FD Road Race Car - Feedback Welcome -
12-11-14, 09:34 AM
#51
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I have a V8 in mine.. So recurring engine costs are very low, trans is bulletproof, diff is bulletproof, and cooling the NA V8 powertrain easier than a turbo rotary. It cost a bit more up front to set it up right. 2500 track miles on it so far, but should be able to do 25k or more.
Granted I don't have an aero package on the car yet, nor do I run race slicks, just DOT R tires. The car is ran so much I don't have the time or energy to constantly swap tires, brakes and do maintenance.
I'm still optimizing the package I have anyway... So it is still a lot of fun.
Granted I don't have an aero package on the car yet, nor do I run race slicks, just DOT R tires. The car is ran so much I don't have the time or energy to constantly swap tires, brakes and do maintenance.
I'm still optimizing the package I have anyway... So it is still a lot of fun.
Again I think the best one can hope for is a full season without worries then really go over it during the winter. Rinse and repeat.
As far as I know the competitive c5 vettes usually have lots of cooling upgrades and still lose engines and transmissions but they are of course much more reliable than a turbo blown rotary making 350 to 400 HP and they damn well should be.
High power rotary guys are masochist and derive tremendous pleasure from blowing the doors off modern supercars and later collecting 8 guys from the paddock to push there blown car up onto the trailer. We get our juice from the highs and the lows similar to a high stakes gambler. We are continuously creating memories both good and bad LOL
There's also a lot of joy in figuring out ways to keep that little engine rotating along with the over worked trans, diff, chassis etc......
I've said this many times but if I go big block it would be in a vette, viper etc.... Putting a v8 into the FD is a super cool thing because the chassis is awesome but the vette chassis is better and what I love about the FD is the whole package.
The fact that my old rotary hooptie was 12th out of 41 cars this year at the UTCC is COOL! If I was running a V8 it's no big deal and a decent finish would be expected. That's like a dropping a v8 into an e30 m3 or in other words it should be FAST!
12-11-14, 10:32 AM
#52
Nothing is bullet proof if it's on a race track
Again I think the best one can hope for is a full season without worries then really go over it during the winter. Rinse and repeat.
As far as I know the competitive c5 vettes usually have lots of cooling upgrades and still lose engines and transmissions but they are of course much more reliable than a turbo blown rotary making 350 to 400 HP and they damn well should be.
High power rotary guys are masochist and derive tremendous pleasure from blowing the doors off modern supercars and later collecting 8 guys from the paddock to push there blown car up onto the trailer. We get our juice from the highs and the lows similar to a high stakes gambler. We are continuously creating memories both good and bad LOL
There's also a lot of joy in figuring out ways to keep that little engine rotating along with the over worked trans, diff, chassis etc......
I've said this many times but if I go big block it would be in a vette, viper etc.... Putting a v8 into the FD is a super cool thing because the chassis is awesome but the vette chassis is better and what I love about the FD is the whole package.
The fact that my old rotary hooptie was 12th out of 41 cars this year at the UTCC is COOL! If I was running a V8 it's no big deal and a decent finish would be expected. That's like a dropping a v8 into an e30 m3 or in other words it should be FAST!
Again I think the best one can hope for is a full season without worries then really go over it during the winter. Rinse and repeat.
As far as I know the competitive c5 vettes usually have lots of cooling upgrades and still lose engines and transmissions but they are of course much more reliable than a turbo blown rotary making 350 to 400 HP and they damn well should be.
High power rotary guys are masochist and derive tremendous pleasure from blowing the doors off modern supercars and later collecting 8 guys from the paddock to push there blown car up onto the trailer. We get our juice from the highs and the lows similar to a high stakes gambler. We are continuously creating memories both good and bad LOL
There's also a lot of joy in figuring out ways to keep that little engine rotating along with the over worked trans, diff, chassis etc......
I've said this many times but if I go big block it would be in a vette, viper etc.... Putting a v8 into the FD is a super cool thing because the chassis is awesome but the vette chassis is better and what I love about the FD is the whole package.
The fact that my old rotary hooptie was 12th out of 41 cars this year at the UTCC is COOL! If I was running a V8 it's no big deal and a decent finish would be expected. That's like a dropping a v8 into an e30 m3 or in other words it should be FAST!
I know the brakes is more then likely much better then the stock FD brakes.
12-11-14, 11:10 AM
#53
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if you do not mind would you like to elaborate a bit more on this as I am curious since I've never driven a C5+ vette . what about the Vette chassis makes it better ? easier to put power down ? better turn in ? more stable ? better grip?
