OK I've search, but havn't found any concrete information on my problem. I recently purchased a tastefull modified FD.
Intake
Fully Open Exhaust
ASP Large Intercooler
Efini Turbos
Ported Engine with 3mm Seals
Upgraded Fuel Pump-not sure about injectors
Power FC

The thing is after getting a rebuild the previous owner never got the car tunned and was running it on a base map. The car was running rich and the idle was low and rough, but it never died. Then after a few weeks with the car a problem started that whenever the engine reached operating temperatures (75 degrees celcious according to PFC) the idle would drop and the engine dies. The engine starts again, but without my foot on the gas it will just die.

I know getting the car tuned is due soon in the future (closest place is 5hr away), but since this problem wasn't occuring before I was wondering if something else is wrong. Faulty sensor, vaccuum leak, maybe alternator (below 12V at 700 RPM)? Just wondering if I'm goin the right direction?

 

Maybe try raising the idel a bit? see if that helps get it running without your foot on the gas

 

Idle needs to be closer to 1k RPM on ported motor.

 

Check your tps specifications. If that's in spec then I would honestly go to a tuner. It may just be the base map...

 

Ya, I tried raising the the RPM on the commander, but the car won't respond. I'll try the tps later today.

 

Idle is adjusted by way of the butterfly stop screw on the front of the throttle body.

 

The first point of adjustment should, IMO, be the air bleed screw under the elbow.

 

You could be right. It would be nice if he had a wideband so we would know exactly what he should adjust. IMO, the single most valuable diagnosis instrument you should have.

 

How about this dual EGT gauge :

http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=24

I have no idea how it's hooked up to the motor, but I think the wideband sensor is on the downpipe next to the O2 .. right?

 

Agreed. That's the whole reason for the air bleed screw. Airflow fluctuations around a throttle plate when it is closed or near closed cause intake pressure variances too severe to enable precise fueling. The air bleed screw smooths out the intake flow, and enables a less-sensitive method of adjusting idle (although it should be pointed out that turning the screw even a quarter-turn will have a big effect on idle speed).

 

Got it guys....thanks for the help