fstfwd

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys... I have another post out there regarding all my TPS/idle/boost issues... but I wanted to just add my two cents in.

I brought the car into the shop last month and had my Engine Wire Harness replaced... which was a complete disaster... and that immediately fixed all of my idle problems, and the TPS is spot on!

Not a cheap fix, and not necessarily what you might need to do... but take a look at your wires, some of mine were litterally being held together by ONE STRAND to the connector! Scary....

Good luck!

snapcaseacilec

iTrader: (3)

WELL still no start, TPS is on the money! and I know I have fuel, I know I have spark, and I know I have compression, I didn't do anything to blow a motor I took all percautions, anyway. still have a dead 7, about to give up. thanks for all the help though.

rotoboy661

im having a problem setting mine

i put one gnd lead to a good gnd, and the pos lead to the both wires

i really dont get accurate numbers, they fluctuate up and down

ok heres the trip the butterflies are closed right but when i stick the safety pin in there it reads like it was open (4.89-4.90)??

am i doin something wrong here???

please help

thanx
mike

tahmid

Damian: THANK YOU SO MUCH. Finally my 7 is running like its suppose to. Posts like this makes the forum a better place.
Best Regards
tahmid

damian

iTrader: (2)

glad to hear it helped tahmid :-)

c h I n e Z e~BoY

how long did this process take everyone?
i have to give this a try some time...

tahmid

Its not at all time consuming. Just follow Damian's instructions.The process was fun and i learnt a lot. Remember, if the voltage reading is fine when closed then 99% chances are the volt reading will be okay when open. Just check for the green wire. Coz the numbers for the black wire will be okay if the voltage reading for the green wire (closed) is alright. Just loosen the bolts and tap on the tps and check voltage readings. Its a little difficult to reach though.

Use a safety pin, and a good volt meter. I had the advantage of using my friends crypton so i could see the LIVE idle reading on the screen while tuning, that made things easier.

TwinTurbo_SE7EN

YES!!!!! finally my car idles worth a damn.

It took me about an hour and a half including time to run and get a volt meter. after I finished, I started her up and had a low idle...adjusted the air screw and what do ya know...a nice smooth idle. I took her out for a test run and am now able to hold a steady speed in all gears without ignition bucking and ****.

I dont know why I didnt get around to this sooner, I have read it a few times.

BigAl65

Had to chime in here.........it is amazing how a sensor the size of a silver dollar can create so much havoc on the entire car, but it can! I have an automatic and installed a new TPS. It was out of adjustment which caused the wrong signals to the Transmission ECU.....result; it idled ok but the engine would rev to over 3500 rpm before it would shift to second with a head snatching, tire barking slam . (these must be some tough trannys ) Then it would have to do the same thing before shifting into 3rd (at about 80mph) and never would hit overdrive.
Anyway, after reading this (and other TPS threads) I took the time to remove the throttlebody and make sure the TPS wasnt in a bind and was moving properly, then reinstalled everything and set my voltage on .87 fully closed and the open throttle voltage was in the range noted here.
I started her up and low and behold.....all is right with the world and I am a much happier man......runs and shifts great, idles great and I am at peace with my FD (however temporary that may be)......
Film at eleven......
Allen

gcthree

Just stumbled across this thread, and going back to Damian's 1st post, I have just finished the exact same work on my car (viton hose job, eliminate AWS-including wax rod and cam, double throttle, EGR valve, and throttle body coolant) and the car runs like crap, too. Extremely rich, too. I've checked my TPS settings, and they were a touch high, and lowered them using the sensor readout on the PFC. It's still running rich, and like crap. I didn't turn back the air adjustment screws, though, when I checked my values.

Looking at the procedure in the FSM for TPS adjustment, the last 2 steps call for disconnecting the battery, and stepping on the brake pedal to cancel the 'memory of malfunctions'. Should we be doing this step? I have a PFC on my car.

broken93

The PFC does not store diagnostic codes like the factory ECU does. I would check your adjustment screws. Is the AWS solenoid disconnected, and is the ISC solenoid still connected?Did you seal the T/B to the IM after you removed it? A leak there could certainly cause your issue. RTV works great.

gcthree

Thanks for the info on the PFC.