I know the brakes is more then likely much better then the stock FD brakes.
I know the brakes is more then likely much better then the stock FD brakes.
I think the big thing with the c5 was the hydroforming or using water to shape the frame which added to the rigidity but again it's the whole platform that just gets better and better. The C5 is more aerodynamic, can fit bigger tires and most importantly the chassis is already developed to house the big torque v8 you just add bolt ons and there are tons of economical bolts ons available so it just doesn't make any sense to me to put a v8 in an FD. The c7 Z06 is a complete monster and it's going to dominate in TT and racing but you will have to be a frikken astronaut to pilot the damn thing.
12-11-14, 01:05 PM
#54
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true. the part i removed was well put too 
for examples, we just finished running our 4th 25 hours of thunderhill, and if you want to ruin a car, this is the race to do (its also fun, and crazy, plus you can run against some big name people, like Mazda)
every car has problems when you go racing, the porsche is expensive, honda can't keep engines together (even the factory), the BMW's in an long race just fall apart (the guys next to us were adding 3 quarts of oil every hour, and the diff was held in by tie straps). the integra we have run, needs to literally be duct taped together to finish. the more exotic stuff like the radicals usually don't even finish, they hit a bump or a miata, and are just broken
we ran a miata, and the alternator belt failed early on, so we were in the pits a lot adding water....
soo i guess in the scheme of things, the FD at least has a chassis and suspension that is engineered to take the abuse (to a point) at the track.
for examples, we just finished running our 4th 25 hours of thunderhill, and if you want to ruin a car, this is the race to do (its also fun, and crazy, plus you can run against some big name people, like Mazda)
every car has problems when you go racing, the porsche is expensive, honda can't keep engines together (even the factory), the BMW's in an long race just fall apart (the guys next to us were adding 3 quarts of oil every hour, and the diff was held in by tie straps). the integra we have run, needs to literally be duct taped together to finish. the more exotic stuff like the radicals usually don't even finish, they hit a bump or a miata, and are just broken
we ran a miata, and the alternator belt failed early on, so we were in the pits a lot adding water....
soo i guess in the scheme of things, the FD at least has a chassis and suspension that is engineered to take the abuse (to a point) at the track.
12-11-14, 03:05 PM
#56
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I used to run with THSCC but they stopped having TTs included at there events.
Bastards on the west coast have all the damn fun
12-11-14, 03:57 PM
#57
Who do you run time trials with?
On the east coast it's hard to find 5 cars for TT2 which is just power and weight limited and the top 3 drivers will absolutely be on fresh fresh hoos usually A6s.
I typically drive with PCA in the instructor group and 90% of the cars are on hoos.
No doubt something like the Dunlops or the NT01s is a smart play if you have some good people to compete against and you are happy driving with less grip.
What turbo kit are you using and how much PSI?
Glad to hear the carbo diff is more durable that's what I currently have but also added a cooler after noticing I break the fluid down in any FD I drive and it starts to leak out of the drain bolt. Stock diff cover typically just tightening the bolt will stop the leak but the current diff has one of those greddy covers and that bitch would not seal.
No doubt the keys for keeping expenses down are running cheap rubber, use quality upgrades and upgrading all things that need cooling and lastly and most importantly keep the power down.
One thing that's really important to consider is that the 1st 5 years of most serious track folks (people who go 10 plus times a year) the driver is still learning to go fast and during that time he or she is on not that hard on the equipment. Once a driver learns to get the most out of his equipment that equipment starts to break apart. Even if it's just 2 seconds a lap faster because those 2 seconds are extremely hard on the car.
On the east coast it's hard to find 5 cars for TT2 which is just power and weight limited and the top 3 drivers will absolutely be on fresh fresh hoos usually A6s.
I typically drive with PCA in the instructor group and 90% of the cars are on hoos.
No doubt something like the Dunlops or the NT01s is a smart play if you have some good people to compete against and you are happy driving with less grip.
What turbo kit are you using and how much PSI?
Glad to hear the carbo diff is more durable that's what I currently have but also added a cooler after noticing I break the fluid down in any FD I drive and it starts to leak out of the drain bolt. Stock diff cover typically just tightening the bolt will stop the leak but the current diff has one of those greddy covers and that bitch would not seal.
No doubt the keys for keeping expenses down are running cheap rubber, use quality upgrades and upgrading all things that need cooling and lastly and most importantly keep the power down.
