finished batt. relocation
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finished batt. relocation
I ran the cable through the extra grommet on the driver's side of the firewall. I have much larger versions of those pictures, so if you want them pm me. All materials were sourced local to me, the battery I ordered for $95 (that price includes shipping). Probably the biggest chunk of knowledge I read to do this was moconners write up, big thanks to what he has already done.
http://smi-web.stanford.edu/people/moconnor/battery/
http://smi-web.stanford.edu/people/moconnor/battery/
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advanced auto store, for $5. I'm thinking that the two parts that stick up might be too long to fit the bins over so I will nip them short with some bolt cutters tomorrow and then take some more pics with the bins on
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Originally Posted by JebenKurac
I ran the cable through the extra grommet on the driver's side of the firewall. I have much larger versions of those pictures, so if you want them pm me. All materials were sourced local to me, the battery I ordered for $95 (that price includes shipping). Probably the biggest chunk of knowledge I read to do this was moconners write up, big thanks to what he has already done.
http://smi-web.stanford.edu/people/moconnor/battery/
http://smi-web.stanford.edu/people/moconnor/battery/
However, I am not sure why you need to run the cable through the firewall? I had done this relocation on both of my FDs and simply ran the positive cable from the battery in the storage bin to the starter. This way all you need to do is put a grommet into the tranmission tunnel, run the cable straight to the starter. Leave the existing cable on the starter Positive stud as well to carry the currents up to the fuses in the engine bay. Your starter draws the most current in the car, by far, so no use to run a cable all the way back in the engine compartment, just to have that current come right back to the starter. Saves weigh (of the cable) and complexity.
Albert
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