fire in my engine bay
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ah a fellow albertan.
as far as i know it did not get the fuel line recall as it is a JDM RX7. the fuel line near the fire was very beat up so i will be replacing both of them, aswell as the fpd cause i might aswell while i am there.
i have a few more questions, i would like to rewrap the aburned area of the harness, so what would i use to rewrap it with that can withstand enough heat?
also i plan on doing a vaccum like replacement, simplify my sequential, removing dt and air pump, stuff like that. aswell as change the plug wires. is there anything else i should be doing while i havhe it apart
as far as i know it did not get the fuel line recall as it is a JDM RX7. the fuel line near the fire was very beat up so i will be replacing both of them, aswell as the fpd cause i might aswell while i am there.
i have a few more questions, i would like to rewrap the aburned area of the harness, so what would i use to rewrap it with that can withstand enough heat?
also i plan on doing a vaccum like replacement, simplify my sequential, removing dt and air pump, stuff like that. aswell as change the plug wires. is there anything else i should be doing while i havhe it apart
#5
talking head
aside from the dampener, reg , injector O ring and hose fails
there is another fatal fault in some modified rx7's
and this is shop work
and today, its 42 degrees, and i have to suss a serious bug with a friends car
guess what happens out this little pipe when it is hot???
right next to the frigging coils !!
( i have also been showered by the similar pipe on the 1st gen rx7 , usually with weber or 13bt )
this is the petrol tank vapour pipe that normal goes to the charcoal can
and then through the " pollution gear " normally tossed during the microbug/ FMC install / nest deletion and into the motor
now, a fire bomb waiting to happen, particularly when 42 degrees celsius and FUEL CONDENSATE JETS DIRECTLY AT THE COILS
i have mentioned this before
today, an inadvertent fire when completing the L coil test
( no damage, extinguished in an instant )
how many of you with a loose lead and a similar mod??????
this needs a catch can, one way valve, hose and a small rocker cover filter and thought
to RE-ESTABLISH the fuel vapour and crankcase scavenge in reverse direction to the air cleaner
factory stuck that **** there for a good reason
make sure you haven't set yourself up for a nasty freeway problem
( or been set up )
temporarily , this is fixed by a long hose to the road
( get a frigging vac set up catch can all you cheapskates )
there is another fatal fault in some modified rx7's
Originally Posted by bumpstart
and this is shop work
and today, its 42 degrees, and i have to suss a serious bug with a friends car
guess what happens out this little pipe when it is hot???
right next to the frigging coils !!
( i have also been showered by the similar pipe on the 1st gen rx7 , usually with weber or 13bt )
this is the petrol tank vapour pipe that normal goes to the charcoal can
and then through the " pollution gear " normally tossed during the microbug/ FMC install / nest deletion and into the motor
now, a fire bomb waiting to happen, particularly when 42 degrees celsius and FUEL CONDENSATE JETS DIRECTLY AT THE COILS
i have mentioned this before
today, an inadvertent fire when completing the L coil test
( no damage, extinguished in an instant )
how many of you with a loose lead and a similar mod??????
this needs a catch can, one way valve, hose and a small rocker cover filter and thought
to RE-ESTABLISH the fuel vapour and crankcase scavenge in reverse direction to the air cleaner
factory stuck that **** there for a good reason
make sure you haven't set yourself up for a nasty freeway problem
( or been set up )
temporarily , this is fixed by a long hose to the road
( get a frigging vac set up catch can all you cheapskates )
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While your in there Check the FPD (Replace it) go to rx7specialties Adam should have one, and if he dosent should be able to get you one. i would replace the Spark plug wires, and new spark plugs, and IF you have the money a new Leading Coil. The JDM's Coil's always seem to go. And its a B**** to take the plenum off again to just replace the coil.
As for wrapping that up i would believe electrical tape should work fine.
And for the Fuel lines, get some good metal screw clamps from part source to make sure those are nice and tight.
im in Calgary as well by the way.