One thing that's really important to consider is that the 1st 5 years of most serious track folks (people who go 10 plus times a year) the driver is still learning to go fast and during that time he or she is on not that hard on the equipment. Once a driver learns to get the most out of his equipment that equipment starts to break apart. Even if it's just 2 seconds a lap faster because those 2 seconds are extremely hard on the car.
Recently I had been running the HKS cast manifold w/ a turblown TD61 1.0A/R. Super reliable setup at 14-14.5psi. I am in the process of switching over to an EFR. I feel confident that with some added aero work and upgraded suspension I will be able to break a few lap records for my time attack class. The car has been performing well given my "budget" for racing and I push her pretty hard. I am about half a second off pace on average.
Once my budget expands, I will progress to semi-slicks and eventually slicks. However its not just the tires that differentiate what class you are in. When you bump up a class the rules will allow for more power, more aero, more chassis reinforcement, lexan, race gas, etc. The $$ difference to be competitive in higher classes are exponentially higher... but I guess so is the fun
Here are the class rules for GTA for reference.
2014 Rules - Global Time Attack
Secret to keeping my engine reliable? I dont think there is much of a secret other than having the proper supporting mods, enough fuel, clean oil and awareness of temps, fuel level, etc. I use AN for all lines running in high stress or high heat areas. Know where the cars weak points are and address them. I usually add a few gallons of race gas as a safe guard when racing (its against my time attack class rules but I usually get away with it) and always premix w/ my working OMP. I am pretty OCD about temps .
12-11-14, 08:01 PM
#61
Here is my lousy track vid thread which is in dire need of a serious update. It does have some nice pics tho.
https://www.rx7club.com/racing-kills...ideos-1069880/
12-12-14, 10:15 AM
#62
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For time trials I run with either Redline or Global Time attack. GTA is a bit more competitive and their events are just massive. (Sorry east coasters, registration also costs 1/2 as much!)
Recently I had been running the HKS cast manifold w/ a turblown TD61 1.0A/R. Super reliable setup at 14-14.5psi. I am in the process of switching over to an EFR. I feel confident that with some added aero work and upgraded suspension I will be able to break a few lap records for my time attack class. The car has been performing well given my "budget" for racing and I push her pretty hard. I am about half a second off pace on average.
Once my budget expands, I will progress to semi-slicks and eventually slicks. However its not just the tires that differentiate what class you are in. When you bump up a class the rules will allow for more power, more aero, more chassis reinforcement, lexan, race gas, etc. The $$ difference to be competitive in higher classes are exponentially higher... but I guess so is the fun
Here are the class rules for GTA for reference.
2014 Rules - Global Time Attack
Secret to keeping my engine reliable? I dont think there is much of a secret other than having the proper supporting mods, enough fuel, clean oil and awareness of temps, fuel level, etc. I use AN for all lines running in high stress or high heat areas. Know where the cars weak points are and address them. I usually add a few gallons of race gas as a safe guard when racing (its against my time attack class rules but I usually get away with it) and always premix w/ my working OMP. I am pretty OCD about temps .
Recently I had been running the HKS cast manifold w/ a turblown TD61 1.0A/R. Super reliable setup at 14-14.5psi. I am in the process of switching over to an EFR. I feel confident that with some added aero work and upgraded suspension I will be able to break a few lap records for my time attack class. The car has been performing well given my "budget" for racing and I push her pretty hard. I am about half a second off pace on average.
Once my budget expands, I will progress to semi-slicks and eventually slicks. However its not just the tires that differentiate what class you are in. When you bump up a class the rules will allow for more power, more aero, more chassis reinforcement, lexan, race gas, etc. The $$ difference to be competitive in higher classes are exponentially higher... but I guess so is the fun
Here are the class rules for GTA for reference.
2014 Rules - Global Time Attack
Secret to keeping my engine reliable? I dont think there is much of a secret other than having the proper supporting mods, enough fuel, clean oil and awareness of temps, fuel level, etc. I use AN for all lines running in high stress or high heat areas. Know where the cars weak points are and address them. I usually add a few gallons of race gas as a safe guard when racing (its against my time attack class rules but I usually get away with it) and always premix w/ my working OMP. I am pretty OCD about temps .
I ditched the OMP and now premix heavily hoping to fix my apex seal warp issue which is what's been hurting my engines the most.
My oil temps could go up to about 230 but hopefully now that I'm back to oil and water turbo that won't be a problem anymore. Have BIG 25 row ducted coolers. Never have to worry about water it's never even seen 190.
