Fighters Garage Air Temp Sensor
01-14-11, 03:19 AM
#1
Fighters Garage Air Temp Sensor
http://www.fighters-garage.com/rx7.html
Has anyone used this before? Fast reacting AIT that doesn't require relocation? Sounds good on paper...
Has anyone used this before? Fast reacting AIT that doesn't require relocation? Sounds good on paper...
01-14-11, 05:05 AM
#2
Yes, if you search I think you'll find several of us are running them, though not necessarily purchased from Fighter's Garage. I've had one for a couple of years now. They do improve reaction time.
None of them require relocation, but doing so avoids some of the heat-soak issues. I had a stock sensor go bad, so IMO it made sense to relocate at the same time.
In any event, IIRC that price isn't far from what MAZDA will charge for a stock IAT.
None of them require relocation, but doing so avoids some of the heat-soak issues. I had a stock sensor go bad, so IMO it made sense to relocate at the same time.
In any event, IIRC that price isn't far from what MAZDA will charge for a stock IAT.
01-14-11, 07:10 AM
#4
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I have read arguments for both sides, some folks talking about not heat soaking the sensor, and others saying it's important to take the heat of the IM into account. I wouldn't think air spends much time in the UIM, and even if it does metal to air doesn't transfer heat nearly as fast as two solid objects coming in contact, but what do I know?
01-14-11, 08:04 AM
#5
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I have my water injection plumbed to the greddy elbow (have had it that way since early 2006) and have had the dudeman AIT in the oem location for over a year now. Works well, very responsive. Car has been tuned and running perfectly since March.
Brent/dudeman kind of disappeared from the forum, but I recall him saying that the stock location was perfectly fine.
btw, the dudeman version (i believe it can be found at www.wannaspeed.com) has the option of a jumper harness for an easy install, and the clip is much more friendly..... nothing against Fighters, but their clip blows. Huge pain in the *** to get it off.
Brent/dudeman kind of disappeared from the forum, but I recall him saying that the stock location was perfectly fine.
btw, the dudeman version (i believe it can be found at www.wannaspeed.com) has the option of a jumper harness for an easy install, and the clip is much more friendly..... nothing against Fighters, but their clip blows. Huge pain in the *** to get it off.
01-14-11, 10:17 AM
#6
Goodfella....
I can't remember for sure and can't find it in that section's stickys. Does Coleman recommend the injector before or after the IAT...or does it matter?
For some reason I thought that in the event of AI failure it was safer to have AI after the IAT. ???
And that's a question, not trying to argue with your placement. Getting off my lazy *** and getting this AI system I've had on my bench for several months is on my winter list. So I'd like to know for sure.
I can't remember for sure and can't find it in that section's stickys. Does Coleman recommend the injector before or after the IAT...or does it matter?
For some reason I thought that in the event of AI failure it was safer to have AI after the IAT. ???
And that's a question, not trying to argue with your placement. Getting off my lazy *** and getting this AI system I've had on my bench for several months is on my winter list. So I'd like to know for sure.
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01-14-11, 10:53 AM
#8
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Thanks goodfella. My plan was to use the elbow for water injection, and leave the sensor in the stock location. I got a haltech IAT at a decent discount when I ordered my ECU. I hope it performs as well or better than the IATs Fighters or Dudeman sells.
01-14-11, 11:09 AM
#9
there you go. Also order the pig tail for an easier installation.
-AzEKnightz
01-14-11, 12:00 PM
#10
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http://www.wannaspeed.com/index.php?...roducts_id=180
there you go. Also order the pig tail for an easier installation.
-AzEKnightz
there you go. Also order the pig tail for an easier installation.
-AzEKnightz
awesome
01-14-11, 12:25 PM
#11
Goodfella....
I can't remember for sure and can't find it in that section's stickys. Does Coleman recommend the injector before or after the IAT...or does it matter?
For some reason I thought that in the event of AI failure it was safer to have AI after the IAT. ???
And that's a question, not trying to argue with your placement. Getting off my lazy *** and getting this AI system I've had on my bench for several months is on my winter list. So I'd like to know for sure.
I can't remember for sure and can't find it in that section's stickys. Does Coleman recommend the injector before or after the IAT...or does it matter?
