CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Front (or rear) oil hard line connection leaking sounds most likely to me - either turbo end or motor end. Also check the lines to the oil metering nozzles from the OMP. These are also located in that vicinity. Other common leakage locations are around the motor mount holes - they go through the rear lip of the oil pan. Sealant must be used on the motor mount bolts or you will leak oil. Someone also suggest the oil filler neck flange to block connection. Very easy to install this misaligned.
Some suggestions (some perhaps already noted)
FWIW
Crispy

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

My reman is starting to leak already from the engine mount. And this was with silicone sealant for the bolt etc. Having the engine torque brace probably doesn't help either.

SleepR1

That ETB probably transmits vibrations to the engine mounts. I've had my ETB on the car for a year, and have developed an oil residue between the rotor housings, driver's side--apparently oil is seeping out from between the rotor housings.

In retrospect, the ETB with dampers is probably the best design to minimize vibration transmission to the car and motor. The only damping material we have with solid ETBs is the rubber pad that goes between the ETB mounting plate, and the body.

Had my oilpan resealed this past summer. Used a Staff's Auto 1/4-inch thick stainless steel oil pan brace. It's been effective thus far--oil pan is dry...

http://www.staffsauto.com/

The oil pan brace needs longer 10-mm flange bolts, and longer 17-mm motor mount bolts.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Spekaing of which...I installed an oil pan baffle plate a few weeks ago with moderate success at the track.
Writeup here:
http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/baffle.htm

As for leaky oil pans a mechanic friend of mine noted the following I found VERY interesting. Factory original engines are assembled on a jig such that the engine sections are perfectly aligned along the base. This makes for a seamless mating surface for the oil pan to seal against. The remans on the other hand often come with the engine sections slightly skewed/not perfectly aligned. This results in small "steps" along the bottom of the engine that can cause grief trying to get the oil pan to reseal. Keep this in mind when you install a reman. Or witness leakage after installing a reman engine.

FWIW,
Crispy
PS I'm not buying that reason that the ETB is causing oil seepage from *between* the rotor housings. You have oil seeping there you have bigger problems than those allegedly "caused" by an ETB.

SleepR1

The oil seepage is very light, and doesn't leave any oil puddles on the floor. I'm hoping the ETB is not the cause, because I like the ETB's positive effect on the driveline--nice "Crispy" shifts

SPOautos

I also dont think your engine tq brace would be the problem but if its just residue its prob no big deal anyway.

I can also attest to motor mount oil leaks at the pan. I bought the Mazda OEM sealer to fix my leak and I used the ENTIRE tube on my pan haha. Hell yea it made a mess and squished out a lot but that damn thing duesnt leak any more lol. That Mazda pan sealer is about $30 a tube. The reason its better than most sealers is its very difficult to change the pan without some oil getting on the housings where the pan mounts up. Even if you wipe it off and clean it there are places that oil just keeps running down on the edge of the houseings. That Mazda OEM sealer will still seal to the pan and housings even if some oil gets on it before final curing. Most off the shelf sealants WONT stick to the pan or housing if there is any amount of oil or residue.

The isnt a big deal if your building the engine and the entire engine has been taken apart and cleaned and there isnt any oil to keep running down onto the housings and pan. BUT if your changing the pan on an already running engine you should try the Mazda sealer.

Its worth the $30 to not have to do a pan job a second time.....or a third time like I did uhhh

STEPHEN

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Seriously there is no way that little thing is causing your engine housings to move. The only thing I really noticed when I had mine was some noise from it rattling around. If you had about 500 rwhp then it may be nice for drag launching but IMO its just dead weight that can't seem to shut up

Manny no more talk about retiring the FD its just like last winter when you were selling the FD and getting a Porsche. As soon as the next track event rolls around you'll be taking your students for joy rides in the sleeper I just know it.

SleepR1

Chronos

How did you fix it? How much $$$ did it cost???