Other than the metal gasket between UIM and TB, I did no further sealing. I'm ordering a new gasket, and will lay on some sealant.

AWS solenoid is disconnected along with all hoses for that system. Block-off plates on UIM where hose and actuator were formerly located. I'm going to go back and place some sealant on those gaskets, too, now that you mention it.

Is the ISC the same as the BAC? If you are referring to the valve on the back of the UIM- I have not removed that, and it is still connected to the harness.


ISC solenoid?

broken93

I assume you have already checked your MAP sensor? Did you perhaps accidentally replace the MAP sensor gas filter with a check valve?

The other obvious one - check your plugs/wires, and get a timing light and check for ignition pulse on each lead. I had a big problem with bad leading wires and fouled plugs causing crappy idle/stalling/flooding.

ISC solenoid is the valve on the back of the UIM with the white connector. Supposedly it's ISC = Idle Speed Control but it is also referred to as an IACV = Idle Air Control Valve, etc. These can stick open or closed intermittently and cause fast/slow idle (I currently have this problem). The car will run and idle without it but idle is very sensitive to air and engine temperature and idle without the ISC requires a lot of messing with the screws to get right.

If you are going to seal the T/B to the UIM with RTV, don't use the gasket. Remove the gasket and run a thin unbroken bead of silicone around the sealing surface on the T/B. Reinstall and wait 24 hours for it to cure.

I would carefully check for other vacuum leaks, since everything you touched during the hose job has a potential to leak. If you have a PFC, you should check the sensor check screen and verify that none of the sensors are highlighted that shouldn't be (unless you are running premix, etc, none should be highlighted). Carefully check the TPS voltages as displayed by the PFC against the FSM reference.

You may also want to temporarily disable O2 F/B control and Idle IG Cntrl in the PFC while you troubleshoot. The former will ignore the O2 sensor, and the latter will fix the idle ignition timing to the ignition map value so that it doesn't hunt timing trying to stabilize the idle. With the PFC, the fixed ignition timing will often have the PFC stabilize the modulation of the ISC valve, which makes troubleshooting easier. Get the idle stable with fixed ignition and o2 F/B on a warm engine, and then reenable them and continue from there.

gcthree

Thanks for taking the time to respond at length- I really appreciate your effort and checklist!

When you do projects like this, no matter how careful you are, you always overlook something. That 'something' for me was the MAP sensor- I neglected to put it back on the UIM when I moved it to access that one last hose on the back of the manifold. When I saw it, I thought I had it, but it's the same....

I did replace the gas filter in the correct orientation (arrow to manifold), so I'm good there.

I was thinking about ignition, too. I have a new set of wires on the car, and when I was installing them (put them in at the same time I was doing all the other work), I had my right arm down inside the engine compartment trying to ensure that the wire was firmly on the plug. Now when I pushed hard, I could have sworn that I got a big shock up my right arm(I had the battery out of the car at this point), and it took my breath away! Now, unless the coil packs have a capacitor in them, there's no way it could deliver a charge- right? So, I just figured that I pulled a muscle, and thus the shock. Weird. Anyway, I am going to try the timing light on each plug wire and see what I get. Is there any way to check a coil on the bench?

Checked the sensor screen, and there were no highlights there. So, I'll assume all sensors are functioning and reporting in.

I just ordered all new gaskets/o-rings, etc. from Malloy- I'll give that a try before doing the RTV route.

Thanks again!

rizzle

Doing it tomorrow!!! I have the SAME exactly symptoms!! Hope it works!!

gcthree

I just ordered a new set of Magnecor wires from Jason to eliminate the bad plug wires issue while I've got it all opened-up.
I also took the vac hose diagram file to Kinko's and blew it up to 24" X 36" ($39.00) so that I can make absolutly certain that all hoses are in the right place- I'm sure they are, but just want to be sure.
Keep me posted.

gcthree

All right, I'm running out of patience here. The damn car is running so rich.

I installed the Magnecor wires today, and checked the MAP sensor per the FSM (didn't start the car up, though, I used a mityvac to pressurized and apply vacuum to the MAP- it checked out). Fired the car up and checked each plug lead with my timing light, and they're all firing. By the time I shut it down, the garage was full of smoke (at idle).