-Mark
#7
talking head
yes the car pictured is actually a 2nd gen
though its system is very similar, with same risks when modified
the post is myself quoted elsewhere, obviously for an FC
i have even been caught short on first gen set ups with weber car or turbo conversions
- as the trap is often similarly deleted
( first gen will aim it instead at the exhaust )
the problem arises in those places where people can get away with modifying the tank evaporation controls
( for whatever reasons )
in FC and FD
( which have a more complex switched purge system than the sa22/FB )
the problem arises when intercooler fab and or ECU change leads to deletion or modification of the nest or can
not many can work out the nest and how to re-establish the OEM system flows
and just delete it, or incorrectly hook up an aftermarket oil blowby catch can
- sometimes leading to the often unanticipated fire if unlucky
ie
- switching vacuum in front of TB under some conditions draws open purge control valve
this opens to allow vacuum motor side of TB to suck vapour flow from the sump space
this in turn sucks vapour from the tee which is supplied from charcoal trap
AND from the air cleaner if the trap and its fumes prove to be less than positive pressure
the factory is hoping like hell the bottom vent on the charcoal trap is never blocked
else more than just fuel vapour will cycle via the sump space
( the bottom trap outlet is often actually tucked into the chassis rail !!! )
this bottom outlet on occasion may need to drip water / fuel condensations
in the chassis rail its adding to a bit of rust protection ( hopefully )
goodluck rebuilding that with no purge valve or correct switching sources
you need the purge valve
and it needs its correct source front of TB so not to allow this purge air to become part of the idle speed air
( if taken from wrong source it will open at idle and not part throttle with vacuum )
you also need the check valve, else boost may well work its way backwards to recycle to air cleaner
here is the other parts of the post for you, its sort of relevant
you can get the idea from this FC related info
and also a clue of how to hook up a simpler alternative system easily
( legalities are for australia , but the principal will still stop fires and smells and smog )
a method using a standard charcoal trap that should pass cursory inspection
BUT IS REVERSED FLOW DIRECTION AND FULL TIME SCAVENGE
now it should not take ANY brains to work out how to mod this so as to work with aftermarket multi feed catch cans
the principle is the same
the idea is that the one ways protect against fumes getting to air via the vac break
( rocker cover filter )
AND OR petrol vapour condensing in the sump space ( unlike factory in some scenarios )
people have to stop thinking of aftermarket catch cans as open vented crud collectors that just fill up
they are intended to be used a MIST SEPERATORS in modern cars to be legal
( and that one of the purposes of the original charcoal trap )
the mist is volatile but insignificant enough ( on a healthy engine ) to not effect octane horribly
( unlike carried over liquids )
and is passed on to the engine to be consumed
legally, it needs to be switched or use a charcoal trap to collect vapours when engine is not running
( another reason the factory uses a purge valve )
that technicality is passed by adding another trap in the line to the air cleaner
though its system is very similar, with same risks when modified
the post is myself quoted elsewhere, obviously for an FC
i have even been caught short on first gen set ups with weber car or turbo conversions
- as the trap is often similarly deleted
( first gen will aim it instead at the exhaust )
the problem arises in those places where people can get away with modifying the tank evaporation controls
( for whatever reasons )
in FC and FD
( which have a more complex switched purge system than the sa22/FB )
the problem arises when intercooler fab and or ECU change leads to deletion or modification of the nest or can
not many can work out the nest and how to re-establish the OEM system flows
and just delete it, or incorrectly hook up an aftermarket oil blowby catch can
- sometimes leading to the often unanticipated fire if unlucky
Originally Posted by bumpstart
Originally Posted by bumpstart
ie
- switching vacuum in front of TB under some conditions draws open purge control valve
this opens to allow vacuum motor side of TB to suck vapour flow from the sump space
this in turn sucks vapour from the tee which is supplied from charcoal trap
AND from the air cleaner if the trap and its fumes prove to be less than positive pressure
the factory is hoping like hell the bottom vent on the charcoal trap is never blocked
else more than just fuel vapour will cycle via the sump space
( the bottom trap outlet is often actually tucked into the chassis rail !!! )
this bottom outlet on occasion may need to drip water / fuel condensations
in the chassis rail its adding to a bit of rust protection ( hopefully )
goodluck rebuilding that with no purge valve or correct switching sources
you need the purge valve
and it needs its correct source front of TB so not to allow this purge air to become part of the idle speed air
( if taken from wrong source it will open at idle and not part throttle with vacuum )
you also need the check valve, else boost may well work its way backwards to recycle to air cleaner
here is the other parts of the post for you, its sort of relevant
you can get the idea from this FC related info
and also a clue of how to hook up a simpler alternative system easily
( legalities are for australia , but the principal will still stop fires and smells and smog )
this needs a catch can, one way valve, hose and a small rocker cover filter and thought
to RE-ESTABLISH the fuel vapour and crankcase scavenge in reverse direction to the air cleaner
to RE-ESTABLISH the fuel vapour and crankcase scavenge in reverse direction to the air cleaner
BUT IS REVERSED FLOW DIRECTION AND FULL TIME SCAVENGE
now it should not take ANY brains to work out how to mod this so as to work with aftermarket multi feed catch cans
the principle is the same
the idea is that the one ways protect against fumes getting to air via the vac break
( rocker cover filter )
AND OR petrol vapour condensing in the sump space ( unlike factory in some scenarios )
people have to stop thinking of aftermarket catch cans as open vented crud collectors that just fill up
they are intended to be used a MIST SEPERATORS in modern cars to be legal
( and that one of the purposes of the original charcoal trap )
the mist is volatile but insignificant enough ( on a healthy engine ) to not effect octane horribly
( unlike carried over liquids )
and is passed on to the engine to be consumed
legally, it needs to be switched or use a charcoal trap to collect vapours when engine is not running
( another reason the factory uses a purge valve )
that technicality is passed by adding another trap in the line to the air cleaner
Last edited by bumpstart; 01-20-09 at 01:27 AM. Reason: aussie footnote
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