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

There is an outfit in Canada that sells a plate to reinforce the oil pan for $150.00. This plate mounts b/w the engine and the oil pan (I think) to prevent flexing. Mazda did the same with the 787B car using a carbon fiber plate for the 4-rotor.

I almost bought it but didn't b/c of the hassle of chasing down the right length bolts. I couldn't understand why they went to all that effort and then leave you to chase down the right length bolt. I couldn't get the right size locally in grade 8 so didn't do it but it might be worth it for some of you who can source the right length.

I was willing to pay for a plug and play deal but they never replied.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

This was years ago when I didn't have the tools or resources to work on the car myself, so I paid a dealership to replace the oil lines. It was damn expensive but I have to admit they didn't screw the job up.

If I remember, the oil lines themselves were cheap (compared to other OEM part prices). It was the labor amount that killed me (which I think the end total was around $900). I'm sure Ray at Malloy could get you a very good price on the oil lines, if that is the problem you are having.

DamonB

I replaced my turbo oil supply hard lines just this past weekend. Both hard lines were like $130 from Mazda Motorsports and it took me a while to install. See what's involved here

Chronos

Thanks a bunch....you guys kick ***! Now, who wants to know about the other 10 or so problems I'm currently having? (not kidding! my car runs like complete **** after about $8000 was put into it)

Too sick to type now though, I'll check into those turbo lines ASAP. Thanks especially for the writeup!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Heck, spit them out! We'll try to knock 'em out one by one.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Sorry if this is a little off topic. Is Water injection legal for track use and at the strip? I tried to search but, couldn't find my answer. Thx

SleepR1

http://www.staffsauto.com/ I had this oil pan brace installed for my oil pan gasket reseal job. BTW that's only $90 US ($150 Canadian) The oil pan brace mounts outside the oil pan, not between the oil pan and motor. The brace is 0.25-inch thick, so it might add "some" torsional stiffness to the motor bottom. Mostly the brace helps to equalize the torque along the bolt holds.

Quote:

I almost bought it but didn't b/c of the hassle of chasing down the right length bolts. I couldn't understand why they went to all that effort and then leave you to chase down the right length bolt. I couldn't get the right size locally in grade 8 so didn't do it but it might be worth it for some of you who can source the right length.

I found longer 10-mm flange bolts at ACE hardware. Greg Staff provided the longer, 19-mm motor mount bolts with the oil pan brace. I recommend installing the Staff's Auto oil pan reinforcer, if you're doing an oil pan reseal job. It's very effective at sealing the oil pan until the next engine replacement.

Chronos

Feeling a bit better today (but not much)

Ok, here goes....*takes deap breath*

The engine vibrates HORRIBLY at certain rpms. The car rattles like crazy while I'm driving it. The rear hatch squeeks like mad. It leaks oil profusely. Oil residue and dirt collects on the rear bumper in great amounts. Boost drops from 10psi to 6psi after transition (not much of a problem given that I can't rev much past there anyways without teeth chattering vibration from the front end). Front left Tire rubs wheel well when taking left hand turns or hitting a small bump or dip in the road. Horrible Horrible screeching when I first turn on the car coming from the engine bay. The main cat is clogged with oil. What sounds like an exhaust leak near the main cat. And last but not least, I have suspision that the car may have frame damage. All this after spending nearly $8000!!

Sleep, you officially have 0% right to complain

SleepR1

Quote:

Sleep, you officially have 0% right to complain

No complaints right now (on the road)...car's running well with 14 lbs of boost and new midpipe! Best of luck with your stuff. Hopefully this fall/winter will give you the opportunity to sort it all out

Chronos

Glad to hear you got everything sorted out with your machine...hopefully I'll get all my problems sorted out too...one at a time...

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Without listening to the car or driving it my guesses:
Driveshaft vibration (was driveshaft marked and installed in the same "rotation" it was when removed?,
water pump bearings shot,
Main eshaft pulley installed incorrectly causing
front torroidal bearings to fail. See here:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/unxhoror.htm
Or possibly some other internal problem. This would not be good.