Again my big issues:
Apex seals warping: hopefully heavy premix will allow this engine to go longer. I'm also using some ALS type seals that Eccentric Performance donated (thanks again jonathan)
Diff and trans temps (now have coolers)
Turbo kits cracking and falling apart. Have gone back to my used HKS brick/cast exhaust manifold (they last about twice as long as tubulars) so hopefully next year I'll make it through the year without worrying about the exhaust manifold. Big ball bearing turbo with HUGE back side so it should run cooler but torque will suffer. Hopefully this turbo will make it through next year (like the manifold it's used though because I'm cheap bastard and you can't beat free so fingers crossed)
Good luck next year and I'll look forward to following your vid thread
12-12-14, 11:21 AM
#63
Understood
I ditched the OMP and now premix heavily hoping to fix my apex seal warp issue which is what's been hurting my engines the most.
My oil temps could go up to about 230 but hopefully now that I'm back to oil and water turbo that won't be a problem anymore. Have BIG 25 row ducted coolers. Never have to worry about water it's never even seen 190.
Again my big issues:
Apex seals warping: hopefully heavy premix will allow this engine to go longer. I'm also using some ALS type seals that Eccentric Performance donated (thanks again jonathan)
Diff and trans temps (now have coolers)
Turbo kits cracking and falling apart. Have gone back to my used HKS brick/cast exhaust manifold (they last about twice as long as tubulars) so hopefully next year I'll make it through the year without worrying about the exhaust manifold. Big ball bearing turbo with HUGE back side so it should run cooler but torque will suffer. Hopefully this turbo will make it through next year (like the manifold it's used though because I'm cheap bastard and you can't beat free so fingers crossed)
Good luck next year and I'll look forward to following your vid thread
I ditched the OMP and now premix heavily hoping to fix my apex seal warp issue which is what's been hurting my engines the most.
My oil temps could go up to about 230 but hopefully now that I'm back to oil and water turbo that won't be a problem anymore. Have BIG 25 row ducted coolers. Never have to worry about water it's never even seen 190.
Again my big issues:
Apex seals warping: hopefully heavy premix will allow this engine to go longer. I'm also using some ALS type seals that Eccentric Performance donated (thanks again jonathan)
Diff and trans temps (now have coolers)
Turbo kits cracking and falling apart. Have gone back to my used HKS brick/cast exhaust manifold (they last about twice as long as tubulars) so hopefully next year I'll make it through the year without worrying about the exhaust manifold. Big ball bearing turbo with HUGE back side so it should run cooler but torque will suffer. Hopefully this turbo will make it through next year (like the manifold it's used though because I'm cheap bastard and you can't beat free so fingers crossed)
Good luck next year and I'll look forward to following your vid thread
12-12-14, 06:08 PM
#64
I was talking to Geoff at Full Race about the BW S300SX line's lack of water cooling.
His response:
"believe it or not - watercooling does nothing while an engine is running. the temp difference from water in to water out is only 1.5 degrees fahrenheit. Watercooling's job is *only* to cool the turbo by circulating water after the engine has been shut off."
So as far as running cooler on the track you might not see a difference.
Speaking of Full Race...you might want to look into their manifold. It's constructed very well and made of thick wall schedule 40 stainless. Geoff says he has never had a manifold come back cracked. I believe they are warranted for life. This will likely allow you to put your manifold troubles to rest.
I too was running the HKS cast mani because I didn't want to deal with dropping money on a nice tubular piece only to have it crack. That was until I found out about Geoff's manifolds.
E85 may be a bit of a pain in the ***, but its a great way to significantly lower temps...not to mention the detonation resistance.
His response:
"believe it or not - watercooling does nothing while an engine is running. the temp difference from water in to water out is only 1.5 degrees fahrenheit. Watercooling's job is *only* to cool the turbo by circulating water after the engine has been shut off."
So as far as running cooler on the track you might not see a difference.
Speaking of Full Race...you might want to look into their manifold. It's constructed very well and made of thick wall schedule 40 stainless. Geoff says he has never had a manifold come back cracked. I believe they are warranted for life. This will likely allow you to put your manifold troubles to rest.
I too was running the HKS cast mani because I didn't want to deal with dropping money on a nice tubular piece only to have it crack. That was until I found out about Geoff's manifolds.
E85 may be a bit of a pain in the ***, but its a great way to significantly lower temps...not to mention the detonation resistance.
12-12-14, 07:28 PM
#65
Rotary Enthusiast
I am loving this thread... I was just wondering whether to post a thread on race gas.