For some reason I thought that in the event of AI failure it was safer to have AI after the IAT. ???
And that's a question, not trying to argue with your placement. Getting off my lazy *** and getting this AI system I've had on my bench for several months is on my winter list. So I'd like to know for sure.
01-14-11, 11:24 PM
#12
Hey guys, I'm still around! I just had a baby boy (4 mos old) so have been preoccupied. I recommend the stock location. I relocated my stock sensor, but the fast iat works best for me in the stock location. Pigtail version requires splicing, pnp version plugs right in. No cutting or wiring required.
01-16-11, 11:43 AM
#14
It's always a good idea to make sure your tune is safe when changing anything regardless of how small.
I used the fsm method to test the resistance range of the sensors between 2 temperature extremes. The difference between stock and aftermarket was something like 0.02 ohms. Very tiny difference. If anything the map should be safer due to the increase accuracy and speed of the sensor. Under heat soak conditions the stock sensor is reading very off.
If you relocated your stock sensor (or the new one)then you will need to adjust the air temp corrections tables. I like to do this anyways, and it's best to have a baseline tune in the summer (or winter) and then tune only the corrections table when the seasons change. This insures the tune is consistent regardless of the time of year or weather conditions. It's pretty well impossible to accurately tune this table with the stock sensor, but pretty simple with the fast sensor.
On the other hand I've got probably a 100 guys running the sensor with no other changes that notice an overall better running engine. In any case the sensor is worlds better then the stock sensor.
I used the fsm method to test the resistance range of the sensors between 2 temperature extremes. The difference between stock and aftermarket was something like 0.02 ohms. Very tiny difference. If anything the map should be safer due to the increase accuracy and speed of the sensor. Under heat soak conditions the stock sensor is reading very off.
If you relocated your stock sensor (or the new one)then you will need to adjust the air temp corrections tables. I like to do this anyways, and it's best to have a baseline tune in the summer (or winter) and then tune only the corrections table when the seasons change. This insures the tune is consistent regardless of the time of year or weather conditions. It's pretty well impossible to accurately tune this table with the stock sensor, but pretty simple with the fast sensor.
On the other hand I've got probably a 100 guys running the sensor with no other changes that notice an overall better running engine. In any case the sensor is worlds better then the stock sensor.
02-09-11, 01:40 AM
#16
Has anyone received a AIT sensor from fighters garage recently? I ordered one from their site 8 days ago and haven't heard from them or got a reply to my email. I just read in another topic they are out of business now. Please let me know. thanks.
02-09-11, 08:45 AM
#18
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I got one from dudeman awhile back and kept it in the stock location without any problems at all and I daily drive my car. Its so much more responsive than the oem one.
02-10-11, 04:56 PM
#24
I'm hardly a pro but here is my understanding...and it makes sense.
First think about this...after you've driven your car for a bit and come back...what are your engine temps? Fairly high still I'd guess. God forbid you drive somewhere, turn off car, come back in 5-10 mins and start again. Chances are at least for a few moments, your temp reading will be silly high. This is because your engine bay heat soaked it.
Now IIRC (Pro's feel free to correct me) when you start your car, the heat soaked sensor can cause your ECU to provide too little gas causing a lean condition...even if this is for a few seconds, it undoubtedly can't be good for our cars.
The FRIAT tends to not heat soak as much...or at all...thereby giving the ECU a more accurate reading when starting the car and less chance of an unfortunate circumstance taking place.
This is my understanding. Hopefully a Pro will chime in and make corrections where needed.
First think about this...after you've driven your car for a bit and come back...what are your engine temps? Fairly high still I'd guess. God forbid you drive somewhere, turn off car, come back in 5-10 mins and start again. Chances are at least for a few moments, your temp reading will be silly high. This is because your engine bay heat soaked it.
Now IIRC (Pro's feel free to correct me) when you start your car, the heat soaked sensor can cause your ECU to provide too little gas causing a lean condition...even if this is for a few seconds, it undoubtedly can't be good for our cars.
The FRIAT tends to not heat soak as much...or at all...thereby giving the ECU a more accurate reading when starting the car and less chance of an unfortunate circumstance taking place.
This is my understanding. Hopefully a Pro will chime in and make corrections where needed.