WD40 on the hatch bumpstops. Add washers under bumpstops to make the hatch close tighter.
But I'd bet the vibration will deminish when you get to the root cause of the engine vibration.
Gotta ask though...Are the wheels/tires balenced properly?

I think we are working on that one

Have to ask the tubo guru's about this one.
Although afriend of mine has some phenomenal info on turbo diagnosis as he went though a similar problem recently: here -
http://www.millsisland.net/twiki/bin...TurboDiagnosis

By the looks of your sig and the aftermarket springs you have installed I'd bet the spring is toast - spring has relaxed over time. Replace the spring(s). GC coilover kit for $599 and worth every penny IMO.

Either water pump seized causing belt to slip, or water pump bearinsg themselves shot...or the aforementioned front eshaft torroidal bearings have been consumed/eaten and you are riding metal on metal at the front end of the eshaft.

If the cat is plugged backpressure could be pushing exhaust out the front flange.

Signs? Indications of repaint? Look for body panel bolts that have had the paint layer broken. Only other real way to tell is to put the car on a frame rack. :-(

FWIW,
Crispy

Chronos

So Crispy's the only one willing to step up to the plate on this one?

Crispy, what makes you think it's the waterpump and not some other pulley? You also think this might be the main cause of the engine vibration hmmm?? That is by far my biggest problem and where all the other problems are coming from I think. If so, I'm willing to take this to a pro and let them do it so I make sure it's fixed %100. What exactly should I tell them when I bring it in? I should probably order the parts I need myself and give them to the guy to install...I guess I should be giving Malloy a call huh?

Tires were balanced when I first got them put on about 10 months ago, I even went to the only balancer in San Diego that had a super high speed tire tester to make sure I didn't find out I got a bad set of tires the hard way, going 140mph The car did sit idle for about 8 months while I was saving up for the massive engine job, do you think they need to be rebalanced? I'm about to replace the fronts so maybe I'll just get them all balanced just to be safe.

ohh, btw did I mention.... Crispy

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

A glutton for punishment more likely. But I really just want to see all happy FD owners

water pump is most likely to fail of all the other pulley driven accessories. But definitely check them all.
When the car is cold and before starting the car pop the hood. Have someone else start the car and with can of WD40 in hand shoot each pulley bearing as best you can. if you hit a pulley, ie. an idler pulley and he squeaking immediately stops..BINGO. If not keep looking. Rule out the easy fixes first. I'm not suggesting that the WP is the problem without a doutb but merely a good place to look.

depends. this kind of issue is very hard to diagnose through email as it could be so many things.

if you aren't comfortable trying to fix it yourself is there no trusted rotary shop in you area you could at least ping for a diagnosis? Same as with any major physical illness..if possible always get a second opinion.

UMMMM HELL YEAH! Tires left sitting for 8 months...thos things prolly have a flat spot the size of.... well...TEXAS! Get those tires rebalenced or replaced as I'd put good money that this is causing the vibration from the drivetrain at speed. For future reference if you plan on letting the car sit for a long perido of time pump those tires up to about 50-60psi. they will be less likely to be out of round when you deflate them and start driving the car again.

So my suggestion get the tire rebalanced ASAP. then have at those pulleys when they are screeching with a can of WD40.
HTH,
Crispy

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

The main cat is clogged with oil. What sounds like an exhaust leak near the main cat.

Well that explains the boost problem

Chronos

Yes, it does....the rest however

*UPDATE THIS WEEKEND*

DamonB

To check and see if any pulley is the source of the problem just remove the belts and start the car for a brief moment. It will be obvious then.

Just about every FD I have ever seen has the belts over tightened. In stock form the belts wrap very far around each pulley and so it doesn't take much tension on the belt to ensure proper running. The water pump especially is prone to having its bearings wear out quickly from too much belt tension as this puts tremendous side loads on the components. Basically the looser you run the belts the less strain you put on all the bearings of the accessories.

Anyone without an airpump will have the belt barely touching the water pump pulley. In that case they should last nearly forever