My car was built by the previous owner for time attack – it's very interesting to see how much more needs to be done for road racing. The answer seems to be – a lot at the higher classes. I'm quite happy running about 320 hp on stock twins.
My car was built by the previous owner for time attack – it's very interesting to see how much more needs to be done for road racing. The answer seems to be – a lot at the higher classes. I'm quite happy running about 320 hp on stock twins.
12-12-14, 07:29 PM
#66
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I was talking to Geoff at Full Race about the BW S300SX line's lack of water cooling.
His response:
"believe it or not - watercooling does nothing while an engine is running. the temp difference from water in to water out is only 1.5 degrees fahrenheit. Watercooling's job is *only* to cool the turbo by circulating water after the engine has been shut off."
So as far as running cooler on the track you might not see a difference.
Speaking of Full Race...you might want to look into their manifold. It's constructed very well and made of thick wall schedule 40 stainless. Geoff says he has never had a manifold come back cracked. I believe they are warranted for life. This will likely allow you to put your manifold troubles to rest.
I too was running the HKS cast mani because I didn't want to deal with dropping money on a nice tubular piece only to have it crack. That was until I found out about Geoff's manifolds.
E85 may be a bit of a pain in the ***, but its a great way to significantly lower temps...not to mention the detonation resistance.
His response:
"believe it or not - watercooling does nothing while an engine is running. the temp difference from water in to water out is only 1.5 degrees fahrenheit. Watercooling's job is *only* to cool the turbo by circulating water after the engine has been shut off."
So as far as running cooler on the track you might not see a difference.
Speaking of Full Race...you might want to look into their manifold. It's constructed very well and made of thick wall schedule 40 stainless. Geoff says he has never had a manifold come back cracked. I believe they are warranted for life. This will likely allow you to put your manifold troubles to rest.
I too was running the HKS cast mani because I didn't want to deal with dropping money on a nice tubular piece only to have it crack. That was until I found out about Geoff's manifolds.
E85 may be a bit of a pain in the ***, but its a great way to significantly lower temps...not to mention the detonation resistance.
I heard the exact same thing when I switched from my water and oil t04e to my oil only t04e and my oil temps suffered. Then switched to a t04r oil only and my oil temps suffered.
As I recall my t04e water and oil turbo the oil temps didn't climb over 220 but I may just be mistaken.
Also the oil only t04e only lasted about 1 year before excessive shaft play was causing issues and the original one was still good after 3 years of use only the housing was jacked up.
Will definitely know during the 1st 80 plus degree track event and post my findings.
Those shop guys also swear you'll never damage an exhaust manifold. If a tubular manifold last me 2 years it's doing AWESOME! Bottomline: road racing is a whole different animal.
12-12-14, 07:31 PM
#67
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If I had easy access I'd be all over it and it would greatly reduce my exhaust temps which would extend the life of my turbo kits.
12-12-14, 08:13 PM
#68
Senior Member
Fritz
I built a 321 ss manifold for the 3 rotor in 2007 and it has never failed in hours and hours of flat out 30-60 min races. At 16-20 psi . Its now 8 years old and still fine. I did plane the surfaces last year. I know a lot of rotary guys build from sch 40 for the street and they have never failed, but I am curious if they would stand up to the extra abuse of the track.
My builder tunes differently for the track then the street, especially with timing. I Think he runs more on the track. I wonder if you need more ( or less) timing to keep your apex seals straight. We've never had that problem with the seals.
I built a 321 ss manifold for the 3 rotor in 2007 and it has never failed in hours and hours of flat out 30-60 min races. At 16-20 psi . Its now 8 years old and still fine. I did plane the surfaces last year. I know a lot of rotary guys build from sch 40 for the street and they have never failed, but I am curious if they would stand up to the extra abuse of the track.
My builder tunes differently for the track then the street, especially with timing. I Think he runs more on the track. I wonder if you need more ( or less) timing to keep your apex seals straight. We've never had that problem with the seals.
