Few questions about tie rods
Few questions about tie rods
Hi guys,
I went to the alignment shop last week and they told me that the inner tie rod on the driver's side is worned. Is it prefered to replace both side at the same time? Should I also replace the outer tie rods on both side? Do you replace with OEM or jobber parts? I do a few track days a year if that matters.
Replacing everything with OEM is going to be expensive.
Thanks,
Alex
I went to the alignment shop last week and they told me that the inner tie rod on the driver's side is worned. Is it prefered to replace both side at the same time? Should I also replace the outer tie rods on both side? Do you replace with OEM or jobber parts? I do a few track days a year if that matters.
Replacing everything with OEM is going to be expensive.
Thanks,
Alex
You only have to replace what's worn if it ain't broke don't fix it lol if you only need a inner then get that oem is best but "jobber" ie parts stores are ok too go with the more expensive option like moog etc
you have to disconnect outer to wind out the inner , which can get pretty stressful for the parts when using a puller
so suggest you get both , new
( or at least a new rubber boot for the outer, minimum , as the tie rod separator will have ruined it )
IMO both sides at the same time to get everything as sharp as it can be , and get the wheel alignment as you want too
though it is common that some vehicles wear heavily on one side for various reasons
, there is no point doing the labour twice , and the wheel align twice
so suggest you get both , new
( or at least a new rubber boot for the outer, minimum , as the tie rod separator will have ruined it )
IMO both sides at the same time to get everything as sharp as it can be , and get the wheel alignment as you want too
though it is common that some vehicles wear heavily on one side for various reasons
, there is no point doing the labour twice , and the wheel align twice
you have to disconnect outer to wind out the inner , which can get pretty stressful for the parts when using a puller
so suggest you get both , new
( or at least a new rubber boot for the outer, minimum , as the tie rod separator will have ruined it )
IMO both sides at the same time to get everything as sharp as it can be , and get the wheel alignment as you want too
though it is common that some vehicles wear heavily on one side for various reasons
, there is no point doing the labour twice , and the wheel align twice
so suggest you get both , new
( or at least a new rubber boot for the outer, minimum , as the tie rod separator will have ruined it )
IMO both sides at the same time to get everything as sharp as it can be , and get the wheel alignment as you want too
though it is common that some vehicles wear heavily on one side for various reasons
, there is no point doing the labour twice , and the wheel align twice
Quoted For Truth.
Worn suspension components should ALWAYS be replaced in pairs and in complete sets. Look at it this way: the same wear and tear that is evident on a 'defective' component took place on all the others, too. If you simply MUST only do small portions of the total repair due to cost considerations (which can be huge, admittedly), make sure you plan out your strategy to minimize damaging anything during the repair.
Not sure I understood what baja and bump are talking about...
You don't need to remove the outer tie rod from the upright in order to replace the inner. You just unthread the inner from the outer. No stress on either part in "unscrewing" them from each other.
Personally, I'd just fix what's worn - the inner tie rod. The one caveat is that if you don't know if the outer tie rods were ever replaced, I'd probably do it while you are there - if you have the budget. If you don't then delay it.
I replaced both my outers a few years ago. Got them from Ray @ Malloy. I don't remember them being particularly expensive. Never replaced an inner though...
You don't need to remove the outer tie rod from the upright in order to replace the inner. You just unthread the inner from the outer. No stress on either part in "unscrewing" them from each other.
Personally, I'd just fix what's worn - the inner tie rod. The one caveat is that if you don't know if the outer tie rods were ever replaced, I'd probably do it while you are there - if you have the budget. If you don't then delay it.
I replaced both my outers a few years ago. Got them from Ray @ Malloy. I don't remember them being particularly expensive. Never replaced an inner though...
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
there is nothing wrong with replacing only the one bad part, if it is the only bad part. with a track car you want to be picky.
Mazda OE is generally higher quality than the aftermarket
Mazda OE is generally higher quality than the aftermarket
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Im with Gracer7. Im not sure why you would replace good parts. I work at an alignment shop and it is easier to take the outer down out of the spindle, but if you just hammer on the eye that the tie rod goes through, it will pop out without ruining the boot.
I would go with quality parts however because the cheap ones will wear out quickly, so in time, its more cost efficient to get quality. Moog has a lifetime warranty on most of their parts, which is really nice. Just pull the old off (if it wears out), bring it to the parts place you got it from, and they will just give you a new one, no out of pocket cost
I would go with quality parts however because the cheap ones will wear out quickly, so in time, its more cost efficient to get quality. Moog has a lifetime warranty on most of their parts, which is really nice. Just pull the old off (if it wears out), bring it to the parts place you got it from, and they will just give you a new one, no out of pocket cost
Thanks everyone for your inputs.
I would rather change only the bad parts cause I'll also have to replace a front upper control arm which is not cheap.
As for the inner tie rod I think I'll go with an OEM cause Moog seems to sell only the later model. I think the 1993 has the fine thread on the rack side.
I would rather change only the bad parts cause I'll also have to replace a front upper control arm which is not cheap.
As for the inner tie rod I think I'll go with an OEM cause Moog seems to sell only the later model. I think the 1993 has the fine thread on the rack side.
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