What are you guys using for circuit breakers when relocating your battery to inside the car? My battery is in the rear bin and doesn't have a breaker.

 

150 amp CB! Available at Autozone!

 

I'm using the one in moconnor's thread. Link to thread is in the FAQ fyi.

 

I'm using a Stinger 150 amp breaker (#SCB150)

 

I went to the site Moconner referenced for buying the stinger breaker. He used the 150 amp shown above: SCB150

But they also make a SGB150, it looks just the same. Does anyone know the difference? I couldnt find a comparison.

 

I went the "Rich Man's Route" and did the Stinger products...you can save a decent amount of money going generic. Been very pleased with breaker...nice to be able to power off everything to work with the press of a button in the rear bin.

 

Ditto that. I also used the stinger breaker and LOVE the ease of the button/switch disconnect/connect functionality.

There is something to be said about using quality electrical products. I despise tracking down electrical gremlins (bastards are cunning and deceitful) and at least by using quality parts I am helping myself out as much as possible. I have fixed far too many crappy stereo installs that were done with inferior products as well as install attentiveness. That being said, make sure to use good products and take your time. Running wire is not glorious and no one will ever see it. If you do it right, the best part is you will only see it once...

I am unsure the difference in those two breakers. Just give stinger a call and I am sure they can explain it.

 

Where did you see SGB150? SCB150 obviously stands for Stinger Circuit Breaker, so I can't imagine them marketing an "SGB150", probably a typo on a website.

 

Seems like Stinger is for audio "enthusiast" suckers that just slap their name on everything. I believe Bussmann (Cooper Industries) is where they get theirs. Please correct me if im wrong and apologize if Stinger does in fact build or design their own stuff.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...T%20150%20AMP/
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...T%20150%20AMP/
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-Hi-Am...1083241&sr=8-1

 

it's on the link in the moconner build. I doubt it's a typo because there are both SCB and SGP for each amperage level (i.e. 50, 100, 150, etc). and different prices for each.

 

This

and

This http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ry_Disconnects

 

What size cable are you using to run forward??

 

I ran 0 gauge don't remember the brand name.

 

Another suggestion. I used the braided power wire and ground wire (I got mine for free from a client...I know Stinger sells some but the braided stuff is $$$) but I believe Evot23 will also attest that it makes everything sooooooooooooooooooooo much easier since it it incredibly flexible.

 

you can use a 4 gauge, it'll be plenty. You can also use welders cable..not as flexible as the braided audio power cable but better than regular batt cable

 

I also have the Stinger, under the hood.

So easy to disconnect the electrical system.

You can buy the same thing from Waytek Wire for $23.00.

It doesn't say Stinger on in it, but the products from the company have been very good in my experience. It would not be surprising to learn that both breakers come from the same factory.

I purchased about 100 weather proof connectors from Waytek for about half the price I could find them anywhere else.

 

Did you put a breaker at each end, or just at the battery?

 

Just the battery. Here is the schematic from my write-up. You can ignore the distribution block and fuse block if you are not running those.

 

I have a SGB150 that i need to install. I tried looking for the SCB but couldn't find it in stock anywhere when i was looking for it.

 

I put the breaker on the ground cable - no need to disconnect any cables from the battery that way.

With the circuit breaker on the positive cable there is more risk of shorting the battery to ground via the positive battery terminal, even if the breaker is open.

 

At first glance I thought using a breaker at the battery only left the system with no protection when the car was running. Further investigation shows I was wrong because the alternator current passes through the MAIN fuse in the Fusebox that was attached directly to the battery post on the original system.

This fuse box is where I am having issues. moconnor - I read your write-up and looked at the photos, but I can't tell out how you secured the fusebox you removed from the battery post. Where/how did you mount it? I have several ideas, but none looks very pleasing to me.

 

I just ordered the marine version yesterday. I ordered it because it has more secure terminals and a nicer switch than the standard version:


Why did you put it on the ground side, I don't see why there'd be more risk of a short one way vs. the other. Also, most racing rules require it to be on the power side, does anyone know why?

 

^Because components can still be energized through an alternate ground. However, there is only one positive source while the engine is off.

 

I used to have a 200 amp breaker similar to those shown above. I found that there was an excessive voltage drop across its contacts and opted to go with a standard 175A fuse instead. Problem solved.

 

glad i ran across this thread cause i wondered too...