12-12-14, 08:16 PM
#69
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again, this is true. it is very for people to wrap their heads around it for some reason too.
one of our sponsors used to do IDRC hondas and we were shooting the breeze one time and we discovered their whole season was 15 minutes of run time, and they expect to rebuild the engine in the middle.
in road racing 15 minutes is the WARM UP. we then go on to run like 4 HOURS a weekend, and that is just a sprint. there are 2 and 3 HOUR enduros, and if you're lucky you can do a 24 or 25.
or if you wanna think about it another way, thunderhill is 15 turns, one lap is like doing 7-8 dyno pulls every two minutes, for 15 minutes.
so road racing demands a more conservative build than even a street car in some ways.
one of our sponsors used to do IDRC hondas and we were shooting the breeze one time and we discovered their whole season was 15 minutes of run time, and they expect to rebuild the engine in the middle.
in road racing 15 minutes is the WARM UP. we then go on to run like 4 HOURS a weekend, and that is just a sprint. there are 2 and 3 HOUR enduros, and if you're lucky you can do a 24 or 25.
or if you wanna think about it another way, thunderhill is 15 turns, one lap is like doing 7-8 dyno pulls every two minutes, for 15 minutes.
so road racing demands a more conservative build than even a street car in some ways.
12-13-14, 10:09 AM
#70
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Fritz
I built a 321 ss manifold for the 3 rotor in 2007 and it has never failed in hours and hours of flat out 30-60 min races. At 16-20 psi . Its now 8 years old and still fine. I did plane the surfaces last year. I know a lot of rotary guys build from sch 40 for the street and they have never failed, but I am curious if they would stand up to the extra abuse of the track.
My builder tunes differently for the track then the street, especially with timing. I Think he runs more on the track. I wonder if you need more ( or less) timing to keep your apex seals straight. We've never had that problem with the seals.
I built a 321 ss manifold for the 3 rotor in 2007 and it has never failed in hours and hours of flat out 30-60 min races. At 16-20 psi . Its now 8 years old and still fine. I did plane the surfaces last year. I know a lot of rotary guys build from sch 40 for the street and they have never failed, but I am curious if they would stand up to the extra abuse of the track.
My builder tunes differently for the track then the street, especially with timing. I Think he runs more on the track. I wonder if you need more ( or less) timing to keep your apex seals straight. We've never had that problem with the seals.
If you are you have aggressive timing but also your exhaust temps will be a lot lower on race gas.
Yep I'm sure a thicker better quality material would really help and I may have Ray at PFS build a manifold for me out of the thick heavy stuff but again I try to maintain a fairly conservative budget.
12-13-14, 10:17 AM
#71
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again, this is true. it is very for people to wrap their heads around it for some reason too.
one of our sponsors used to do IDRC hondas and we were shooting the breeze one time and we discovered their whole season was 15 minutes of run time, and they expect to rebuild the engine in the middle.
in road racing 15 minutes is the WARM UP. we then go on to run like 4 HOURS a weekend, and that is just a sprint. there are 2 and 3 HOUR enduros, and if you're lucky you can do a 24 or 25.
or if you wanna think about it another way, thunderhill is 15 turns, one lap is like doing 7-8 dyno pulls every two minutes, for 15 minutes.
so road racing demands a more conservative build than even a street car in some ways.
one of our sponsors used to do IDRC hondas and we were shooting the breeze one time and we discovered their whole season was 15 minutes of run time, and they expect to rebuild the engine in the middle.
in road racing 15 minutes is the WARM UP. we then go on to run like 4 HOURS a weekend, and that is just a sprint. there are 2 and 3 HOUR enduros, and if you're lucky you can do a 24 or 25.
or if you wanna think about it another way, thunderhill is 15 turns, one lap is like doing 7-8 dyno pulls every two minutes, for 15 minutes.
so road racing demands a more conservative build than even a street car in some ways.
The other thing that's super hard to understand is realizing that just increasing your pace 2 seconds a lap can double the abuse on the car.
I'm driving the same car pretty much and my lap times have gone from a 2.08 (lap record) in 2006 to a 2.02 today. So I'm easily 3 times as hard on the car as I used to be and wasn't exactly taking it easy before LOL. Perspective on that lap time for a 2 rotor FD. The fastest time I know of other than my 2.02 is a 2.06 that eric campbell ran. I suspect Pete will run some quick laps this year and also expect eric to go a lot lower but I'll be happy to shave just 1 second.
12-13-14, 09:45 PM
#74
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its a long story, but we ended up having to reengineer the entire fuel cell during the race, the stupid pump kept sucking itself to the magic box...
12-14-14, 10:01 AM
#75
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the miata we ran the 25 with was pretty slow, as its an enduro, and we didn't change brakes, and we could have run the whole thing on the one set of tires too. we did put a second set on, but mostly because it was the middle of the night and we were in fixing the damn fuel cell (again).
its a long story, but we ended up having to reengineer the entire fuel cell during the race, the stupid pump kept sucking itself to the magic box...
its a long story, but we ended up having to reengineer the entire fuel cell during the race, the stupid pump kept sucking itself to the magic box...