I then replaced the PFC with the stock ECU, and fired it up again to see if I could get an idle without all the fuel. No change, so all's fine with the map in the PFC.

Went back and checked the TPS settings by inserting probes into the harness, and the values were fine and checked with those shown on the PFC. Good there, too.

I've gone back and checked all the vacuum hoses I had installed for leaks and to ensure that they were routed correctly. All good.

I've replaced the ignition coils just to be sure, and I've cleaned the plugs a number of times as they're sooted-up after each time the car runs.

So, where do I go from here? Fuel pressure regulator? An injector(s) stuck open? I removed and blocked the EGR valve- does this have any bearing on it? By the way, mine is a lower mile car with 35,000 miles on it, and it ran fine (except for a boost issue) before I did the vacuum hose job/bypass of AWS, Double Throttle, EGR . What have I done????

gcthree

^^^^

broken93

Are you getting white vapor smoke, as in lots and lots of unburned fuel? You very likely have an injector stuck open or an injector o-ring misseated, pinched, or broken. I had this problem and wrestled with it for weeks before I finally figured out that one of my secondary o-rings was cracked and blowing lots of fuel into my engine.

Try this: remove your ignitor module, so that the chance of accidental spark (fire) is decreased. Jumper the fuel pump on on the diag connector (jumper F/P to GND). Remove the T/B elbow, and have a friend open the throttle completely and turn the key to ON. The fuel pump will come on. Listen closely for a spraying sound coming from the UIM. If you hear a spray, you are blowing fuel into the intake. If all is well, you should only hear the hum of the fuel pump running.

And of course, any time you are working on the fuel system, be sure to have very good ventilation, a fire extinguisher nearby, and leave cellphones, fans, electric motors, and other non-intrinsically-safe stuff elsewhere.

gcthree

First of all, thanks for your help- I really appreciate it!

The smoke is sooty (black, I guess)- it's clearly rich. Now, as one who grew up with carbs and distributors, it would be an easy one to diagnose- just go throught the logical procedures. But, once you bring electronics into the equation.....well....

I haven't touched the injectors- they were not removed, so the o-rings haven't been moved/displaced, but the stuck injector is reasonable. One of the steps I tried was to pull fuel out across the map, and there was no change. So, this begins to support a fuel supply issue that I cannot control. Along those lines, do you know the symptoms of a bad FPR?...however, if it was bad, when you pulled fuel from the map, there should have been some reaction. Right?

I'm going to give your suggestion a try- probably take the UIM off while I'm at it (I'm getting really good at this, plus without the AWS and TB coolant line, it goes pretty quickly), that way I'll be able to get a good look down the LIM and see if there's fuel pouring in. After that, I'm running out of ideas, as everything else has checked.

Thanks, again!

damian

iTrader: (2)

just to be clear, you have already done the stuff I outlined in the begining of this thread, so the TPS, idle screws, et, et are all calibrated/set/adjusted?

gcthree

Yep. Checked the settings on the TPS with the PFC, and then just to be sure, I checked them with a voltmeter when I buttoned it back up this time around. Also, backed all the screws all the way out, and then brought them back in until they just made contact with the respective arms.

Further thoughts:
if there was a vacuum leak, it would account for the lopey, hunting idle... but not the excessive fuel. A vacuum leak, with the additional air into the intake stream would make the engine run lean.

I'm inclined to also put the EGR and double throttle solenoids back in and plug them into the harness. I know it should have no bearing on the PFC, but it ran fine before I started this.

Is there a way to shut off each injector via the PFC?, thus helping to identify a possible stuck injector?

broken93

If the vac line to your FPR was broken/cracked, you would have a vac leak, as well as slightly higher fuel pressure. In my experience, failure of a regulator (diaphragm, vacuum source, etc) generally has very little effect at idle, however.

Unplug the connector

wstrohm

Just an RX-7 newbie here, but is it possible to identify the injector pulse outputs from your PFC and see if the voltages all look the same? If one or more of the injectors is being held open or at a high duty cycle due to a faulty sensor (have no idea what... maybe coolant temperature), that could cause rich running.

---- Bill