busy13b

iTrader: (5)

1) no appreciable boost from the first turbo [can't even really hear it spooling] then after transition through 4500RPM, the second kicks in just fine. [in any gear]

-- I already made sure the turbo precontrol and wastegate control solenoids were plugged in correctly.

-- In all fairness, I got everything put back together from the hose job and haven't had time to tear back into her, but any ideas on what to check first would be great...

Would having a check valve facing the wrong way cause that??




2) coolant light on and beeeeeeep

I know it's because the coolant level ground wire on the driver's side was left unplugged - I'm probably going blind but I absolutely can't find the connector it goes to... Should be near the coil pack, right

evot23

iTrader: (17)

I thought the coolant level ground wire was on the coolant filler neck and the temp sensor was by the coil pack (above and to the rear of the oil sending unit).

???

Is it possible that one or both of your solenoids are bad? My friend put all his stuff back on correctly but found his precontrol was bad. Replaced it and voila! all good.

Good luck, hope you get it fixed.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Do you have '93? If so, did you replace the lines which contain the boost pills (and not put the pills back in the lines)?

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=183408

busy13b

iTrader: (5)

I didn't replace the lines that contain the pills, as I was waiting to do so until I add my EVC III.

I did, however, verify that both pills were in the existing lines.

One point of interest regarding the boost - before I did the vaccum line replacement, I was getting full boost on the primary turbo, and only about 4-5psi on the 2nd turbo.

Two things I found - c-clip missing from the pre-control actuator rod and the turbo control actuator had the outer nipple broken off w/ no vac line hooked up.

I fixed both of those probs, and now no boost on the first turbo, then after the 4500rpm --> WHAM, a full 13-14psi.

No other solenoids were broken or cracked - I suppose it's possible I swapped the connectors for two solenoids....

I'm wondering if i mistakenly used the wrong check valve on the same line that goes to the vac. chamber, or possibly reversed the direction of it......

Shinobi-X

Where did you get the C-clip replacement?

busy13b

iTrader: (5)

local mazda dealership - a whopping $.79

pn: 9957-50-400

Shinobi-X

My eyes immediately saw the number, and I was like WTF! ....then I saw the decimal. Thanks a lot.

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

you cannot get no boost on the primary turbo. something is not right with the wastegate and/or actuator. you checked all three c clips? you could get no power if the hoses caused the bov to stay open, but you would hear that. now when you say vacuum job, did you actually remove the turbos completely or just the ypipe? i think your best bet is to pay a good shop 300$ to take a look and redo the nest it saves stress and headaches.

JONSKI

Abou the coolant buzzer. There is a coolant level sensor at the front base of the filler neck. Mine broke off and I repaired it with some wire strippers, automotive grade wire, and some electrical tape.

busy13b

iTrader: (5)

Jonski:

I made sure the ground that runs from the bottom of the filler neck was attached and the wire wasn't broken.


This post mentions the other ground wire runnig near the coil pack - well, mine is dangling and I'm still looking for its mate....


As far as the boost problems - I have verified that all c-clips are still in place. Tonight I'll take off the UIM/coil pack again and start checking connections.

One point of interest: when doing the hose job, I originally removed the ACV and the double throttle solenoid..

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

You probably have a kinked hose under the intake manifold.

alwan16

a couple things come to mind....

1. vaccuum hoses swapped...sometimes hard to see

2. coupler leak...probably not though

3. vaccum hose kinked like what the person said above

the low coolant sensor wiring goes through two connectors. the obvious one is the one in front of the engine directly connected to the sensor held up by a water filler neck bolt. the second is connected to the iginition harness on the driver's side. this one is easy to miss or sway with the a/c connector because they are small and it's dark down there. get a flashlight and follow the iginition wiring harness with you hand until you find something not connected. should be a simple fix.

busy13b

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for this helpfull info - I don't think too many are aware of this fact..

Just so I and others can get a bit more info:

I recall four connectors in the ignition harness - one connector per coil pack, then one ground that slips over one of the coil mounting studs.

Could you be more specific where that other ground wire connects?

alwan16

here is a quote from my web page...notes on removing the harness:

Driver Side Iginition Harness - this harness is hooked up to multiple places. you will need to look at the harness from both below and above the car to remove all points of attachment. i also needed to remove the UIM to undo the 3 ignition harnesses and single GND (sub-items 8 & 9 below).
alternator connections - one terminal held on by a bolt and one connector
two tabs - one on the top and one on the bottom holding the harness to brackets connected to the block. just use a pair of pliers to squeeze these tabs and pull the harness away
black connector - not sure where this goes to since there's no more description in my nots (bad notes!)
small black connector - goes to the oil pressure sensore
white connector - goes to the oil pan for the "low oil" warning
small ground terminal - this connects to the engine block with a 10mm bolt
harness bracket - this is held on by the top starter bolt as mentioned before in the starter section (item # 17 from yesterday)
3 ignition harnesses - these connect to the coils underneath the UIM. from left to right they are white/black/blue
GND terminal - one 8mm nut holds this ground to the coils. remember to put the nut back to not lose it.


i think the black connector is the one in question. i had the same problem. i remember i accidentally hooked up the a/c white connector into this black one. i think female side of this comes out about 1-2 inches off the iginition harness right near some tape at about the height of the top spark plugs. the male side of the connection comes off the main harness and is probably hiding somewhere hard to see. get a flashlight and keep searching using your hands to feel it.

busy13b

iTrader: (5)

Yep - this is the connector in question... if I can ever tear myself away from work for a few hrs, I'll do some further investigating from below the car - funny thing is, as I was bolting everything together, I was underneath the driver's side in order to bleed the clutch.... I'm amazed that one can rebuild an entire frickin' 2nd gen, yet one connection poses such a problem.....


alwan16 - I have that exact same north face shirt, and even more eerie is the fact that mine has also made it's way to the "car repair fashion" pile...

Thanks for all the info.